Up thru today, there has been some nice glassy knee high plus waves at Lori Wilson Park.
But, it looks like for Wednesday and 6 days out, there may be nill. We’ve had a great summer for waves so far (because we’ve had waves 🙂 so I do believe that there will be more surprise swells, be they local wind, ground swell or whatever, and just like last summer, all before the hurricane season really hits.
So for now, here’s a pic of my buddy Rob that lives in Newport Beach, Ca.
Rob and I met and surfed at Hangers when he was in town visiting family.
This photo is Rob surfing Newport Beach in September of 2009.
When some more videos come in from the massive 49 foot 17 second period swell that hit Tasmania, etc. I’ll post the video.
The storm hammered Australia (creating the 50 year storm at Bells Beach , Australia) and it may be sending Kelly Slater to Fiji to surf the massive waves and take him out of the J-Bay event that is scheduled for the regular ASP world tour.
Anyhow, stay stoked, read a surf mag, go to church or fix the dings on your board and change the wax maybe 🙂