Archive for the ‘Portugal – Nazare’ Category


Okay, I stopped surfing for 5 months, but Rip Van Winkle is alive again…

Here’s the challenge, Monday 04-24-17, we have a nice ground swell in the 2-3 foot range at 12-13 seconds, which could produce some head high faces on the biggest sets.  But, we do have high tide at 6:40 AM, for Satellite Beach,  we also have a front coming in from the Gulf it appears that will be sending powerful off shore winds cranking over the 10-15 mph range by perhaps as early as 10 or 11 AM Monday morning, and then increasing throughout the day.

It may be fun all day, but along with powerful west winds, there is also a 50% call for Scattered Thundershowers at 10 AM.

So, get out early, and find the best high tide break, and hopefully we’ll get 2 hours of really fun chest high surf 😉

I just love this feeling of making it, just barely over the top, compliments of magicseaweed.com, the article if you haven’t read it, about Grant Twiggy Baker is here:

One of those moments...Grant Twiggy Baker, at the maiden Nazare event, compliments of magicseaweed.com

Oldwaverider

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Wednesday afternoon, the swell delayed by probably 5 hours finally came in with 5 to 7 foot faces in Satellite, though the winds did pick up a bit in the late afternoon, but I’m sure it was a lot of fun. We did a late 4 PM session at J-Ave, but it was pretty much totally unrideable.  I was kooking severely, but the form was all messed up with sections coming at different angles onto the face of each wave, so only a few percentage of waves, really had a line up here.  My neighbor and a couple of short boarders, go the best results from it.  It was not a good session for longboards, and especially, for a guy kooking at his worst.  But, my morning session in waist to occ chest high waves in Satellite Beach, very clean, was a blast, and the kook was not out then 🙂

This is the best video I have seen of Garrett Mac’s, massive record wave.  Very clean, fairly close up footage by the videographer, and it appears some go pro footage was in there too.

Friday, should have some knee to thigh high leftovers, with maybe some waist high sets in Satellite Beach.  Should be semi to glass early morning.



TUESDAY afternoon is shaping up to be the Gift for us All!  More down below, but for a Tuesday (03/12)  morning 8:10 AM update;  the winds will be lousy at the Cape only until about 3 PM.  (maybe a little before) Why?  South and SSW winds are onshore for us, until SSW becomes more SW.  But since the SSW winds are too strong, it will be sem-choppy anyhow until 2 or 3 PM, my bet is 4 PM.  Then we should see Waist to Chest high at the Cape,  and Chest to Head High Plus in Satellite Beach.  The best time to paddle out, is 4 PM to 5 PM.  Get off work, and enjoy 2 or so hours of big glassy waves, and enjoy Nature’s Happy Hour! (thus ends the Tuesday morning surf update, all below was created the other day )

The video, we created (no Tripod used, apologies)  with some Clips/Highlites from the Saturday portion of the Ron Jon’s Beach n Board Fest, Quiksilver Surf Contest, and more. NOTE: YOUTUBE DEFAULTS AT LOW REZ 360p, SO BE SURE TO CLICK THE 4 FROM RIGHT BOTTOM ICON, FOR HD 720p 🙂

Monday, looks to remain Chest high to over head at the Cape, and still 1 to 3 feet overhead in Satellite Beach, with 9 to 15 mph SE winds, starting low at daybreak and increasing to mid-afternoon.

Tuesday, Chest high plus at the Cape, and Head high to 2 feet overhead in Satellite Beach. Rain in the morning until noon with winds from the South in the 10 to 15 mph range, slowly switching to SSW until 2ish, and hopefully total OFFSHORE AND SW by 2 or 3 PM in the 10 to 12 mph range.  Then the winds start working there way to WSW until dark.  So from 2 PM until dark (which is now around 7:30 or so, yeah daylight savings 🙂

Wednesday and Thursday, still should have some sizeable leftovers, but the winds are looking to be in the 15 to 20 mph NNW range Wednesday morning.

I just had to add this Anderson Cooper, interview of Garrett McNamara, about his 100 foot wave ride on January 29, 2013.

Enjoy and pray for an Epic Tuesday afternoon to hold true!

Oldwaverider


kelly-on-the-bomb-of-the-day-oct-2012-nazarre-portugal-from-magicseaweed.com

kelly-on-the-bomb-of-the-day-oct-2012-nazarre-portugal-from-magicseaweed.com

Friday still on track for 18 to 20 plus foot faces according to the models.  That means 10 to 12 foot backs of the waves, afternoon.  With 50 plus mph onshore winds 🙂

Magicseaweed shows the same swell model size here (not the face size, not the wave back size, but the swell size) check Magicseaweed here.

Bob Freeman’s report shows 10 to 12 foot backs for Friday, down by Satellite here.

PLAN ON HURRICANE WEATHER FRIDAY AND LOTS OF FLOODING!  THIS ONE WILL BE WITHIN 200 MILES OF SHORE AND MAY HAVE A LOT OF SURGE.

