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Sunny making his relentless barrel pursuit on a waist high gem. Image 1 of 3 sequence. Photos by Chad.
Incoming NE ‘ster windswell for maybe Monday thru Wednesday…I’ll get into that in a minute;
The photos here of Sunny were from a May 14 2011 ground swell that kicked up waist to shoulder high waves, perfect glass and barrels. These three shots were taken by Chad , and of Sunny on a nice left.
Sunny. Image 2 of 3 sequence.
As far as incoming swell, other than the 2 foot fairly consistent knee to thigh high stuff we have had for the last week, we do have a Nor’easter that is predicted to blow from land to sea at a NW angle, so it looks like it will give us a steep NE windswell for perhaps Monday thru Wednesday.
Sunny, image 3 of 3.
There could be some head high faces, but mostly onshore winds, and by Tuesday afternoon, the models show the swell coming in more East than North which could allow some of this baby to hit the Cape, instead of letting Satellite Beach hog the whole show 🙂
As it progresses, we’ll let ya know.
Enjoy this awesome weather that the last two winters denied us. Oh, the water temp is the same at the Trident pier which hugs close to the barrier islands just west of the one mile buoy both showing showing 69 ° which you gotta love.
It’s hump day Wednesday, enjoy the remainder of your week and the weekend 🙂 A week from Friday is the Cape’s Friday Fest, so don’t forget about that street party!
The quick update…yeah right, like your a believer on that one 😉
I’m reading a good book, so actually I’m serious, short;
Wednesday 3 to 5 feet overhead down south but cruddy winds there. The Cape, maybe head high plus, with North winds in the morning, around 12 mph, increasing throughout morning.
My guess, that we will have a trace of NNW winds Wednesday morning at the Cape, so you can figure the rest out.
Thursday, still looking a couple of feet overhead down south, probably glassy by late morning south, and glassy at daybreak at the Cape with chest to some shoulder high waves.
Full size images below if you want to click on them and see full screen.
Dave taking advantage of an overcast, drizzly, windy day at the Cape. Image 1 of 4 in sequence. Photo by oldwaverider
DAVE L. – Photo Gallery
Dave L. had a really nice right here, threw some nice spray after the drop in, and set up for a great re-entry. Man Dave rips!!!
It was a solid waist high plus today at Johnson…It depends on whether your leaning over or not <:) I would have had some chest high drops for sure.
Image 2 of 4 in sequence. Dave the Ripper setting up...
It actually hit 13.5 feet at 8 seconds at the 120 buoy and hit 6.5 feet at 7 seconds at the 20 mile buoy at 2 PM today!
An occasional distraction came along 🙂
A wind swell , definitely not a ground swell, but with 15 mph plus SW offshore winds (kind of offshore for the Cape) starting this morning, there was actually plenty of fun barrels and peaks to be had. Sunny and Dave L. had a great session.
Dave makes it look so easy 🙂 Image 3 of 4 shot sequence. Photo by oldwaverider
I took about 45 minutes of photos, to try and test out my new found knowledge on the Sony cam 🙂 After, the field session at Hightowers/RC’s for “No Name ENE swell” with 10 foot plus wave faces last Monday October 10, and a camera out of focus, that was pretty painful ;(
Surf Report for Thursday. FLAT
Tuesday it appears to be a swell coming in in the 3 to4 foot range, so when it starts getting close we’ll keep ya updated.
Anyhow, I’ll be putting a Sunny Gallery up right after this one.
A nice re-entry in place. Image 4 of 4. I wish I got more shots on this wave, but I ran out of film 😉
Full size images below if you want to click on them and see full screen.
Image 1 of 3 sequence, John on a nice waist to stomach high right, first day of TS Maria at the Cape, September 13 2011Image 2 of 3 sequence, John on a nice waist to stomach high right, first day of TS Maria at the Cape, September 13 2011 , photo by Art
WE HAVE MORE WAVES COMING! … I’ll give the update down below after a couple words about the photos here.
The first actual day of Tropical Storm Maria brought some pretty fun thigh to waist high waves around the Cape and Johnson. I got out late, did a quick sesh, and then wanted to get some pics of Dr. John and some others.
I hope ya enjoy the pics, it was a good time taking the photos, and I do apologize again, I left the zoom on to high, oops, my bad 😉
Dr. John was having a good day, with both great lefts and rights to even out the morning.
Friday surf is the first day I’ll talk about. Thursday, small wind chop, go south if you want waist high or bigger chop. Save your energy. Friday, may get a small additional push of a SE swell, very small push, but…it could very well be waist to some chest high sets depending on where you go. The wind should be West , 4 to 6 mph at daybreak switching to SW before Noon, and then onshore. Could be a fun day, maybe not much power, but a fun morning sesh.
