Archive for the ‘World Big Wave Events and Articles’ Category


IS THIS THE BIGGEST RECORDED WAVE EVER PADDLE INTO? … Well, watch the video 🙂

>>>Published on May 6, 2013by Billabong (thus the quotes/arrows 🙂  )

Shawn Dollar (Santa Cruz, CA) describes what led up to his 61-foot world record wave at Cortes Bank on December 21, 2012. At the 2013 Billabong XXL Big Wave Awards, the ride earned Dollar earned $30,000 by sweeping both the Pacifico Paddle Award and the XXL Biggest Wave title. For more info see the event website at http://www.BillabongXXL.com.<<&lt;

Wednesday, we have a little more surf coming in perhaps, a little 2 to 3 foot wind swell.  Today looks to be some knee high glass at the Pier for the right tide.

mothers-day-Hi_momHAPPY MOTHER’S DAY to all You incredible Mom’s out there !


A sick 15 second video of a 10 to 12 foot overhead tow-in barrel from Hurricane Sandy.  (he never dropped to the bottom third of the wave so it may be bigger 🙂

He actually gets barreled twice.

pete from Mike Risick on Vimeo.


kelly-on-the-bomb-of-the-day-oct-2012-nazarre-portugal-from-magicseaweed.com

kelly-on-the-bomb-of-the-day-oct-2012-nazarre-portugal-from-magicseaweed.com

Friday still on track for 18 to 20 plus foot faces according to the models.  That means 10 to 12 foot backs of the waves, afternoon.  With 50 plus mph onshore winds 🙂

Magicseaweed shows the same swell model size here (not the face size, not the wave back size, but the swell size) check Magicseaweed here.

Bob Freeman’s report shows 10 to 12 foot backs for Friday, down by Satellite here.

PLAN ON HURRICANE WEATHER FRIDAY AND LOTS OF FLOODING!  THIS ONE WILL BE WITHIN 200 MILES OF SHORE AND MAY HAVE A LOT OF SURGE.

Saturday is still looking like 12 to 16 foot faces depending on where ya go and it does drop from daybreak till afternoon fairly fast , with semi-glass NNW winds, but unless ya wait till mid-afternoon, you won’t have winds less than 30 mph.

Sunday, looks like 10 to 12 foot plus faces and semi-glass winds with bigger sets of course.

The Video above is 3 people getting towed into Nazarre, Portugal, Kelly Slater caught the wave of the day, looks like a 30 foot face drop, really nice wall.

This was the place that Garrett caught last year a 9 foot 16 second period swell that produced an 80 foot face wave.  (they get a phenomena called refraction from other effects coming from other breaks North and South of Nazarre)  So normally, the biggest sets would come in at twice the swell size, but Nazarre’s 9 foot swell becomes like a 36 foot swell, and doubles the face heights on the biggest sets.

Start jogging, paddling, eating, sleeping, this could be the biggest waves we have had in years.

Oldwaverider


Surf coming, I believe, a nice possible bump for Wednesday morning…more in a sec

CHECK THIS AWESOME VIDEO THAT JUST PUMPED IN PASCUALES, MEXICO , RIGHT AFTER THE MASSIVE ESCONDIDO SWELL! You know my addiction with big wave (though this is only 10 to 15 foot, but, it’s still pumping)  If you’re impatient, move the scrub bar up to 1 min 12 seconds to get to the surf 🙂


Wednesday morning should have a thigh to waist high bump, at about a ground swell, with offshore winds in the morning, starting at SW after midnight and turning to WSW by around Noon.  About 9 AM is mid-tide , with high going low, which is our best scenario, high going low.

If I’m wrong, then post a comment, and I will accept my egg 🙂

Oldwaverider


Tuesday Night Surf Update below following this awesome video, By the way, check out the Swell Period chart I added below for Friday morning at 6 AM. Very powerful, very uniform period, and you can see the fetch (width of distance wind travels over water to create swell) of the swell is as wide as the U.S. almost..……………….This is a video covering the two big massive Paddle In Sessions at JAWS/PEAHI, from January 4rth and then January 30th, 2012, Yes, this year.    THIS VIDEO IS SO INSANE!  GREAT DROPINS,  WIPEOUTS THAT LOOK LIKE DEATH. You will be amazed at Jeff Rowley and his wipeouts, and perfect ride of the year.

