A little bit of a swell coming in tonight. It’s the ground swell , well almost groundswell part of this wind swell that we have had. The stronger period of the swell will come in sometime after midnight, we hope.
Saturday AM, Should be waist high waves, and rib high plus down south. Satellite likes a NE swell the best. But the winds, will only be slight offshore here till 8 Am ish maybe. When I say offshore, I mean North winds which are around 4 degrees offshore for the pier, and maybe 8 or 10 degrees for Johnson Avenue. Then they turn NE from 8 to 10, so not too bad. South of Minuteman causeway it will probably be totally onshore both days.
Sunday, which is the reason why I’m mentioning this swell, is because it could hit chest high plus for a few hours on Sunday. But the winds are looking to be NE from 6 to 10 mph.
Third day straight, Monday’s model looks chest to shoulder high with my guess head high plus drops in the morning, till maybe noon. Then just a few inches smaller.
Could be fairly glassy too, mostly down south because of SSW to maybe SW winds, but looking more 8-12 mph SSW winds.
Saturday just plain overhead big chop with those times at the pier where it has an illusive clean look too it for an hour or so.
Sunday afternoon, at Playalinda could be hard hard offshore wind with 1 to 3 foot overhead faces. More side chop to slight onshore for the Cape to Minuteman. A little cleaner down south.
Video below, from 2015 Billabong XXL Ride of the Year Entry clip at Jaws, Maui. Grant ‘Twiggy” Baker from South Africa on a nice perfect medium huge Jaws face and a mega long ride 🙂
Get excited folks, waves coming!
How does the weekend look for waves?
A solid wind/maybe mild groundswell (the swell period is only 9 which technically does not qualify for ground swell 🙂 ), but there is enough form to the Swell Period to get excited.
Sunday could have well ovehead big wind chop with a chance of semi-clean waves with strong South winds Sunday late afternoon. PLAYALINDA COULD BE FANTASTIC! Playalinda faces 32 degrees offshore with direct South winds. Sebastian Inlet, 26 degrees offshore with direct South. The rest of our breaks, South is only a teaser 🙂
Monday could be chest to shoulder high with bigger face takeoffs, and semi-glassy with brisk winds SSW. It’s 4 days out, so this is only in the 37.5% chance range, but it has been consistent 2 days running. It could be 75-80 degrees and Sunny , also on Monday!
We’ll post more as the swell gets a day away!
More later, but Sunday morning could bring some fun waves. Waist to chest high, and right now, Weather.com says SW winds turning SSW by noon on Sunday.
I was browsing videos of the Unheard of Perfect and huge swell of Summer of 2012 Cloudbreak, Figi, and the footage of instead back door massive barrels blew my mind. Absolutely amazing footage!
6:50 PM Update Wednesday night. Thursday morning, Now it appears that 8 Am or so, the winds could be NNW to NW for a couple hours, very light. The tide is high tide going low at 6:45 AM, perfect. And the strength of this wind swell is slowly coming in over night. Thursday morning, We could have waist to chest high waves, most likely waist at the Cape and Chest high in Satellite Beach.
Friday morning the swell is supposed to strengthen to 9 second period from 8 seconds expected on Thursday morning. So the winds will blow offshore fairly strong by mid-morning Thursday night/Friday morning, maybe up to 10-12 mph westerly. We have a few hours of NNW to NW Friday morning, so it could be a little better than Thursday morning. Should be stomach to chest high at least down south.
Could we have some rideable surf Sunday afternoon? Yeah!
It hit 15 feet at 10 seconds 3 times since 5 PM tonight. But, the winds are hollowing, a lot faster out there offshore, than they are here. Around 35-40 mph, so it could prevent the swell from hitting till Monday. I’ll give it 50/50 that Sunday afternoon,we have waist to chest high waves, with 15-20 mph NNW winds around 3 PM Sunday.
I put the Swell Period chart in here, so you could see a solid 10 second period almost ground swell here by Sunday afternoon. (if the strong west winds don’t hold it offshore a full day)
Water temp is 76 degrees, and with high winds out there, a vest will be perhaps necessary gear 🙂
Enjoy the cool weather !