Saturday is still looking like 12 to 16 foot faces depending on where ya go and it does drop from daybreak till afternoon fairly fast , with semi-glass NNW winds, but unless ya wait till mid-afternoon, you won’t have winds less than 30 mph.

Sunday, looks like 10 to 12 foot plus faces and semi-glass winds with bigger sets of course.

The Video above is 3 people getting towed into Nazarre, Portugal, Kelly Slater caught the wave of the day, looks like a 30 foot face drop, really nice wall.

This was the place that Garrett caught last year a 9 foot 16 second period swell that produced an 80 foot face wave.  (they get a phenomena called refraction from other effects coming from other breaks North and South of Nazarre)  So normally, the biggest sets would come in at twice the swell size, but Nazarre’s 9 foot swell becomes like a 36 foot swell, and doubles the face heights on the biggest sets.

Start jogging, paddling, eating, sleeping, this could be the biggest waves we have had in years.

Oldwaverider


Billabong XXL Big Wave Awards Nominees 2012 Video plus Lazy Update Wednesday afternoon at 3:30 PM  , Thursday may have some leftovers, but the offshore winds are blowing west out at the 120, so I wouldn’t count on much Thursday morning.  It shows a 1.5 foot ground swell which I have seen a swell that size produce chest high at Perkins, but in this case, I go with knee to waist high, North going South.  Saturday some time the big wind swell starts pushing in, bring big chop waves for the Easter Surf Fest, yeawwwwwwwwwwwww!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Sunday big overhead chop, Waves should be here thru Monday still overhead with reduced onshore winds for Monday, and maybe some Tuesday rib high glass.

Be sure to check out the 48th Annual Easter Surf Fest at Shepard Park and the Ccocoa Beach Pier.

Everything below is from Surf Report that I did on Tuesday April 3rd.

Upcoming Surf for maybe Wednesday waist high somewhere and overhead windswell for Sunday , Monday ………….in a moment 🙂

BIG JAWS/PEAHI PADDLE IN SESSION VIDEO WITH JEFF ROWLEY

This is spectacular video footage of Jaws, from one of the two big paddle in sessions, this one on January 4, 2012, this year.  Wave size was 45 to 60 foot faces, approx.  The music, the insane rides and drops, totally awesome,  especially from Jeff Rowley, the newcomer to Peahi, who is from Australia.  Jeff is nominated for the Billabong XXL Ride of the Year award.

Surf Update;  Tuesday night a maybe ground swell rolls in, and for Wednesday morning, possibly thigh to rib high waves and brisk offshore winds. 

Thursday morning leftovers probably, and then flat till Sunday for the most part.

Sunday could be some overhead chop down south and maybe some chest high stuff at the Cape.  The swell angle is NE,  so we will get some blockage, how much, can’t say 🙂  We should have more big chop with winds backing off on Monday to under 15 mph possibly, but we’ll know more definite on Saturday night.

Oldwaverider


Massive swell hit Nazare, Portugal on October 17 2011.  Billabong XXL 2012 contender.  See the article at Magicseaweed.com

Massive swell hit Nazare, Portugal on October 17 2011. Billabong XXL 2012 contender. See the article at Magicseaweed.com

Big Wind Swell coming Sunday! Offshore winds for Saturday morning , possibly rideable…But before we do that…

Y’all know I love big wave stories.  It’s kind of a surrogate release for me knowing that I’ll never get the big waves I want here, and if I did, I’d most likely break myself anyhow 🙂

The photo below is from a massive swell that hit Nazare, Portugal on October 17th, 2011.  It may be a swell that has an entry for the Billabong XXL 2011-2012 contest.  This swell on the charts showed 9 ft at 15 seconds!  And the funny thing is, they have another on the way for Sunday October 30th, that clocks at 14 feet at 16 seconds at the exact same swell angle.  Check out the article at Magicseaweed.com here.

Saturday,  if the 120 throws a little more our way, (at least 3.5 feet to 4 feet with a low period), then we may have some thigh to waist high waves down South with West winds everywhere, light like 4 to 8 mph.  WSW to NW until 11 or 12 with some early showers to keep you cool.  Slim chance, but there is a chance.

Sunday morning we should have some shoulder high choppy N and NE winds at 20 mph plus, and maybe chest high on the big set waves at the CapeThe swell is coming out of the NE, so we may get blocked out some.

Monday, same big chest to shoulder high chop, 20 mph plus winds ENE.

Tuesday, big winds , maybe some North winds, waist to shoulder, the Cape may block the winds  some early in the morning.  (just a guesstimate since its more than 48 hours out, and I only can have 80% accurate wind direction 48 hrs in advance)

Wednesday, the next possible huge swell starts rolling in on top of the former one.  This swell comes in with a longer period starting at 9 seconds and kicking upt to 12 seconds.  BUT KEEP IN MIND, RENA MAY NOT DO MUCH, AND THE OTHER 2 TD’S MAY OR MAY NOT MATERIALIZE.

So  for now,  just enjoy our big wind swell that should last 3 to 5 days.

Have a great weekend!

oldwaverider