Image 3 of 3 sequence, John, first day of TS Maria at the Cape, September 13 2011
Saturday and Sunday may be similar to Friday. Offshore in the morning, remants of a lingering wind, non-ground swell. I could be way off base thinking this little wind swell that came down as a NE’ster could be hanging like this, but it seems to be coupling up with a little SE swell being pushed ahead of Tropical Storm Ophelia. It’s not actually part of Ophelia, but it seems to be keeping a constant low pressure working out there just enough to push in some mild wind swell waves.
A nice left cruiser, Image 1 of 2 sequence, John on a nice waist high left, first day of TS Maria at the Cape, September 13 2011 , photo by Art
Sunday, late, TS Ophelia, starts really making it’s push from the SE, and should be around 1000 miles East/Southeast of Miami by Monday afternoon. Sunday may have some weird waves from both swells, with offshore winds so it could be fun for most of the day.
Monday morning, could be chest high plus down South, and maybe waist plus at the Cape with offshore winds in the morning until maybe mid-morning.BUT…WINDS ARE IFFY THIS FAR OUT TRYING TO CALL,UNTIL WE ARE 48 HOURS BEFORE THE DAY OF SURF, AND THEN THEY ARE ONLY ABOUT 80% ACCURATE!
Image 2 of 2 sequence, John on a nice waist high left, first day of TS Maria at the Cape, September 13 2011
Tuesday could be some shoulder to head high waves and possibly Wednesday. This all could change easily, but I just wanted to share what the models are showing right now.
A sweet large set wave for the day and and Dr. John driving a nice hard right. Image 1 of 3 shot sequence. Tropical Storm Maria Day one at the Cape. Photo by ArtImage 2 of 3 shot sequence. Tropical Storm Maria Day one at the Cape.Image 3 of 3 shot sequence. Tropical Storm Maria Day one at the Cape.
We’ll stop there. Ophelia as the models show right now, may never become a Cane, but it could give us the same beautiful waves that Maria did.
Keep your fingers and prayers up for a good day Friday, and then especially Monday and Tuesday.
My buddy Rob from Newport Beach surfing his home break. This is a summer September 2009 pic.
Up thru today, there has been some nice glassy knee high plus waves at Lori Wilson Park.
But, it looks like for Wednesday and 6 days out, there may be nill. We’ve had a great summer for waves so far (because we’ve had waves 🙂 so I do believe that there will be more surprise swells, be they local wind, ground swell or whatever, and just like last summer, all before the hurricane season really hits.
So for now, here’s a pic of my buddy Rob that lives in Newport Beach, Ca.
Rob and I met and surfed at Hangers when he was in town visiting family.
This photo is Rob surfing Newport Beach in September of 2009.
When some more videos come in from the massive 49 foot 17 second period swell that hit Tasmania, etc. I’ll post the video.
The storm hammered Australia (creating the 50 year storm at Bells Beach , Australia) and it may be sending Kelly Slater to Fiji to surf the massive waves and take him out of the J-Bay event that is scheduled for the regular ASP world tour.
Anyhow, stay stoked, read a surf mag, go to church or fix the dings on your board and change the wax maybe 🙂
49 foot waves on the swell chart coming to Tasmania, compliments of magicseaweed.com. Check out the chart below for Cocoa Beach for Friday and Saturday, pretty humorous 🙂
Today was beautiful glassy waves for an hour or two near the Port, some shoulder high drops with waist to chest high sets. A few workable walls, lots of power, but unfortunately most were closeouts. I decided to surf the Cape because of the morning NNW winds which are crosswinds for down South. But I heard reports that down South wasn’t blocked out totally by the Bahamas and actually had some overhead drops.
Friday, it should drop some in size even though it hit 7 feet at 9 seconds at the 120 buoy around 8:30 Pm tonight, but the reason I say this is the winds at the 120 are blowing direct out of the South at over 10 knots. Plus, we should have some SSW winds for a few hours tonight at 10 mph which could also knock it down some. But…………………
I still think Friday we should have some chest high waves down South with direct South winds in the 8 to 10 mph range, and by 8 or 9 Am they are supposed to switch to SSW in the 10 to 12 mph range until mid to late morning for both Satellite and Cocoa Beach. Saturday we may have some thigh high leftovers with possible offshore winds.
The Cape being a North wind break would have total sideshore winds so it doesn’t make sense to surf anywhere North of Minuteman Causeway.
Get excited, it should be a fun morning, and hopefully the 30 to 40 % chance of Thundershowers will wait until 11 or 12 like weather.com says it will 😉
Cocoa Beach swell charts, coming in at 7% of the swell approaching Tasmania. I'll take it for the summer. But man, we have some great video coming in a few weeks when this one hits, Tasmania, Fiji and some other spots.