Many of the big name Surfers are in this including a not so big name, Dave Wassell who may have the respect of the biggest wave paddled into EVER!.  Possibly  60 foot face paddle in.  Also Albee Layer, Shane Dorian,  Greg Long and a host of others, including some names we may not be familiar with.  Jeff Rowley paddled into a 50 to maybe 55 foot face and is nominated for The Ride of the Year nominee for the 2012 Billabong XXL Awards.

 

The moving Swell "Period" chart for Friday morning, 4-20-2012 at 6 AM.  It appears to be an almost perfectly uniform shape.  Very rarely seen like this.  Closeouts may not be as bad as other long period swells.  Complliments of Magicseaweed.com

The moving Swell "Period" chart for Friday morning, 4-20-2012 at 6 AM. It appears to be an almost perfectly uniform shape. Very rarely seen like this. Closeouts may not be as bad as other long period swells. Complliments of Magicseaweed.com

Upcoming Surf!  Thursday late afternoon or evening an Easterly swell rolls in,  so in Satellite Beach some waist high waves may come in with South to SSW winds, maybe.  The way the period is lined up,  it may not be to bad on closeouts.

Friday morning awesome glass!, models have been indicating for a few days in a row of providing us a 3 foot at 11 or 12 second period ground swell.  With offshore winds up until late morning.  Easterly swell,  so we could see some waist to rib high sets at the Cape or at least the Pier,  and Chest high plus down South in Satellite Beach.

Saturday could have some knee to rib high leftovers going from the Cape to Satellite respectively.  Winds maybe brisk South, maybe a tint of offshores, but hard to say right now.  Late Saturday a South weak wind swell rolls in for a couple days, but don’t expect much form or anything but slop chop.

That’s if for now.  Get excited about Friday folks.  Sorry for the back log on updates.  We have been blessed for having to burn the midnight oil to get jobs done.  Such is life.  Thursday night we’ll confirm the Friday wind situation.


Billabong XXL Big Wave Awards Nominees 2012 Video plus Lazy Update Wednesday afternoon at 3:30 PM  , Thursday may have some leftovers, but the offshore winds are blowing west out at the 120, so I wouldn’t count on much Thursday morning.  It shows a 1.5 foot ground swell which I have seen a swell that size produce chest high at Perkins, but in this case, I go with knee to waist high, North going South.  Saturday some time the big wind swell starts pushing in, bring big chop waves for the Easter Surf Fest, yeawwwwwwwwwwwww!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Sunday big overhead chop, Waves should be here thru Monday still overhead with reduced onshore winds for Monday, and maybe some Tuesday rib high glass.

Be sure to check out the 48th Annual Easter Surf Fest at Shepard Park and the Ccocoa Beach Pier.

Everything below is from Surf Report that I did on Tuesday April 3rd.

Upcoming Surf for maybe Wednesday waist high somewhere and overhead windswell for Sunday , Monday ………….in a moment 🙂

BIG JAWS/PEAHI PADDLE IN SESSION VIDEO WITH JEFF ROWLEY

This is spectacular video footage of Jaws, from one of the two big paddle in sessions, this one on January 4, 2012, this year.  Wave size was 45 to 60 foot faces, approx.  The music, the insane rides and drops, totally awesome,  especially from Jeff Rowley, the newcomer to Peahi, who is from Australia.  Jeff is nominated for the Billabong XXL Ride of the Year award.

Surf Update;  Tuesday night a maybe ground swell rolls in, and for Wednesday morning, possibly thigh to rib high waves and brisk offshore winds. 

Thursday morning leftovers probably, and then flat till Sunday for the most part.

Sunday could be some overhead chop down south and maybe some chest high stuff at the Cape.  The swell angle is NE,  so we will get some blockage, how much, can’t say 🙂  We should have more big chop with winds backing off on Monday to under 15 mph possibly, but we’ll know more definite on Saturday night.

Oldwaverider


What’s down the Pipe on our local incoming Surf?…………….In a sec :),    a great Big Wave Video of 6 time Billabong XXL Award winner Shane Dorian.

In 2010, Shane took a severe wipeout at Mavericks, and returns to the place of destruction again, Mavericks.  He is 40 years old and doing Big Waves strong as you’ll see in some probably 40 foot face waves.  Hope you Enjoy!

Incoming Surf;  Tuesday, high winds starts bringing a ENE swell, that should turn into a ground swell by Wednesday morning, and on Thursday most likely giving us the glassy Waist high surf at the Cape with some decent power, and rib to Chest high sets in Satellite Beach.  This is a 1 1/2 day swell, but it should be big Wednesday chest to overhead, going from the Cape to Satellite.  The winds will be onshore Wednesday, but it looks like they start to lay down to 10 mph onshore Wednesday afternoon.  We won’t have accurate winds until Monday and Tuesday for Wed and Thurs surf.

