The swell for this weekend has been acting like a Black Friday shopper, not making up it’s mind, so is it going to deliver?  I have the 2 charts below, Swell and then Period chart for Monday at 6 am (although, tuesday looks to be the best surf day), but the Monday Period chart, shows that it is a fairly organized swell, very close to a ground swell with a fetch that goes much wider than the map of the U.S.

Swell-Size-Chart-for-Mon-06-20-16-6am-EST - Compliments of Magicseaweed.com for imageryI believe Tuesday is going to the most fun day.  Not the glassiest, but nice size and semi-clean.

The model has finally been holding for 2 days in a row now.  It’s pretty strange to have a NE swell this time of year, let alone a NE swell with this steep of a North angle to it.

 

 

 

 

Period-Chart-for-Mon-06-20-16-6am-EST - Compliments to Magicseaweed.com for imagery :)The Cape and the Pier will be blocked out quite a bit, but by Tuesday, we should all have something to ride, and I believe down South , in Satellite Beach, we can expect solid chest to head high waves, with winds which are hard to call yet, but probably slower than the charts say.  For now, I’m calling 5-10 mph ENE winds, and pretty decent form.  There is only one 2ndary swell behind the major swell, and it is aiming straight East, with less than a foot at 10 seconds, so it shouldn’t be doing anything funky to the form:)


Yep, 3 days now, the models show Thursday with a Ground/background swell coming with rib to chest high waves and glassy.

The video below is actually a foot or two  smaller on the face, than what I expect tomorrow, but it was nice and glassy.  The surfer is my buddy Mike Melito.

The Cape will be blocked out somewhat from this swell.  The Pier should be waist high, and getting bigger, the further south you go.

As it stands, it’s a NE swell, with SW winds in the 8-12 mph range, picking up as the morning progresses.  High tide is around 8 am, which is not optimal, but pick your spot, and it should be fun.  Water temp is down to around 73 from 76 last week, so skin it or vest it.


Our incoming windswell for Friday and Saturday should give us some fun clean waves, maybe glassy.

SWELL-PERIOD-CHART-MAGICSEAWEED.COM-FOR-FRIDAY-04-01-16-6AM

SWELL-PERIOD-CHART-MAGICSEAWEED.COM-FOR-FRIDAY-04-01-16-6AM

Friday morning,  I give a better than 70% chance of being waist to chest high and semi-glass to glass.  Winds , see wind chart below, should be blowing 5-7 mph SSW from 2 in the morning till daybreak, so it should clean things up, and be semi-glass to glassy , for down south only.  Up at the Pier, it should clean, and if the winds clock SW instead, then it would be glassy everywhere:)

Saturday morning, looks to be thigh to waist high, and semi-glassy down south with some texture, as the winds are looking stronger now, then they were the last 3 days for Saturday AM.

To the left is the SWELL PERIOD CHART (not size chart), just to show you the direction and size of the low system.  It is mostly an Easterly swell, with a little south 2ndary, and a weird NE 2ndary swell.  My hope, is the two mini swells will even each other out, LOL.

WINDS-FRIDAY-APRIL-01-2016

WINDS-FRIDAY-APRIL-01-2016

The next chart is the Weather.com WIND CHART for Friday morning.


It has hit the 120 buoy at 16 seconds, and seems to have first hit around 3 or 4 pm today.

Friday morning could be North winds, or offshore, as the winds are very light, and since land cools off quicker than sea, sometimes it blows a little offshore from that when the prevailing swell winds are very light.

Saturday is looking like the better day, with the same size but a better chance of straight offshore winds for 3 hours or so in the morning.

Sunday maybe waist high and fun.

I dropped this video in as some encouragement for tomorrow and Saturday:)


What size and shape can we expect?  Friday morning, has a 2-4 foot ground swell in the 13-14 second period range.  Should be waist to chest at the Pier, and waist to shoulder high possibility in Satellite Beach. Winds show offshore for the first half of the morning.  I will show charts and more later today, plus winds update. It’s easy to be Negative and say a long period swell is always closeouts.  I say,  Florida has the most unpredictable ocean floor and swell reaction, so I’m saying, get up early , and hope for the best, and by all means, check 3 surf breaks if you need to.  Because, many long period swells have had great form. Surfing was not meant to be a one spot surf only sport:)


A 9:10 PM update from the post I made earlier today.  The 120 buoy hit 5.6 feet at 10 seconds at 2 pm, and now at 8 pm reading, it was 5.6 feet at 13 seconds.  The 20 mile buoy was 3 feet at 8 seconds at 6 pm, and now is 3.6 feet at 13 seconds, and the near shore buoy hit 2 feet at 13 seconds around 7 pm.  So it looks like the swell moved in a lot quicker , like 7 hours quicker.  Hope the NW winds are still going to be with us, but at least the swell is here😉  End 9:10 PM update.

