Surf report, Thursday morning for Cape Canaveral n Cocoa Beach (posted 02/17/11)


Our incoming swell should bring us some waist to possible chest high waves at the Cape today, with chest to overhead sets coming in down South, at Patrick and Satellite Beach.  It does look like the swell may not hit the size as the models showed 2 days ago.

I looked at the pier this morning, at dead high tide and it was waist high, with about 5 short-boarders out and 1 long-boarder.  Not a strong swell but hopefully as the swell rolls in thru noon, it may strengthen.  It looked fun though.

The winds will be ramping up today from 10 to 15 mph out of the ESE, but……..Friday morning at daybreak it looks like they will drop to 2 to 4 mph SE so there should be some really fun lines coming in, waist high plus at the Cape and chest high plus down South.

Saturday morning still looks like we will have offshore winds, it looks like 5 to 8 mph NW winds at daybreak, and waist here, and chest high down South. The water should jump up to 65 by Saturday, so toss the suits, and skin it  while soaking in the sun at 78 degrees !

France Basque country gets huge XXL swell. See the great photos at magicseaweed.com
France Basque country gets huge XXL swell. See the great photos at magicseaweed.com

This video is from a swell that just hit France,  a cove/bay called Saint Jean Luis, as you can see it’s at the far SW tip of France as it hits Spain.  See the awesome still shots here.

This has got to be the best close up video footage I have seen of big wave surfing.  The backs of these waves look like 20 foot, and the fronts look to be 20 to 30 foot plus overhead. A couple of the guys, just left that huge swell at Ireland, which was also a Billabong XXL big wave entrant.  The footage is only a minute, but the waves looks so clean, perfect and makeable  (and huge),  that they almost look ridable for the average Joe.

Enjoy the swell we have, the warm sun and the kind of waves that Europe is getting right now.  Later

oldwaverider

Surf report, Wednesday morning for Cape Canaveral n Cocoa Beach (posted 02/16/11)


Recycled photo :) taken by a friend at Perkins, 2009
Recycled photo 🙂 taken by a friend at Perkins, 2009

Our swell took perhaps a 10 hour delay or so to hit the 120 buoy, but it appears to be coming in there now.  At 3 Am today it hit 6 feet at 9 seconds,  and just jumped to 7.5 feet at 9 seconds at 9 Am this morning.

Anyhow, it looks like the bulk of the wave size at the beach should be Thursday morning, sometime between mid-morning at early afternoon,  with winds (according to weather channel for Cocoa Beach) showing to be in the 3 to 6 mph range going from the SE at daybreak to  SSE into mid-morning. (It seems to me that we would really need some stronger onshore winds Thursday morning to bring this swell in , like 10 to 20 mph, but I’m gonna leave weather channels prediction until I see how it looks tonight)

If that holds true,  Thursday  could be some fun overhead lines coming in down south with decent clean form, and waist to shoulder-high waves here at the Cape. Then the winds pick up gradually thru the day Thursday,  10 to 15 mph turning ESE, and then slowing down to 5 to 10 mph at daybreak Friday morning out of the SE.  Again,  it could be decent clean form Friday morning.

Our chance for perfect offshore winds Saturday morning has dimmed some,  GET OUT THERE BEFORE 8 AM! TO GET THE BEST CONDITIONS  because the moving swell chart models show NNW  winds in the 1 to 3 mph range, however I think the way land warms quicker than sea which creates kind of a mini-high pressure may throw NW winds for a couple of hours without any charts telling us so, but I would say get out early Saturday morning to take advantage of the slight offshore winds, because by late morning it should be direct onshore winds in the 5 to 10 range.

Sorry this report got really anal,  but it’s a lot of non-uniform data for this swell.

By the way, I recycled the pic of me at Perkins cause I’ve run out of surf pics, and until some Johnson Avenue area surfers shoot me some jpegs,  I’ll have to use my own , and or some big wave pics going on worldwide.

Be sure to check out the new slide show of a new XXL entrant for Mullaghmore Head in Ireland.  (kind of in the LaHinch Beach area).   Richie Fitzgerald (from the British Isles) got drilled really bad and tore some ligaments in his leg from a massive closeout,  and got held down twice and almost passed out.   One tough individual.  It is being called the Teahupoo of the North Atlantic, with 20 foot barrels inside. See the slide show from magicseaweed.com here.

oldwaverider

Surf report update, Monday morning for Cape Canaveral n Cocoa Beach (posted 02/14/11)


Predicted Swell chart for Wed. 2/16 PM EST, compliments of Magicseaweed.com
Predicted Swell chart for Wed. 2/16 PM EST, compliments of Magicseaweed.com

We have an easterly kinda nor-easterly swell that should be hitting us sometime Tuesday evening, and full size Wednesday probably in the afternoon, hoorah!

