Archive for the ‘A summary of How the Waves were’ Category


Was the drive down to Spanish House worth it on Wednesday?  Maybe.  The swell was still iffy, but I heard Tuesday it was pretty excellent.

We made a treck down South and ended up at Satellite Beach.  Got a few.  A few in the water is better than a day in the office, right?

🙂

The video below earns it name damn well.  MIND-BLOWING DROP-INS, BARRELS, WIPE-OUTS…  and just plain phenomenal footage of the January 21st & 22nd JAWS swell of this year. (2016)

 

DANG jaws from ACL Digital Cinema on Vimeo.


Can we expect some fun glassy surf tomorrow, on Tuesday?

Tuesday morning, We should have some chest high glassy wind swell out there, that ought make the chilly water worthwhile 🙂  Winds should be offshore till at least early afternoon, and at daybreak, SW winds, brisk, in the 10-12 mph range, low tide around 8:30 am.

Check out the video clip from last Monday, a nice 14 second rib to chest high left (excuse, I couldn’t.  Every 20 minutes, a head high set would come through which actually had more juice and held up better, but only the longboarders were taking advantage of them.  Why?  The shortboarders would have fallen asleep waiting 🙂

Oldwaverider


The 120 buoy has had some 6 foot readings in the 11 second period range as of 5:00 PM today and around 8 PM, with some 9 second readings mixed in.  So this is part two of the swell we have had,along with a new swell rolling in.

It should be offshore , turning NW in the 4-8 mph range Sunday morning.  High tide around 4:08 am, so by 7:30 it should start having some juice to it, provided no morning sickness is upon us.  I think it will be waist to rib high and fairly glassy down south.  The size up North should be more like the waist high range.

A few photos below of Hurricane Ida and Oldwaverider, shot by my buddy Mike Melito, the big day, but in my old age, some days, I don’t want to battle the 8-12 foot face days paddle out, and in this case, I headed back North to Canaveral, skipping my favorite Satellite Beach Breaks.  So i went soft a few days, 🙂

A Railgrabber backside left, getting ready to lip up

 

A Railgrabber backside left, getting ready to lip up

 

Perfect line right

 

One of the thick lip cleanup sets, that kept us inside a while :) There were some 6-9 foot faces, even up North for us at the Cape with Hurricane Ida


Tuesday , Tropical Storm Kate took a few hours after daybreak to get nice and perhaps awesome.  For those who were patient, here’s a surfing video I shot of friends and others:

 

Lots of Waves coming!  Big chop, but the ground swell in a week will provide some glass 🙂

Oldwaverider (Art)


Surf video of TS/Hurricane Ida at the Cocoa Beach Pier, with Dennis of Core Surf and a couple others.  Beautiful leftovers of Ida 🙂

Nice little wind swell moving in for Sunday morning, with perhaps waist to chest high clean, and maybe, just maybe glassy for an hour or so near daybreak Sunday morning.  Satellite Beach is your best bet to get the size.  If it blows offshore, probably from daybreak , for an hour , then light SE to East winds in the 3-5 mph range, building in speed as the morning grows older 🙂  (hopefully it won’t be a scattered thundershower to throw the winds whacko)

We may have a chest high plus and glassy day between Monday and Wednesday, so watch the wind charts, or check back here.


Sunday morning should be the day!  Saturday was a dissapointment, except maybe for folks at the pier.  But there was still some 50 yard rides for all, in other North breaks.  The problem was caused by a secondary swell, that was aiming North to South from 3 am Saturday till maybe 3 Pm , a swell that was 3.5 feet at @ 6 seconds.  So that was putting the bump in the middle of the swell in the morning , more noticeable down south, but took the juice out of much of the swell even up North.

Here’s a video compilation of Big Wednesday of Ida, with a nice soundtrack by Guerilla Jazz, called “One Day We’ll Be gone”, they are from Maui, Hi.

Sunday , the Hurricane Joaquin has dropped a little in size models, and now it also looks like the “size” arrives at it’s Peak, by around Noon to maybe 2:30 Pm or so.  We have a secondary swell, but a very minimal one pointing south again, but I don’t think it will cause much issue, not like today anyhow. We do have West winds at the 120 buoy, so that could hold back some of the swell.  I think we can look for Shoulder high plus at the Pier, with some bigger sets, and Satellite Beach should see some 10 foot rogue sets, with a lot of 6-9 foot sets.  The winds shoudl be WNW at daybreck around 8 to 10 mph, switching to West down to around 6 to 8 mph.

Monday and Tuesday look big and fun also.  Enjoy, and watch out for the bait fish predators!

Oldwaverider


Friday should be really nice, with waist high plus at the Pier, and Head high plus in Saturday in Satellite Beach.  Winds should be around NW, in a brisk 8 to 12 mph at daybreak.

