My apologies for not paying attention to the swell that came in for Otto on Friday (the 8th) and Saturday (the 9th).
I will mention, that we had a shoulder to head high day on Friday and thigh to occasional chest high morning on Saturday.
I did surf Friday at the end of the street (when it was shoulder to head-high further south), and caught some thigh to waist-high waves that were perfect glass, pretty fun with some workable walls and the last half of the ride was a nose-rider if you wanted to make it to the sand.
Saturday morning, I got a little wise, and hit a mega-high-tide break, surfed from 8:30 till 12:30, and it was perfection with as much power as you can ask for. Crazy thing was it was only breaking out 100 yards, and yet the rides (for a longboard) many of which exceeded 100 yard rides. I counted quite a few 8 and 10 second rides for other people.
Totally workable walls for my 10.0 longboard, and the shortboarders I was surfing with were nailing just as many waves. Barrelling right and left, with quite a few squatted barrells to be seen. Got a couple myself, with a cracked rib to show for it 🙂
Anyhow, I learned that no where was it breaking Saturday morning (which included Hightowers, Seagull, Hangers, 2nd Light, O-club) , unless you were out after 11 or 11:30, or unless you were at a mega-high-tide break. I got lucky and checked one at 8:15 am, and it was cranking. Funny thing was, one of my buddies that went with me was in a group at the same break that only got a few rides, but then 150 yards south, 5 or 6 other people and myself had at least 30 or more killer rides, literally until you were exhausted. 2 longboarders and I think 5 shortboarders.
It really made a huge difference to be at a mega-high-tide only break on Saturday, Friday I don’t know cause I didn’t get out until 11 am anyhow.
Anyhow, just thought I’d pass that one along. Moral – know the very best high tide break.
oldwaverider
Johnson Avenue Surfers 