However, (always a negative to go with it in surf reports),  the swell appears to be a strong ground swell but big chop, until my guess Saturday and possibly Sunday morning.  The winds may only be 10 to 15 mph by Wednesday after noon, slowing down from 15 to 20 in the morning.

The swell is coming mostly from the east and should be dropping overhead chop by Wednesday morning,  we will probably see some head high waves in the Cape, with overhead waves in Satellite Beach and 2nd light.  By mid-afternoon, the winds should be down to 10 to 15 mph, and the easiest paddle out time with cleanest conditions Wednesday would be around 3 PM. (it’s low going high at that time, although high going low is always better, but at least the paddle out into the chop will be the most smooth at 3 PM.  high going low it will be dark out so that’s a no brainer 🙂

Conditions change as the storm speeds up, slows down and other factors of course.  (the classic C.Y.A. statement 🙂

Saturday could be chest high plus and glassy down south.  And on Friday, Playalinda could have some offshore winds there since direct South winds in Playalinda are 32 degrees off shore, and Friday it looks like the winds turn southerly in the mid-day around 6 to 10 mph.

Be ready for some glass anytime between Friday and Monday, from waist-high to head high depending on how well the swell does.  We’ll provide updates as it moves closer to our epic surf shores.

oldwaverider

Surf report update, Saturday morning for Cape Canaveral n Cocoa Beach (posted 02/05/11), with leftover Hurricane Earl photos.


Hurricane Earl, Sept. 2nd, 2010, nice clean right, taken by Mike Melito.
Hurricane Earl, Sept. 2nd, 2010, nice clean right, taken by Mike Melito.

Asleep at the wheel.  Nahhhh, it’s not this good today, but we do have a small small ground swell happening.   This photo is Hurricane Earl!

A small ground swell crept in and I wasn’t paying attention.  It came in from the east, but the winds delivering it were from the south, so it’s just barely hitting the beaches.

The good thing is, there may be a few thigh to waist high waves at mid-tide, high going low, around 12 Noon, I can’t guarantee it, but I am going to take a drive down there with my board.  The winds are SSW right now, pretty strong so it may keep it from even breaking, but then again, it may back off to 10-12 mph SW, hopefully earlier than 4 or 5 o’clock.

Satellite Beach, O’club again, should sport the most size, so I figure to head down there after we get the photographer of these leftover Hurricane Earl pictures moved into his new Condo in Cocoa Beach.

I figured, we’ve had kind of a lull here for a while, so I’d post the rest of the Sept. 2nd, 2010 Hurricane Earl photos that Mike took at the pier. Enjoy the photos and hopefully the brief

I believe this is our local 'Noah",  8 year old perhaps, often out with Dad.  This kid has No Fear.  The stuff he paddles for and tears it up too.
I believe this is our local 'Noah", 8 year old perhaps, often out with Dad. This kid has No Fear. The stuff he paddles for and tears it up too.
Perfect wall and all alone.
Perfect wall and all alone.
Breakin out.
Breakin out.

swell/surf today.

Tale end of a nice left.
Tale end of a nice left.
A late drop right, but he made it.
A late drop right, but he made it.
Perfect backside right.
Perfect backside right.
A nice slopey Florida right.
A nice slopey Florida right.
Grazing a perfect wall with his hand.
Grazing a perfect wall with his hand.
Milking it for all it's worth...
Milking it for all it's worth...
Perfect left, with an even fatter looking one outside.
Perfect left, with an even fatter looking one outside.
A nice foamy late drop with plenty of makeable wave left.
A nice foamy late drop with plenty of makeable wave left.
Almost a bowl there, certainly a little overhanging lip there.
Almost a bowl there, certainly a little overhanging lip there.
Setting up shop.  Apparently distracted our photographer :)
Setting up shop. Apparently distracted our photographer 🙂
The adrenaline of a nice clean face...and no one else on it.
The adrenaline of a nice clean face...and no one else on it.

The biggest wave ever surfed and caught on film this day, January 28, 1998, by surfer Ken Bradshaw.