Here’s another short video clip from Big Wednesday in Satellite Beach.  It started as a near double overhead face, tapering off quick, but made for a nice , perfect ride without almost a coverup.

Saturday, as the Easterly swell begins to piggyback this powerful NE swell we’ve had, and it should start arriving by noon or 1 PM Saturday morning, and all through the night. It should be 2 feet overhead by mid-afternoon, getting close to double overhead by dark.  Winds look to be offshore most of the day.

Sunday morning could be massive, and hit double overhead for the entire morning.  It has a chance of reaching the status of Hurricane Sandy, with Very strong offshore West winds, perhaps in the 12-20 mph range.

Get excited, and grab your best big wave gun!

Oldwaverider


Jetty Park was some chest high sets this morning.  The Pier had a few head high sets.  But this NE swell was blocked by 40% in North  Cocoa Beach and the Jetty.

Typical size that we saw today in Satellite BeachIt was insane power in Satellite Beach and solid 3 to 4 foot overhead (meaning a few 10 foot faces), and barrels were definitely to be had!  Perfect glass SSW to SW winds at 3-6 mph, but coming up the face the winds proabably hit 15-20 mph magnified, so it made for some tough dropins on a light longboard.  But everyone tore it up!

Typical size at Hightowers that we saw today - photo by Mike MelitoThe 120 buoy dropped 3 feet from it’s first big peak yesterday, and even at 5 am today it hit 8.2 feet at 11 or 12 seconds, but now to 6.2 feet at 12 seconds at 10 am.  BUT !!!!  MY PREDICTION IS; that some time between 10 PM and 1 AM, the 120 buoy will jack up to 9 feet and hit 13 seconds, so Wednesday morning which will throw some 10 – 12 foot faces at the two Satellite Beach breaks.  The winds should be perfect Wednesday morning at 4-7 mph WNW.  The power will be frickin awesome, it was today at 5 ft @ 10 seconds,  so 5 ft @ 11 seconds for Wednesday morning will be 10 to 20 percent more power and size 🙂  If the swell doesn’t start climbing by 9 pm at the 120 mile buoy, I will try to put an update if the models change and it doesn’t go huge in the morning.

Thursday morning should be solid chest to 1 foot overhead, North going South with semi brisk 6 NW winds early and picking up to 10 mph perhaps by mid-morning.

Friday looks real strong angled offshore so it will be fairly textured, not as pretty but still nice size, chest high probably.


Is Tuesday morning going to be the best offshore time, or is late afternoon, which is also low tide?  The swell is holding it’s own at the 120 buoy as of 7 PM.  The swell climbed back up to 8.5 feet @ 11 seconds.  Probably either or.  It was big and calm , turning 4 mph onshore this morning with up to 2 foot overhead sets in Satellite Beach.

Below, is another video sample of what we could see on Tuesday, and Wednesday morning.  I shot these videos from Hurricane Gonzalo last year in early October, within 2 weeks of Tuesday and Wednesday.

Tuesday AM,  the winds show mostly light SSW which is sideshore in N CCB and the Cape, and if light, then it can be a nice offshore wind for Satellite Beach.  Weather.com shows 2-5 mph SSW up until 10 AM and then increasing to maybe 8 or 10.  But by 1 PM, it looks to be blowing SW and with a Northeast swell, this is generally  the best conditions for Satellite Beach.  Well, except straight west or NW, depending on the swell.  The point is,  will it be clean and perfect in the AM, or mirror glass and perfect in the afternoon?  Either way,  we should see waist to chest high in the Cape,  chest to shoulder high plus at the Pier with perhaps a few overhead sets.  And 2 to 3 foot overhead sets in Satellite Beach throughout the day.

Wednesday still looks epic all day.   It still looks to be about the same as Tuesday and perhaps better, unless we see the swell comes in early and peaks on Tuesday. For now, the models show to be increasing for Wednesday morning to 5 feet @ 11 seconds.  So a swell that size has the ability to throw double overhead waves.  2 to 3 foot overhead for sure.

Thursday and Friday still look incredible with at least chest high and glassy both mornings.  Gotta love that upper level windshear.


Today, was the best waves I surfed all year, better than the February 12 double overhead swell;  Why?  Because from 7 to 9, the form was perfect, it was top to bottom, all got barrels, and there were plenty of 100 plus yard rides for short board and long board.

Friday morning, I believe will be chest to head high, with some 1 to 2 foot overhead drops.  I belive the winds will be NNW to maybe, just maybe NW offshore from daybreak till around 8:30 AM  . If it is NW, the Satellite Beach will be the best .  If its NNW or North, than north Cocoa Beach, north of the South streets.  North and NNW is onshore for Satellite Beach

The swell is powerful, as you could see some 2 foot overhead drops by 6 PM tonight.