Author: oldwaverider

It still looks like the NNW winds at the 20 mile buoy seem to be holding much of the windswell offshore.  You can see it at the horizon if you will, but at the beach it remains small.

The 120 buoy is holding around 6 ft at 7 to 9 seconds.

I keep checking to see if more of the swell is gonna come as a Nor’easter or an east/southeast swell as I mentioned earlier on the 3rd.   With the St. Augustine 40 mile offshore buoy going from 5.2 ft at 9 seconds at 8 PM Sunday night down to 3.9 ft at 9 seconds at 8 Pm tonight it still seems our swell is more from the east than NE.  And with our 20 mile buoy staying at 5.0 to 5.9 feet from 7 to 9 second period, this also seems to support an east swell.

Full link to the eastern Atlantic moving swell chart with arrows pointing swell directions: http://magicseaweed.com/Florida-MSW-Surf-Charts/20/

What’s this mean.   I don’t know 🙂    I do know the 120 buoy will start increasing some time tonight or Tuesday during the day and that the switch to NNE winds  at the 20 mile buoy should start bringing the wind swell to our beachs.

So, enjoy the fall like weather, I had a nice and different beach run this morning down to Cherry Down park.  Decided to skip the pier run, and head North for a change.  Nice breeze hitting me in the face.   When I run tomorrow morning, I’ll have a better idea if any swell his hitting us yet.

Have a great night all.  

oldwaverider

It looks like we have a windswell coming (not a groundswell),  from the east/southeast.  We were getting a Nor’easter, but the moving swell chart http://magicseaweed.com/Florida-MSW-Surf-Charts/20/   says otherwise now.

The 120 mile buoy climbed from 4.5 feet at 8 seconds to 6.5 feet at 9 seconds from 5 am to 6 pm today (temporarily close to a ground swell but not quite).   So Monday looks like we should have some thigh to maybe waist high waves with 20 mph plus winds from the NNE,  which would seem to indicate a Nor’easter huh?   Tuesday should be building and show more size by the late afternoon.  Wednesday morning looks to be some head high waves with the same on winds and Thursday the same or maybe dropping a small amount on the wave size.

The distance and weather system over the body of water creating this swell is to inconsistent to create a fetch for a groundswell.   The period may increase for a few 4 to 6  hour time intervals up to 10 or more seconds, but not over a wide enough body of water to create a ground swell with long lines and wind that can come around offshore. (except maybe at the near end of the swell, we could get some offshores with the size smaller of course)

For a few definitions of swell terms, you can look here: http://magicseaweed.com/Wave-Fundementals-Article/323/

Hey, at least there will be some waves, and as Ross at CFLsurf.com likes to say,  if you plan on the worst conditions, for high wind and chop, then you won’t be dissappointed.

Later,

oldwaverider (Art)

The size based on what I see with the growth in stength of the swell (from 10 sec to 11 second period) means more of ground swell.  Size is looking to be at least waist high to shoulder high for Friday morning and decreasing slowly thru the day.  The size is depending weather you do the Cape or Satellite Beach respectively.

The 120 buoy is still growng, it hit 14 feet at 11 seconds, and 12.5 at 12 seconds, but with the winds blowing offshore all night tonight, it may keep some of the swell from coming in any more.

To the chase waist to shoulder high and glassy is my guess.   With the swell fading overnight Friday, but should be ridable Saturday for awhile. (longboard probably).

I put the 120 buoy chart here, to show the growth, but the size of our surf is reflected above in my writing.

Sorry, the updates kinda dry tonight, 6 hours of surfing and I’m spent,  ain’t getting any younger 🙂

If you don’t want these charts backing up some comments just let me know.   Thanks.   Art

Yeah.   Stop by Dunkin Donuts get your sandwich and java fix and pick your spot!

The pier is firing barrells but definitely its share of closeouts, but there looks like plenty of shoulders.  Looks like some nice lines are building, 10 sec period swell hit the 120 at 10 pm last night, so this swell is still coming in for then next hour or two.

Winds feel about 12.7 mph or so, but supposedly they will back down for a couple hours and then pickup at noon out of the NNW.

Enjoy it while its here!!

The 120 buoy hit 11 feet at 9 seconds at 6 PM !   What’s that mean?  Maybe a ground swell chasing out the wind swell part and maybe some lines instead of just peaks in the morning.    I know, I’m an optimist. Hopefully some 10 second period waves will start coming in from out there.  Still looking like  chest to shoulder/head high depending on where ya go.

Winds go offshore after midnight (I’m thinking sometime between 12:16 am and 12:44 am, just kidding, I don’t know when) , so it should have ample time to clean up the waves.  Yeah I know I sound overly optimistic.   So what, I’ve had egg on my face before,   I just want fun glassy waves.   Should be offshore till close to noon, after that it’s anyone’s guess.

Link to TS Nicole tracking site: http://www.stormpulse.com/ 

Friday’s looking good for size and glass too.   Looks like the Nor’easter is coming in a lot later like Sunday, and just climbs from there.

See ya out in the morning!

You think I’m obsessive doing these reports eh?   You should see how many times a day I look at all this data while I’m working at home, ha!

Well our combined wind swell and ground swell (all swells are wind swells, but that’s another conversation :),  is holding tight for Thursday morning as a fun session.  Still looks to be chest high for the Cape and Shoulder or better for south of us, Satellite’s great rock breaks …

Winds, are still showing to be offshore,  still in the 10 to 15 mph range, and out of the NW by daybreak, and possibly switching to westerly later in the day.   I cannot remember the last time Florida stayed offshore winds all day, but Weather Channel says yes, but I’ll have to see it.

Normally it blows the swell flat anyhow,  and with Friday showing some good size also and offshore, we’ll just have to wait and see what happens.

Low tide for CCB is 6:47 am for Thursday, high tide at 1:11 pm.    I’m gonna check the end of the street, and if it looks great, and is chest high, then I’m gonna blow off my normal trip down to Hangers or Hightowers even though it’ll be 2 foot bigger there at least.   Nothin better than a great swell at the end of your street.  

By the way, the Nor’easter swell coming in Saturday (or maybe Friday nite) shows a big drop in size, but its still on track and looks like its going to piggy back right on top of the swell we have coming today and tommorrow.

It doesn’t look like it’s going to have much of a period to create the ground swells that we like, but heh, its waves right?

Enough rambling.   Hope to see ya out there!

oldwaverider

The low pressure system has moved up it’s clock a bit and increased projected swell size.  Looks like it’ll start hitting Wednesday by mid morn,  and getting huge, looks like a 9 foot 8 second period swell by late afternoon.  Though that size can fluctuate, sounds exciting, but only time will tell, but seeing that the Fetch of the swell has some decent size to it to generate a swell,  it still looks like Thursday morning will be the session,  4 to 5 feet at 9 to 10 second period with winds back to 10 to 15 mph range offshore, going from NW to West to WNW according to the Weather Channel:

http://www.weather.com/weather/hourbyhour/USFL0089?begHour=6&begDay=273

Friday morning looks like we could have some clean or maybe offshores too, in the waist high plus range.

Oh, and don’t forget about the massive swell rolling in as it stands right now, on Saturday afternoon, and climbs into the 9 to 10 foot range by like Monday.  (High high onshore winds, anywhere from 20 to 40 mph though) But maybe we’ll get a few lulls from the wind to make it ridable for a few sessions.

That’s it for now Folks.   Pray that Thursday is delivered to us.

Later,

Oldwaverider