Our swell took perhaps a 10 hour delay or so to hit the 120 buoy, but it appears to be coming in there now. At 3 Am today it hit 6 feet at 9 seconds, and just jumped to 7.5 feet at 9 seconds at 9 Am this morning.
Anyhow, it looks like the bulk of the wave size at the beach should be Thursday morning, sometime between mid-morning at early afternoon, with winds (according to weather channel for Cocoa Beach) showing to be in the 3 to 6 mph range going from the SE at daybreak to SSE into mid-morning. (It seems to me that we would really need some stronger onshore winds Thursday morning to bring this swell in , like 10 to 20 mph, but I’m gonna leave weather channels prediction until I see how it looks tonight)
If that holds true, Thursday could be some fun overhead lines coming in down south with decent clean form, and waist to shoulder-high waves here at the Cape. Then the winds pick up gradually thru the day Thursday, 10 to 15 mph turning ESE, and then slowing down to 5 to 10 mph at daybreak Friday morning out of the SE. Again, it could be decent clean form Friday morning.
Our chance for perfect offshore winds Saturday morning has dimmed some, GET OUT THERE BEFORE 8 AM! TO GET THE BEST CONDITIONS because the moving swell chart models show NNW winds in the 1 to 3 mph range, however I think the way land warms quicker than sea which creates kind of a mini-high pressure may throw NW winds for a couple of hours without any charts telling us so, but I would say get out early Saturday morning to take advantage of the slight offshore winds, because by late morning it should be direct onshore winds in the 5 to 10 range.
Sorry this report got really anal, but it’s a lot of non-uniform data for this swell.
By the way, I recycled the pic of me at Perkins cause I’ve run out of surf pics, and until some Johnson Avenue area surfers shoot me some jpegs, I’ll have to use my own , and or some big wave pics going on worldwide.
Be sure to check out the new slide show of a new XXL entrant for Mullaghmore Head in Ireland. (kind of in the LaHinch Beach area). Richie Fitzgerald (from the British Isles) got drilled really bad and tore some ligaments in his leg from a massive closeout, and got held down twice and almost passed out. One tough individual. It is being called the Teahupoo of the North Atlantic, with 20 foot barrels inside. See the slide show from magicseaweed.com here.