Archive for the ‘California – Mavericks, Cortes Bank’ Category


I just felt this video should be in my Big Wave collection of  videos.

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IS THIS THE BIGGEST RECORDED WAVE EVER PADDLE INTO? … Well, watch the video 🙂

>>>Published on May 6, 2013by Billabong (thus the quotes/arrows 🙂  )

Shawn Dollar (Santa Cruz, CA) describes what led up to his 61-foot world record wave at Cortes Bank on December 21, 2012. At the 2013 Billabong XXL Big Wave Awards, the ride earned Dollar earned $30,000 by sweeping both the Pacifico Paddle Award and the XXL Biggest Wave title. For more info see the event website at http://www.BillabongXXL.com.<<&lt;

Wednesday, we have a little more surf coming in perhaps, a little 2 to 3 foot wind swell.  Today looks to be some knee high glass at the Pier for the right tide.

mothers-day-Hi_momHAPPY MOTHER’S DAY to all You incredible Mom’s out there !


Greg Long Big Wave World Tour Champion 2012-2013, Excellent video, covering a wide variety in Venue.  Chile to Mavericks, to Nelscot Reef Oregon and More.


There should be something rideable between Saturday and Sunday, but not enough to give a report.  So instead…

I share this Phenomenal Video of Mavericks in 2009, a “Reality” type of video, which shows up close, the brutality of Going over the Falls at Mavericks, California.  What happens, if you don’t make the paddle out, outside, and much more.  Amazing, up close footage 🙂


Billabong XXL Big Wave Awards Nominees 2012 Video plus Lazy Update Wednesday afternoon at 3:30 PM  , Thursday may have some leftovers, but the offshore winds are blowing west out at the 120, so I wouldn’t count on much Thursday morning.  It shows a 1.5 foot ground swell which I have seen a swell that size produce chest high at Perkins, but in this case, I go with knee to waist high, North going South.  Saturday some time the big wind swell starts pushing in, bring big chop waves for the Easter Surf Fest, yeawwwwwwwwwwwww!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Sunday big overhead chop, Waves should be here thru Monday still overhead with reduced onshore winds for Monday, and maybe some Tuesday rib high glass.

Be sure to check out the 48th Annual Easter Surf Fest at Shepard Park and the Ccocoa Beach Pier.

Everything below is from Surf Report that I did on Tuesday April 3rd.

Upcoming Surf for maybe Wednesday waist high somewhere and overhead windswell for Sunday , Monday ………….in a moment 🙂

BIG JAWS/PEAHI PADDLE IN SESSION VIDEO WITH JEFF ROWLEY

This is spectacular video footage of Jaws, from one of the two big paddle in sessions, this one on January 4, 2012, this year.  Wave size was 45 to 60 foot faces, approx.  The music, the insane rides and drops, totally awesome,  especially from Jeff Rowley, the newcomer to Peahi, who is from Australia.  Jeff is nominated for the Billabong XXL Ride of the Year award.

Surf Update;  Tuesday night a maybe ground swell rolls in, and for Wednesday morning, possibly thigh to rib high waves and brisk offshore winds. 

Thursday morning leftovers probably, and then flat till Sunday for the most part.

Sunday could be some overhead chop down south and maybe some chest high stuff at the Cape.  The swell angle is NE,  so we will get some blockage, how much, can’t say 🙂  We should have more big chop with winds backing off on Monday to under 15 mph possibly, but we’ll know more definite on Saturday night.

Oldwaverider


What’s down the Pipe on our local incoming Surf?…………….In a sec :),    a great Big Wave Video of 6 time Billabong XXL Award winner Shane Dorian.

In 2010, Shane took a severe wipeout at Mavericks, and returns to the place of destruction again, Mavericks.  He is 40 years old and doing Big Waves strong as you’ll see in some probably 40 foot face waves.  Hope you Enjoy!

Incoming Surf;  Tuesday, high winds starts bringing a ENE swell, that should turn into a ground swell by Wednesday morning, and on Thursday most likely giving us the glassy Waist high surf at the Cape with some decent power, and rib to Chest high sets in Satellite Beach.  This is a 1 1/2 day swell, but it should be big Wednesday chest to overhead, going from the Cape to Satellite.  The winds will be onshore Wednesday, but it looks like they start to lay down to 10 mph onshore Wednesday afternoon.  We won’t have accurate winds until Monday and Tuesday for Wed and Thurs surf.

Thursday is looking to be the classic day, so Tuesday and Wednesday we’ll update, to see if it holds true to the models.