Thursday is looking to be the classic day, so Tuesday and Wednesday we’ll update, to see if it holds true to the models.

And……..get excited, it’s a ENE swell without the cold air!  Water temps around 76 ° ,  I went out the other day, around 10 AM, and there was absolutely know reason for a wetsuit no matter how long ya stayed out.

Oldwaverider


A VIDEO IN MEMORY OF MARK FOO AND SION MILOSKY

I had to share this video in case y’all didn’t catch it on Magicseaweed.com or on Vimeo.

It is not a clip that shows the long magical rides and drops at Mavericks.  It translates the feel of a huge wave wipeout, and what it’s like to come close to drowning after a 2 wave hold down, etc, spoken from the best Big Wave Surfers on the Planet (minus a few like Laird Hamilton).

I’ve had my near drownings in 3 places I can remember, and it was only 6 foot or so overhead waves;  Ponce Inlet in the 80’s (getting sucked into the bolders by the most powerful rip I ever felt),  Acapulco in the 80’s  (getting sucked out to sea in a part of Mexico that I had never surfed before, about an hour or so from Mexico Pipelind/Escondido)  and Wrightsville Beach, NC in the 90’s (also surfing alone and getting a hold down and then sucked out to sea from a fast building swell 😉 .   So thus I share the extreme of Mavericks near drownings with big wave surf and for the two very special Big Wave Surfers, one Sion Milosky whom we lost a little over a year ago, who left a beautiful wife and daughter behind in Hawaii. The other was Mark Foo, in the early 90’s, also from Hawaii.

Surf Satruday;  I give it 70 percent “gut” chance that we will have knee to thigh high semi-glassy surf at the Cape, and thigh to rib high surf in Satellite Beach and glassy, with 8 to 12 mph SSW winds that will probably end before noon.

There were some chest high waves today and very fun for a longboard at Hightowers.

There were some chest high waves today and very fun for a longboard at Hightowers.

The waves today were solid waist to a few chest high sets, almost glassy, but mushy, longboard only.  Really fun, long clean glassy rides, totally carvable, though it was 6 mph SSE winds.  The 3 short boarders out, got maybe 50 to 100 foot rides with a lot of pumping required.  Here is a couple of shots from today at Hightowers.  For short boards it was waist high for where they could catch them, and maybe a drop and one cut.  Longboard waves had a few chest high sets,  and some fairly long rides. But , when I got out of the water, there were only 3 short boarders out 😉

There were some chest high waves today and very fun for a longboard at Hightowers.

There were some chest high waves today and very fun for a longboard at Hightowers.

Beyond that, nothing to mention, except the 1 or 2 day possible big ground swell in the middle of next week.

Hope ya enjoy the Video!

Have a great weekend,

Oldwaverider


Today was really really fun!…………………Friday, better,  Saturday , maybe a touch of glass but only North and only at daybreak till 8 or 9 Am ?  More in a sec………….

Dungeons - n - Sunset, South Africa, on a 15 foot swell (but a wave of the day here, maybe 18), March 1 2012. From Magicseaweed.com  Jeremy Johnson and Matt Bromley on a bomb.

Dungeons - n - Sunset, South Africa, on a 15 foot swell (but a wave of the day here, maybe 18), March 1 2012. From Magicseaweed.com Jeremy Johnson and Matt Bromley on a bomb.

The obsession for big wave watching has me thanking Magicseaweed.com for the great slideshow from a solid 15 foot swell that hit Dungeons & Sunset Beach, South Africa on March 1st 2012.  Yeah, we had 15 foot (faces of rogue sets 😦 let the skeptics who weren’t there for 4 hours argue that , <grin> ) with Hurricane or TS Hannah 3 years ago at the Pier and Satellite Beach.  But as Rich (one of our consistent, haven’t seen in a while 50 year old  surfers also called it ) would attest to that morning, the faces were 10 to 12 at Lincoln and Johnson and 15 foot faces on the “rogue” sets if you will at the pier.  But ,  they probably had 25 to 30 foot faces in Dungeons for their 15 foot Hawaiian defined size waves 🙂

I thought this fact was amazing about swells; Apparently one percent of waves in a swell can be up to twice the average. On a big day these are the rouge sets which keep you on your toes.  From the same big day at Dungeons, South Africa.  This was a rogue wave. See the article link to Magicseaweed.com published March 8, 2012

I thought this fact was amazing about swells; Apparently one percent of waves in a swell can be up to twice the average. On a big day these are the rouge sets which keep you on your toes. From the same big day at Dungeons, South Africa. This was a rogue wave. See the article link to Magicseaweed.com published March 8, 2012

Forgive me, but I had to snag these two pick from the article today at Magicseaweed.com of Jeremy Johnson and Matt Bromley on this 25 foot plus face bomb.

