Quick update for Friday morning. Those of you willing to do dawn patrol, I believe we will have offshore winds, SW winds light, until 9:30 Am the very latest. Probably, only till 8:30 Am.
Size should be waist to chest at the Cape, and head high down south. There is a chance of a few over head waves down South. Probably more overhead sets than on Saturday.
Saturday, looks like NW winds till mid-morning at best, but also chest to head high, with possibly a few overhead waves.
oldwaverider
Our incoming swell should bring us some waist to possible chest high waves at the Cape today, with chest to overhead sets coming in down South, at Patrick and Satellite Beach. It does look like the swell may not hit the size as the models showed 2 days ago.
I looked at the pier this morning, at dead high tide and it was waist high, with about 5 short-boarders out and 1 long-boarder. Not a strong swell but hopefully as the swell rolls in thru noon, it may strengthen. It looked fun though.
The winds will be ramping up today from 10 to 15 mph out of the ESE, but……..Friday morning at daybreak it looks like they will drop to 2 to 4 mph SE so there should be some really fun lines coming in, waist high plus at the Cape and chest high plus down South.
Saturday morning still looks like we will have offshore winds, it looks like 5 to 8 mph NW winds at daybreak, and waist here, and chest high down South. The water should jump up to 65 by Saturday, so toss the suits, and skin it while soaking in the sun at 78 degrees !
This video is from a swell that just hit France, a cove/bay called Saint Jean Luis, as you can see it’s at the far SW tip of France as it hits Spain. See the awesome still shots here.
This has got to be the best close up video footage I have seen of big wave surfing. The backs of these waves look like 20 foot, and the fronts look to be 20 to 30 foot plus overhead. A couple of the guys, just left that huge swell at Ireland, which was also a Billabong XXL big wave entrant. The footage is only a minute, but the waves looks so clean, perfect and makeable (and huge), that they almost look ridable for the average Joe.
Enjoy the swell we have, the warm sun and the kind of waves that Europe is getting right now. Later
oldwaverider
Friday we have a 4 to 5 foot 10-11 second period ground swell coming in. (Actually we will see some in the AM, but the full force in late afternoon). At daybreak, The first part of the Nor’easter swell, probably North winds, at 10-15 mph turning NNE by 8 or 9 Am. Size ought to be maybe thigh high at the Cape, with chest high plus down South. In the afternoon the winds should be strong onshore 15 plus mph NNE winds. The winds may start to slow down by evening. Saturday should be the glass.
Christmas morning, Saturday at daybreak, should be glassy, thigh high waves I hope at the Cape, and chest to shoulder high waves in Satellite Beach. We should have some SW winds 2 to 5 mph until maybe 10 am, increasing to 10 mph by noonish, turning toward the South.
The tough choice is when to paddle out. Low tide is 4 Am, so daybreak would be mid-tide, the air temp should be 50-52 degrees (not to bad) , and WSW winds around 5 mph. The best tide will be for a noon paddle out (high tide at 10:30, high going low which is best), but by noon the winds could already be out of the South. But maybe they’ll hang in there from the SSW.
Merry Christmas and have a great Christmas surf session!
oldwaverider
Johnson Avenue Surfers 