Small Nor’easter coming (10/13/10) update

Just kidding ! No. 41597 from, a nice wave at LaHinch Ireland
Just kidding ! No. 41597 from, a nice wave at LaHinch Ireland.

Hey it looks like we have Nor’easter coming that maybe hits on Saturday with full strength on Monday.

Size and conditions I can’t say too much, except that I wouldn’t expect anything bigger than waist-high during the peak of the swell, and no offshore winds as it looks right now.

Saturday night maybe something ridable.  Sunday, thigh to waist with 10 to 15 mph on shores, Monday the strength of the swell peaks but looking like thigh high with 8 to 10 on the winds, onshore.

Not much more to say,  the Bahamas will get a little more than us, but not much, it’s mostly looking to stay off the coast by 500 miles or so where the full strength will be. The moving ocean swell chart below shows how the swell looks at 7 Am Monday morning.

Moving swell chart showing size and position for Sunday morning, 10/17
Moving swell chart showing size and position for Sunday morning, 10/17

Oh well.

Anonymous 😦

Missed the Report, my bad (10/13/10)

My apologies for not paying attention to the swell that came in for Otto on Friday (the 8th) and Saturday (the 9th).

I will mention, that we had a shoulder to head high day on Friday and thigh to occasional chest high morning on Saturday.

I did surf Friday at the end of the street (when it was shoulder to head-high further south), and caught some thigh to waist-high waves that were perfect glass, pretty fun with some workable walls and the last half of the ride was a nose-rider if you wanted to make it to the sand.

Saturday morning,  I got a little wise, and hit a mega-high-tide break, surfed from 8:30 till 12:30, and it was perfection with as much power as you can ask for.  Crazy thing was it was only breaking out 100 yards, and yet the rides (for a longboard) many of which exceeded 100 yard rides.   I counted quite a few 8 and 10 second rides for other people.

Totally workable walls for my 10.0 longboard, and the shortboarders I was surfing with were nailing just as many waves.  Barrelling right and left, with quite a few squatted barrells to be seen.  Got a couple myself, with a cracked rib to show for it 🙂

Anyhow,  I learned that no where was it breaking Saturday morning (which included Hightowers, Seagull, Hangers, 2nd Light, O-club) , unless you were out after 11 or 11:30, or unless you were at a mega-high-tide break.  I got lucky and checked one at 8:15 am, and it was cranking.  Funny thing was, one of my buddies that went with me was in a group at the same break that only got a few rides, but then 150 yards south, 5 or 6 other people and myself had at least 30 or more killer rides,  literally until you were exhausted.  2 longboarders and I think 5 shortboarders.

It really made a huge difference to be at a mega-high-tide only break on Saturday,  Friday I don’t know cause I didn’t get out until 11 am anyhow.

Anyhow, just thought I’d pass that one along.  Moral – know the very best high tide break.