Maya Gabeira actually went unconscious in the waters of Nazare, back in 2012 or 13. Carlos Burle rescued her. She snapped an ankle, and passed out a couple times. In this video, she faces her fears head on, by getting back in the water in Nazare. After having two hernias in her back repaired also. See the video below:
Monday morning should be chest high glass at the Cocoa Beach Pier. I don’t know how this swell is breaking, as Johnson Avenue is not, even though it has size. We got a lot of sand dumped here, and even in Hightowers which has been breaking really poorly on a number of swells, including last week. But hopefully, Monday am at the Pier will be fun 🙂
Will there be anything rideable from this big, steep angle NE swell late today, tomorrow, will there be a glassy day? … see below ;
Video clip below is from November 7th, this year at the Cocoa Beach Pier. (video by http://www.walkonwaterproductions.biz ) Marcus enjoying a nice clean right:
Today, if you don’t mind a workout, at 3 PM, go to Lori Wilson or 4rth Street North, and you could still have North winds at 30 plus mph with well overhead faces, with a few semi-clean faces. You could do the same at the Pier, but the size won’t be near the same. The angle of this swell is so steep, meaning like it is coming from a 45 degree angle, and since the ocean straight out, here at the Cape is 90 Degrees, it isn’t too hard to figure out, that our Jetty and the Cape itself, sticks out way way way, further then like New Smyrna/Ponce, so 60% or more of the swell will be blocked out unless you drive at least 2 or 3 miles South.
Below, Ride of the Year entry for Billabong XXL Awards for 2014, Maya Gabeira, first time a Woman, and she is always deserving 🙂
Thursday, the winds should be cut in half, so then, the normal animals that enjoy the Pier for a User Friendly chop paddle out with 1 to 2 foot overhead faces should be there to great you in the morning. Satellite Beach, if u want some 3 foot over head drops on the sets, and a much longer paddle out 🙂
I don’t see anything showing a glassy day, except a weak model for Tuesday. Since this is really a wind swell, our window for glass, will most likely be 3 or 4 hours, and could be morning or in the dark, but I don’t see that day being big. Most likely a waist to chest high day at best, but we’ll keep ya posted 🙂
Johnson Avenue Surfers 