If you get out at 10 or 11, there may be some size, but it may be choppy or heavy N winds.  If you get out at daybreak, it may only be waist high , but glassy:)  Why?

Sunday, it should be waist to rib early, and maybe chest high while it’s still semi-glassy, then hard North winds. There is a short window, where the winds are NW in the 6-10 mph range, from daybreak till maybe 8 or 9.  Then they go NNW around 9 or 10 in the 10-15 mph range.  And North by as early as 11 am.  High tide is at 5:20, Air Temp is 59 at daybreak, but warms up to 65 by 9.  Water temp should be 67-68 degrees, so you can vest it or spring it, or just full suit it:)

The video below is two short clips of a couple nice little lefts at Hightowers, late in the afternoon on February 8th, 2016.

 

Enjoy Sunday !

Oldwaverider


Will it be big, glassy, warm or cold air for Sunday’s incoming ground swell?  Check it out below !  ………and,  for the Old , well and for the Young, I share a Longboarders video I did the summer of 2014, with photos I brought in from others of Piers, Beachs, all over the US , for variety, and a bunch of talented longboarders surfing a nice rib to shoulder high day in Satellite Beach.  I hope you like the Beach Boys, cause they seemed appropriate for a Longboard and Beach Ladies video array!

 

Well, we’re 3 days out, but for Sunday it looks like rib to chest high with a nice chance of offshore winds for the Northern end of the county.  (Not Playalinda, but for the Cape and North Cocoa Beach.  Winds could be offshore till mid-morning.  It is a one day swell , but a 2ndary wind swell comes in right behind to bring size on Monday, but the chances of big chop on Monday are pretty good.  High tide is 5:20 AM for Satellite Beach, so by 7:30 a good portion of the deep water should be back in the faucet.  Air temp is only 60 low, and 74 for a high, and the weather shows “SUNNY” 03-03-16-clip-art-pictures-of-the-sun-100w for Sunday !

We’ll give a couple updates on the wind and swell, as Sunday comes closer.

Have a Great Thursday, and we hope to have a new Website for you by sometime in March , early April.

Oldwaverider😉


Well, the first question begs asking, do we have waves coming? An 03/01 9:35 PM Update re Wednesday surf.  The small swell hasn’t hit the 120 mile buoy yet, so don’t get your hopes up real big.  (end 03/01 9:35 PM update)

I  believe Wednesday we shall see some really fun thigh to waist high glassy waves, with almost ground swell in power.  It is a straight easterly swell, yeah, that’s  a trace different then all these NE’sters huh?  As it stands for now, it will be mostly cloudy Wednesday morning with 63 air temps at daybreak but warming to 68 degrees by 9 am.  The winds should be SW, turning West, to WNW in the 4-8 mph range at daybreak, and picking up to the low teens by afternoon, but supposedly, still offshore.  The water temp will be 68 something, so you may be able to vest it, or spring suit, or even skin it!

Okay, so check out this interview with John John just over 3 years ago.  When Mark Healey, gets the pleasure of walking up to the door of John John Florence, to hand him “The Eddie” invite:)  You have to love, how humble John John is, when he receives it.  He admits fear, and a little, duh, ah don’t know, all in a very down to earth way of just admitting,  Oh Sh_ t!  That is a brutal contest, but a great honor.  Ya gotta love that , to just this past Wednesday, that same kid, who has always been a Pipeline master, gets thrown into the same invite, and wins the contest with such calm, such confidence, and Masterful surfing and skill!


Who doesn’t love watching Big Wave Surfing?  More of the Eddie:)

NOTE: THIS IS A 02/28 SUNDAY 7:14 AM, UPDATE FROM YESTERDAYS POST REGARDING THE MASSIVE NE SWELL.  Unfortunately, it has now shrunk half in size.  We’ll keep you updated during the week. (<<< end 02/28 update) We have a massive steep steep NE ground expected next Saturday.  Possibly 11-13 second period swell, with 8-9 foot of swell, by next Saturday night, as the models now show.


John John Florence wins the Eddie Aikau event, in the biggest waves they have ever had for the contest.

 

Our 11 time WSL champion, Kelly Slater, takes 5th place, with style that was mind-blowing.  He also caught the only barrel in the event, and pulled out of it. (the only one I know of)