Maya Gabeira actually went unconscious in the waters of Nazare, back in 2012 or 13. Carlos Burle rescued her. She snapped an ankle, and passed out a couple times. In this video, she faces her fears head on, by getting back in the water in Nazare. After having two hernias in her back repaired also. See the video below:
Monday morning should be chest high glass at the Cocoa Beach Pier. I don’t know how this swell is breaking, as Johnson Avenue is not, even though it has size. We got a lot of sand dumped here, and even in Hightowers which has been breaking really poorly on a number of swells, including last week. But hopefully, Monday am at the Pier will be fun 🙂
Johnson Avenue Surfers 