Cape Canaveral surf report update, Thursday night (12/23/2010)

A Brevard County Christmas ground swell.
A Brevard County Christmas ground swell.

Friday we have a 4 to 5 foot 10-11 second period ground swell coming in. (Actually we will see some in the AM, but the full force in late afternoon).   At daybreak, The first part of the Nor’easter swell, probably North winds, at 10-15 mph turning NNE by 8 or 9 Am.  Size ought to be maybe thigh high at the Cape, with chest high plus down South. In the afternoon the winds should be strong onshore 15 plus mph NNE winds.  The winds may start to slow down by evening.  Saturday should be the glass.

Christmas morning, Saturday at daybreak,  should be glassy, thigh high waves I hope at the Cape, and chest to shoulder high waves in Satellite Beach.  We should have some SW winds 2 to 5 mph until maybe 10 am, increasing to 10 mph by noonish, turning toward the South.

The tough choice is when to paddle out.   Low tide is 4 Am, so daybreak would be mid-tide, the air temp should be 50-52 degrees (not to bad) , and WSW winds around 5 mph. The best tide will be for a noon paddle out (high tide at 10:30, high going low which is best), but by noon the winds could already be out of the South.  But maybe they’ll hang in there from the SSW.

Merry Christmas and have a great Christmas surf session!


Billabong XXL 2011 Midseason Highlight Clip (12/23/10) posted

Okay, now we’re caught up on the Billabong XXL Big Wave videos.

Check out the new entrant.  The boys from Ireland have a lot to show for the emerging monsters.  Between some of the breaks around LaHinch Beach around the NNW point of Ireland, they have had some mega 40 to 50 foot face waves in the last 12 to 18 months of La Nina surf season.

Also, check out Shipstern Bluff.   I have asked myself, why do those guys surf there, since the moment they hit that part of the wave were it seems like a big chasm or black hole in the ocean floor appears, and thus they have the most incredible wipeouts cause they’re not expecting a sudden free fall at the peak of the barrel of the wave.

Then it dawned on me;  that’s why they like it,  it’s like having a cinderblock laying at the bottom of a skatepark bowl, forcing them to “think on their feet” if you will.   So watch the different way these crazies choose to respond to the “black hole” part of the wave at Shipstern Bluff, Tasmania.

Also, “Cloudbreak” in Fiji, is a new entrant.  Another 40 foot face entry, and especially the paddle in wipeout in what looks like a 40 foot plus face.   I bet that one wins the wipeout of the year award.  Anyone that has the balls to keep on paddling for that one, then goes one step crazy further by grabbing the rail of the board in order to make the straight/angled drop,  they have my vote for the best and most ballzy calculated attempt and then wipeout !

Last,  Chile had a massive year, that 45 – 50 foot face in their freezing cold water gains the same respect as freezing Mavericks,  Prowlers and Oregon’s last 50 – 60 foot wave video shown on Seaweed not long ago.

Enjoy, and I hope ya don’t mind me posting these things.   I love watching huge waves.

Now that the rumor is out that Kelly Slater may start participating in some of this kind of surfing, I’m even more fired up.   Anyone that can terrorize the competition in the ASP regular surf tour, and then turn around the next week and paddle into a 30 – 40 foot face at the “Eddie”, is certainly one ballsy individual.