Our Surf;   The surf today at Johnson, Chad and I did an hour, got real lucky on the paddle out, but we had some solid rib to chest high waves, and some head high face drops with a rogue set or two.  For 15 mph onshore winds, you’d never expect it to have been that clean a form.  We were out from like 12 to 1, so we were past mid tide of high going low.  It was sucking out in some shallow water, so lots of wall to work, steep drops, really fun waves.

Friday, expect chest high plus surf for the Cape (plus bigger sets),  and head high surf down south with some 2 to 3 foot overhead sets (on the dropin) for sure in Satellite Beach.  Winds will be 7 to 10 mph SE until 10 or 11 Am I believe,  so it should be really clean, the ground swell part rolls in before daybreak, 10 second period, so power, form, with my guess minimal closeouts will be the game for the day.

Saturday, we are getting burned, kinda.   Unless you get out at daybreak and surf till 8 AM.  We were going to have offshore winds from the Cape to Satellite until 9 or 10, but………….we have a new swell coming from NE (but the charts say East, which I don’t know why they say that cause it is coming from NE on every Atlantic East Coast storm graph I look at, but whatever 😉  ),  so the new storm is pushing the offshores in to never never land, but!!!!!!!!!!!!  We will have N winds at starting around 2 or 3 Am Friday night Saturday morning, until 7 or 8 AM tops!  The wind will be 4 to 6 mph,  so don’t party late Friday night and get it from the Cape to 4rth street North and you’ll have slight offshore winds.   See my new best break for North winds chart here to see how offshore the winds are for North winds, depending on the break.  Johnson Avenue is 14 degrees offshore approx.  ,  Lori Wilson and 4rth street North about 4 degrees offshore.  The Port is even more offshore.  Satellite Beach shows actual NW to NNW at 8 mph until 8 or 9 AM because the swell will take 1 hour or so long to hit there, so if you want 2 to 3 foot overhead drops, and semi-glassy,  then head South.  But by 10 or noon, the winds go to 15 to 20 mph bringing in the new swell for a big choppy blown out Sunday thru a number of days.

That’s it.  Once I see the calm , or light wind day for the new swell, we’ll pass it on.

Have a great, big swell Friday and Saturday morning.

Oldwaverider


Created by

JohnnyTwoTone100

This was so awesome to watch, this big swell that hammered the entire Pacific Coast it seems.  Y’all know my obsession with big wave video.  Yeah, the camera shakes a fair amount (the guy apologizes on his YouTube page because the boat was shaking so much), but just grab the rush of the drop in for these guys.  And drool, except for the fact that cold water does , well, it stinks.   Funny thing is,  a few hundred miles further South, below the Ecuador line,  like Acapulco, the water is warm pretty much year round, like no wetsuit in November.

A glimpse of Todos Santos , Mexico's coastline map, and the long road the surfers had to get there.

A glimpse of Todos Santos , Mexico's coastline map, and the long road the surfers had to get there.

Here is a little map I found on a blog that discusses Experiencing Baja , Mexico.  It’s kind of cool to take a minute out of our normal obsessive pace, and read about other people that have a simpler life.   I got side-tracked when looking for a map to show you where these guys drove all nite to get this incredible surf session.   This blog which has nothing to do with the surfers in this video, is great for looking into the lives of the people who live along the rode to Todos Santos.  If you have ever surfed along this part of the Mexico border (as opposed to the Gulf of Mexico side, like Cancun) or even further below (like 250 miles further South even), along the non-Baja Southern border such as   Acapulco,  Escondido, Mexico Pipeline,  it is a pretty sparse area, and back in the late 70’s and mid-80’s when I surfed there,  we American’s weren’t received as gracefully as we might be now;  I should also say, not received by the bandito population, cause the Mexican folks are wonderful people to the core 🙂

Incoming Surf; Not much to pass on with incoming swells.  We’ll look at it to see if this less than 5 foot wind swell coming Monday does anything for us.

Oldwaverider