Okay, the crazy first screenshot image above is a massive swell getting ready to hit Tasmania, the chart is showing 49 feet at 17 seconds, insane. As this swell moves on, it is supposed to hit Fiji with greater intensity than the 40 to 50 foot swell that hit Fiji last year, so when the video come out, my addiction for big wave videos will have those ready for you from YouTube, Vimeo and/or Magicseaweed.com
The incoming swell hit 6 feet at 9 seconds at the 120 buoy from 6 to 8 PM. Thursday morning should see some chest high waves down South for sure. Probably bigger sets will come in down there. Waist to possible chest in places at the Cape. The swell is looking to be 3.5 feet at 9 seconds when it hits our beach.
Winds are looking to be NNE at daybreak, turning North for an hour or two, maybe and hour or so of NNW at the Cape and only North down by Satellite Beach.
Friday morning looks like 3 feet at 8 seconds, with brisk SW winds in the 8 to 12 mph range. Should also be chest high down South.
Get excited, it’s Summer and there ain’t supposed to be waves 🙂
Halloween Day 2007, Another picture I took with an old, 35 mm camera, which I had no practice or knowledge of using, but I did get some poor quality shots of a huge Halloween 2007 swell that we had. This was smaller than the 12 foot plus face wave on the 6/27 post, but this was probably a 10 foot face that I shot from the back of Cocoa Beach pier.
Another swell coming in after this………undefineable wind swell that has given us thigh high plus waves thru the July 4rth weekend, if you caught it at the right tides.
Lori Wilson has been looking good every day.
The new swell, again its a cross between a wind swell and a wannabe ground swell. We should see some lines with it. It trickles in starting Tuesday and just kind of keeps rolling in thru Thursday and then kind of hangs Friday and into the weekend. The biggest size of the swell is possibly 3.5 feet at 9 seconds, which can translate to chest high with some larger sets, depending on the break you surf.
Thursday is the first day we may see some size to speak of, onshore winds as it looks now, but some chest high waves should be around at least down south.
Friday, it shows possible offshore winds for a few hours around daybreak, with some chest high waves. The Cape may see some waist high waves. Saturday looks possible offshore also.
My lust for huge wave videos continues, (Click the 4 little arrows just right of the HD letters on the video to see this full screen, its awesome) but first, our local update……We still have a small swell approaching what seems to be Thursday night after midnight, on our beaches Friday morning. Now, will the offshore winds Thursday and Thursday night keep the small swell from hitting the actual beaches, that is the question.
Thursday morning, there may be some fun knee high waves at the Cape here. High tide at 7:20 am approx., so anytime after that if you have a long board.
Friday morning, we could have some thigh high waves here, if………..the offshore winds don’t keep it offshore. The reason why I believe we could get something, is the moving swell period chart comes sweeping in a few hours before daybreak with a 9 second period and a fetch that looks to be 500 miles or so.
Best scenario, thigh high and glassy. Worst, glassy shorebreak and a nice day to surf fish 🙂
Saturday the period drops one notch, but also a chance of something rideable then.
I’m trying to be optimistic and realistic. 50/50 chance for Friday morning fun waves.
The video, is a huge swell that hit Puerto Escondido Mexico with some 30 to 50 foot faces, and a crowd of the big waves surfers there.
A picture I took with an exhumed 35 mm camera with not prior practice, just to get some pitiful shots of a huge Halloween 2007 swell that we had. This was a 12 foot plus face wave that I shot from the back of Cocoa Beach pier. It was about a 2 1/2 board stacked end to end face so the guy had a pretty good fall.
We have a small swell approaching what seems to be Thursday night after midnight, on our beaches Friday morning. It’s an east/southeast swell, oh what a surprise ! for the direction, that is looking to bring some waist high waves Friday morning with offshore winds as the models show right now, and a bump up to stomach or chest high on Saturday with offshore winds in the morning also. When I see the 4-5 feet at the 120 buoy Thursday evening and winds only out of the east to bring it to the shores for Friday morning, then I’ll get real excited…….
It actually looks to be between a simple wind swell, and a wannabe ground swell. By Friday morning, the fetch of the swell has one big solid blue stretching out about twice the length of Florida out eastward, so this seems to represent a small low pressure system, but definitely small.
Since this swell doesn’t stretch out the desired 1000 to 2000 miles in width, the models and arrival of said swell can change drastically, but since this is the wave dry time of the year, I feel like getting excited about it.
The picture to the left was humorously taken with a 35 mm camera that I dug out of a closet back in 2007 for a huge Halloween swell that we had. I had no zoom on it, didn’t remember how to use it, but I had taken a few pictures of Kevin, owner of Cape Surf, but this particular pic I took because the guy riding the wave wiped it pretty good, and the wave face height was 2 1/2 times the length of his board so he had a pretty good fall when this wipe out was done. Yeah I know the quality of the pic is hard to see the wave size, but it’s easy enough to add at least two board lengths to get the minimum face height.
Anyhow, fingers crossed for Friday and Saturday. Waves for July 4rth weekend would be nice.
Johnson Avenue Surfers 