The biggest wave ever ridden captured on film, by Ken Bradshaw, January 28, 1998.  Estimated 85 foot face wave.

oldwaverider

The Jay at Mavericks for 2010-11 (posted 01/27/11)


Shawn Dollar won the 2010 Billabong XXL Monster Paddle in, on a "Record paddle in anywhere" 55 foot face paddle in at Mavericks.  Phil Gibbs , photographer
Shawn Dollar won the 2010 Billabong XXL Monster Paddle in, on a "Record paddle in anywhere" 55 foot face paddle in at Mavericks. Phil Gibbs , photographer

I don’t see much in the way of waves for the next week.   When I did my morning run to the pier, it did look knee-high and perfect glass, with one guy out.  Not enough of a dopamine high to get me out there, but it did look rideable.

Okay,  since I don’t have any swells to talk about, I do want to remind y’all that our 10x winner Kelly Slater is waiting for the swell to hit Mavericks so the Jay at Mavericks contest and memorium can take place.   Take a look at the surfer line up here: http://www.thejayatmavericks.com/Surfers/ .

Read the story about Jay and why they hold the event.  It’s not the same type of memorium as the “Eddie”, but Jay is still someone we can look at as one of those core soul big wave surfers.

Slater has hinted that he may be spending his time in the “Big Wave” events, and who better than the Michael Jordan of Surfing (my apologies for the ridiculous but necessary cliché)   to take his 10x winning spirit along with the balls of Laird Hamilton and the many other big wave masters, to the next level of his awesome career,  and see him compete at the Mavericks break for the 3rd time in his career.

What can I say,  I’m an idiot for watching big wave surfing,  and am just mind blown how someone can surf both worlds so incredibly as Kelly Slater.

The photo here is a picture of Shawn Dollar (who will be competing in the Jay at Mavericks) who not only won the Monster Paddle in contest for Billabong XXL 2010, but also set a new record for the largest wave ever paddled into, a 55 foot estimated face size, breaking the previous record of 52 foot.  Where else to break the record but in the freezing cold deep waters of Mavericks, Half Moon Bay, Ca. This photo is from the collections of Phil Gibbs, photographer at Flickr.com .

Check out the awesome video with waves and interviews at thejayatmavericks site. http://www.thejayatmavericks.com/

Just another soft-hearted adrenaline junkie who loves watching big waves 🙂

oldwaverider (Art)

Surf report update, Friday night for Cape Canaveral n Cocoa Beach (posted 01/21/11)


Friday nite or Saturday morning actually, 12 Am, swell chart from magicseaweed.com
Friday nite or Saturday morning actually, 12 Am, swell chart from magicseaweed.com

I’m giving about a 20% chance of us having waves Saturday morning.   Maybe thigh to waits high if we do,  but the NE ‘ster above is pushing west to east, and even though we see some arrows coming from the east-southeast,  the area of swell is very undefined.

When you look at the moving period chart,  you can really see the inconsistency of any decent size piece of water providing a large swell area.  It goes from dark to light, but scattered all over.  The 3rd image in this post, shows the Combined Swell Breakdown chart, and you can see at 6 and 9 am that a substantial wind swell in the 4rth column is listed.

The offshore winds which probably start just after midnight,  are going to be blowing probably 10 to 15 mph out of the WNW in the Am,  and at that kind of speed, it could very easily hold a weak swell way off the shoreline.  This may create the 3rd swell in the last image below, that shows a wind swell blowing from the shoreline, out to sea.  For a look at the Cocoa Beach Surf Report page of magicseaweed.com here.

Sorry I sound kind of negative on this, but on the bright side we could have a little sun for a couple of hours from 9 to 11 before the big cloudy, 20 mph winds from the west pick up.

Friday night or Saturday 12 Am, moving period chart from magicseaweed.com
Friday night or Saturday 12 Am, moving period chart from magicseaweed.com

If something does make it to the beach, high tide is around 9:15 or so,  so either dawn patrol or 11:30 Am is the best time to head out for the tides.

Fingers crossed, but I won’t be too optimistic 🙂

oldwaverider

This chart shows 3 combined swells, and the very last column on the right shows a wind swell from shore to sea fighting back the incoming swell.
This chart shows 3 combined swells, and the very last column on the right shows a wind swell from shore to sea fighting back the incoming swell.

How the waves were Tuesday (1/18) afternoon, and Sunday (1/16) dawn patrol for Cape Canaveral n Cocoa Beach (posted Wednesday morning 1/19/11)


Larger Outside sets were waist high, fun thigh high wave for this 2nd week of Dec. 2010 surf session at Hangers.
Larger Outside sets were waist high, fun thigh high wave for this 2nd week of Dec. 2010 surf session at Hangers.

Tuesday (1/18) was really fun at O’Club. It didn’t look ridable at the end of Johnson Ave., but at 12 Pm, I could see that it was perfect 1 foot glass at Johnson, which meant knee to thigh high glass toward Satellite Beach.  And it was!

