
Oldwaverider
Oldwaverider
I can’t believe I missed posting this, the Billabong XXL Award Nominees from 2015 🙂  Plus, Shane Dorian, Ride of the Year Video!
Maya Gabeira actually went unconscious in the waters of Nazare, back in 2012 or 13. Â Carlos Burle rescued her. Â She snapped an ankle, and passed out a couple times. Â In this video, she faces her fears head on, by getting back in the water in Nazare. Â After having two hernias in her back repaired also. Â See the video below:
Monday morning should be chest high glass at the Cocoa Beach Pier.  I don’t know how this swell is breaking, as Johnson Avenue is not, even though it has size.  We got a lot of sand dumped here, and even in Hightowers which has been breaking really poorly on a number of swells, including last week.  But hopefully, Monday am at the Pier will be fun 🙂