Solid Ground & Windswell mix combined, is headed to us right now, and hit the 20 mile buoy already. The buoy was around 2.6 feet at 10 seconds at 5 AM today (Wednesday morn), and at 12 PM Noon today it hit 6 feet at 10 seconds. More, a little later this afternoon. Friday morning should have chest high plus down south, and waist to chest at the Pier, with very clean lines and clean light winds either offshore or most likely very light onshore. Thursday will be sloppy, but so what, with lots of rain and wind 🙂
Big Windswell coming in this afternoon, with lots of big chop for 3 or 4 days !…Don’t know if u heard about the “Hercules” storm that affected Surf Breaks all around the world.
This Video, of a paddle in session on 10 foot boards at Belharra, France (Basque Country), shows a face 5 or 6 board lengths in height, and some pretty intense attempts to duck dive thru the lip of the wave, but without Good Results!
LOOK AT THIS WALL HE IS DROPPING IN ON!
We have a very cool, unique group of Surfer friends in the neighborhood. And I felt rather obsessed to share the still images and video that I have shot the last few years of as many of us as I could.
I apologize that 3 or 4 people, I was just not around, to get as much photos or video as I could, and in some of the photos, I was forced to shoot footage directly into the Sun, which can definitely degrade the photo or footage. But with that said, I do hope y’all enjoy this, I tried to create in a way to bridge the Young and the Old 🙂
Thanks for the Opportunity,