And……..get excited, it’s a ENE swell without the cold air!  Water temps around 76 ° ,  I went out the other day, around 10 AM, and there was absolutely know reason for a wetsuit no matter how long ya stayed out.

Oldwaverider


A VIDEO IN MEMORY OF MARK FOO AND SION MILOSKY

I had to share this video in case y’all didn’t catch it on Magicseaweed.com or on Vimeo.

It is not a clip that shows the long magical rides and drops at Mavericks.  It translates the feel of a huge wave wipeout, and what it’s like to come close to drowning after a 2 wave hold down, etc, spoken from the best Big Wave Surfers on the Planet (minus a few like Laird Hamilton).

I’ve had my near drownings in 3 places I can remember, and it was only 6 foot or so overhead waves;  Ponce Inlet in the 80’s (getting sucked into the bolders by the most powerful rip I ever felt),  Acapulco in the 80’s  (getting sucked out to sea in a part of Mexico that I had never surfed before, about an hour or so from Mexico Pipelind/Escondido)  and Wrightsville Beach, NC in the 90’s (also surfing alone and getting a hold down and then sucked out to sea from a fast building swell 😉 .   So thus I share the extreme of Mavericks near drownings with big wave surf and for the two very special Big Wave Surfers, one Sion Milosky whom we lost a little over a year ago, who left a beautiful wife and daughter behind in Hawaii. The other was Mark Foo, in the early 90’s, also from Hawaii.

Surf Satruday;  I give it 70 percent “gut” chance that we will have knee to thigh high semi-glassy surf at the Cape, and thigh to rib high surf in Satellite Beach and glassy, with 8 to 12 mph SSW winds that will probably end before noon.

There were some chest high waves today and very fun for a longboard at Hightowers.

There were some chest high waves today and very fun for a longboard at Hightowers.

The waves today were solid waist to a few chest high sets, almost glassy, but mushy, longboard only.  Really fun, long clean glassy rides, totally carvable, though it was 6 mph SSE winds.  The 3 short boarders out, got maybe 50 to 100 foot rides with a lot of pumping required.  Here is a couple of shots from today at Hightowers.  For short boards it was waist high for where they could catch them, and maybe a drop and one cut.  Longboard waves had a few chest high sets,  and some fairly long rides. But , when I got out of the water, there were only 3 short boarders out 😉

There were some chest high waves today and very fun for a longboard at Hightowers.

There were some chest high waves today and very fun for a longboard at Hightowers.

Beyond that, nothing to mention, except the 1 or 2 day possible big ground swell in the middle of next week.

Hope ya enjoy the Video!

Have a great weekend,

Oldwaverider


Okay, now we’re caught up on the Billabong XXL Big Wave videos.

Check out the new entrant.  The boys from Ireland have a lot to show for the emerging monsters.  Between some of the breaks around LaHinch Beach around the NNW point of Ireland, they have had some mega 40 to 50 foot face waves in the last 12 to 18 months of La Nina surf season.

Also, check out Shipstern Bluff.   I have asked myself, why do those guys surf there, since the moment they hit that part of the wave were it seems like a big chasm or black hole in the ocean floor appears, and thus they have the most incredible wipeouts cause they’re not expecting a sudden free fall at the peak of the barrel of the wave.

Then it dawned on me;  that’s why they like it,  it’s like having a cinderblock laying at the bottom of a skatepark bowl, forcing them to “think on their feet” if you will.   So watch the different way these crazies choose to respond to the “black hole” part of the wave at Shipstern Bluff, Tasmania.

Also, “Cloudbreak” in Fiji, is a new entrant.  Another 40 foot face entry, and especially the paddle in wipeout in what looks like a 40 foot plus face.   I bet that one wins the wipeout of the year award.  Anyone that has the balls to keep on paddling for that one, then goes one step crazy further by grabbing the rail of the board in order to make the straight/angled drop,  they have my vote for the best and most ballzy calculated attempt and then wipeout !

Last,  Chile had a massive year, that 45 – 50 foot face in their freezing cold water gains the same respect as freezing Mavericks,  Prowlers and Oregon’s last 50 – 60 foot wave video shown on Seaweed not long ago.

Enjoy, and I hope ya don’t mind me posting these things.   I love watching huge waves.

Now that the rumor is out that Kelly Slater may start participating in some of this kind of surfing, I’m even more fired up.   Anyone that can terrorize the competition in the ASP regular surf tour, and then turn around the next week and paddle into a 30 – 40 foot face at the “Eddie”, is certainly one ballsy individual.

oldwaverider