I laughed my butt off, when I saw like 12 or so guys out (mostly short-boarders), and 2nd light parking lot was full!
Anyhow,  I had 4 or 5 really fun rides, and every other one was a nice long ride with totally carve-able walls.  The guy I was surfing with, was riding a 6’1 fish, and was getting 4, 5 cutbacks off his waves, riding many all the way in.  And it was breaking outside surprisingly.  He got like 15 rides in the hour and 20 minutes we were out.

Sunday was really fun at Hightowers, (my buddies I tried to get to head down for a South session with me, laughed at me, cause the Port and Pier cams, and 2nd light cams weren’t showing anything 🙂  but the sets were thigh to many waist high waves, (the bigger set wave drops were chest high, just to paint a picture for you).  As I mentioned on Friday (1/14) Friday report,  because the NE swell angle was pretty steep, the Cape and the Pier would probably be blocked out. And it definitely was.   Saturday report also for Sunday.

When I checked the pier, Sunday Am, at 7:15, it was perfect glass with NW winds, very small,  not ridable and no-one out.

It wasn’t perfect glass at Hightowers, but semi-glass, because the NNW to NW winds are not the best for a South wind break.

It was a ball for 40 minutes,  but then the arthritus set in, and I was a slug with no spring for the next hour,  then I headed home.   Those 40 minutes were well worth the session 🙂

Later,

oldwaverider

Surf report update, Saturday morning for Cape Canaveral n Cocoa Beach (01/15/11)


From magicseaweed.com,  a huge Oregon swell w up to 25' to 35' face heights, early Jan. this year, Justin Howard setting up to backdoor the peak.  Some did tow in, and a couple others waited for the glass, and paddled into these waves.
From magicseaweed.com, a huge Oregon swell w up to 25' to 35' face heights, early Jan. this year, Justin Howard setting up to backdoor the peak. Some did tow in, and a couple others waited for the glass, and paddled into these waves.

Sunday morning for Brevard, is still looking like waist high waves, and 6-8 mph NW winds at daybreak, and turning N by 9 am so get out early.

The air temp should be around 55 and clear/sunny by 7:30 Am, and water temp 61 by the Port and 62 down south.  High tide is 4:30 Am so being in the water by 7:30 latest gives you the best of our tides , high going low, and the winds should be offshore till maybe 9 Am.

Waist high plus for Satellite Beach.  Hope to see you out!

This photo on the left was from a swell that hit Oregon , Nelscott Reef,  they had 25-35′ face heights, and most of the guys did tow in, but a couple of the other guys waited until the winds went perfect offshore, and then did paddle in.

I love the closeup perspective of this shot as he’s getting ready to hammer down the face.  Check out the 8 shot sequence at magicseaweed.com If only Florida had the type of ocean floor bottom to give these to us 🙂

I’ll take what we get.  Later on.

oldwaverider

Surf report update, Friday nite for Cape Canaveral n Cocoa Beach (01/14/11)


Fun waist high swell on 12/10/10, at Hangers, taken by a friend.
Fun waist high swell on 12/10/10, at Hangers, taken by a friend.

I mentioned the other day that this Nor’easter will throw remants at us for late Saturday, but mostly Sunday morning and possibly Monday.

It should bring some nice waist high waves from South Cocoa Beach, and further south on Sunday morning.  It may touch the Cape, but the swell angle is pretty steep.

The winds as of 8 tonight are showing out of the North at 3 to 4 mph by 6 am Sunday morning and turning NNE by mid-morning.

With 3 or 4 mph winds, the North wind breaks of CCB may work, and even Satellite which even though its a South wind area, should still be good.    I believe (I’ll stick my neck out a little here :),  and say that Sunday morning for 2 or 3 hours we may have NNW or NW winds until 9 or so.   With the warming air temp from 43 Friday morn to 54 at daybreak Sunday morn, that warming land mass may cause the winds to blow offshore a couple hours.

Water temp should be 60-61,  air temp should be 60 by 9 AM.  Best time to get out is 7:30 AM,  with high tide  going low, with 3 to 4 mph N to NW offshore winds until 9 or 9:30.   Of course I’m anal – retentive !  That ain’t gonna change 🙂

We may have some sunshine too, at least in and out!  Hey, if you’re stressed out, or life is sucking for you, and you need to get some peace,  then after a morning surf session, please visit Christ Lutheran Church with Pastor Greg at 11 Am.  Casual beach shorts work fine, no ties…  Check it out here.

Have a fun Sunday early morning sesh.

oldwaverider