Archive for the ‘Teahupoo’ Category


Small swell coming in Wednesday and Thursday morning, maybe thigh high down south, with 8 to 10 mph onshore winds Wednesday morning, and maybe light SSE winds Thursday morning, and a slight chance of offshore Thursday morning.  Nothing much, but the right tide, you might get a few fun little rides !

Chuck, on a sweet bomb in Nicaragua, back in 2012.

Chuck, on a sweet bomb in Nicaragua, back in 2012.

 

Chuck got a shot off of Oldwaverider, with his Go Pro Camera, at our favorite break, Hightowers

Chuck got a shot off of Oldwaverider, with his Go Pro Camera, at our favorite break, Hightowers

 

THIS IS ONE BALLSY TEAHUPOO KITE SURFING SESSION BY A FEW CRAZIES!

Have a Great Week!   And so long to brother Chuck McDonald, 18 months of balls to the Water and a Good Friend 🙂

Oldwaverider


Mike buddy Mike, behind his Cocoa Beach home, April 2012

Mike buddy Mike, behind his Cocoa Beach home, April 2012

Tuesday as of tonight, is looking to be a 3.5 foot swell 10 seconds, which may be a ground swell.  Which could mean, Waist to chest at the Cape and Pier, and chest to shoulder high in Satellite Beach.

Right now the winds are showing SSW in the 5 to 10 mph range.

Maybe something like to the left for the Cape.

An awesome collection of footage from Teahupoo this year, incredible drops, Laird Hamilton SUP surfing, and lots of Gnarly wipeouts 🙂

TEAHUPOO MAI 2013 BEST OF from gilles HUCAULT on Vimeo.


I posted this, because I forgot to a couple years ago when I first saw this.

This is the most intense wave ever videod at Teahupoo, even to this day, Laird Hamilton in 2000.

THIS WAS BEFORE ANYONE WAS TRYING TEAHUPOO.  ESPECIALLY AT THIS SIZE.  NO CONTESTS


Billabong XXL Big Wave Awards Nominees 2012 Video plus Lazy Update Wednesday afternoon at 3:30 PM  , Thursday may have some leftovers, but the offshore winds are blowing west out at the 120, so I wouldn’t count on much Thursday morning.  It shows a 1.5 foot ground swell which I have seen a swell that size produce chest high at Perkins, but in this case, I go with knee to waist high, North going South.  Saturday some time the big wind swell starts pushing in, bring big chop waves for the Easter Surf Fest, yeawwwwwwwwwwwww!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Sunday big overhead chop, Waves should be here thru Monday still overhead with reduced onshore winds for Monday, and maybe some Tuesday rib high glass.

Be sure to check out the 48th Annual Easter Surf Fest at Shepard Park and the Ccocoa Beach Pier.

Everything below is from Surf Report that I did on Tuesday April 3rd.

Upcoming Surf for maybe Wednesday waist high somewhere and overhead windswell for Sunday , Monday ………….in a moment 🙂

BIG JAWS/PEAHI PADDLE IN SESSION VIDEO WITH JEFF ROWLEY

This is spectacular video footage of Jaws, from one of the two big paddle in sessions, this one on January 4, 2012, this year.  Wave size was 45 to 60 foot faces, approx.  The music, the insane rides and drops, totally awesome,  especially from Jeff Rowley, the newcomer to Peahi, who is from Australia.  Jeff is nominated for the Billabong XXL Ride of the Year award.

Surf Update;  Tuesday night a maybe ground swell rolls in, and for Wednesday morning, possibly thigh to rib high waves and brisk offshore winds. 

Thursday morning leftovers probably, and then flat till Sunday for the most part.

Sunday could be some overhead chop down south and maybe some chest high stuff at the Cape.  The swell angle is NE,  so we will get some blockage, how much, can’t say 🙂  We should have more big chop with winds backing off on Monday to under 15 mph possibly, but we’ll know more definite on Saturday night.

Oldwaverider


I try to keep the Titles of my posts brief and to the point…;)

What can I say?  A lot of stuff going on, such as my OBSESSION WITH BIG WAVE VIDEOS, when YouTube and/or Magicseaweed.com release the Mid-Year highlites for the Billabong XXL Awards (2012 now) I gotta put that one on the front 🙂

Surf report update in a minute…

In case y’all don’t get to keep up with the contests on the regular normal wave ASP tour,  or keep up with the XXL Big Wave tour, this has been a record year for the world’s great big wave surf breaks.  Teahupoo (of whom our local legend Kelly Slater won the ASP event),  and the fact that he skipped the J-Bay event offering 6 foot waves in order to catch some 30 to 40 foot plus tow in surf at Fiji for the epic 50 year storm, 49 foot swell on the charts,  that swept into the Tasman Sea.   That storm hammered  Australia, and brought the most incredible waves to Cloudbreak, Restaurants  and Tavarua Fiji.

As I mentioned in previous posts,  Kelly skipped the J-Bay event and got the best warm up session in Fiju that probably gave him more confidence to nail it at the Teahupoo ASP event where they had to shut down the event, and let the tow in guys have fun, until the waves hit a normal 10 to 15 foot for the regular contest event.  (not like he really needed confidence, but surfing Teahupoo  takes more character than any other surf break on the planet, not diminishing Mavericks in any way 🙂

Okay, the long wind ceases, surf in Brevard………………….

Today (Wednesday)a foot or so overhead in Satellite Beach and chest high plus at the Cape. (probably a few head high sets here at the Cape).  The winds should be in the 10 to 15 mph NE direction, so right at dead high tide (around 2 PM),  you can catch the easiest paddle out,  the cleanest time of day for the faces,  the best shoulders while it is high tide.

Thursday, probably a foot bigger down South maybe some 2 foot overhead waves, and with a lot more power because the ground swell rolls in after midnight Wednesday night/Thursday morning.  We ought to see some head high waves at the Cape, and the winds ought to be mild onshore, like 5 to 6 mph NE all day.   So it could be real fun Thursday.

Friday, still looks like the epic day!  Head high to maybe a foot or so overhead in Satellite Beach and solid chest high plus at the Cape.  The swell does drop off a bit late Friday but not much. If the wind models hold out, it looks to be 4 to 6 mph offshore winds out of the West to SW.  Yowwwwwwww!!!

Saturday,  a new swell piggybacks the departing Friday swell with strong North to NNW winds, probably 15 to 25 mph.  but it could be head high and semi-glass up North in the morning, and by dinner time, we may be seeing some 8 to 10 foot faces down South.

Sunday morning ought to have some large sets come in with 8 foot faces at the Cape, and probably some 10 foot plus faces down South.  But the winds (as a guess out of the 48 hour window),  are looking to be NNW and over 20 mph, but it could be really sweet at the Pier and the Jetties.

I don’t see any drop in swells for a week out,  so eat well, bring a rash guard at least for Friday morning, because it may be around 62 to 64 degrees in the morning, not cold, but with the water temp lingering only about 2 degrees above spring water temps, it may be a little chilly.

Get excited, and don’t forget about the Cape Canaveral Friday Fest Street Party.  Here is their info below:

The next Friday Fest is scheduled for November 4th from 6:00 pm – 10:00 pm. Activities will include a variety of food vendors, an assortment of novelty & craft vendors, children’s activities including bounce houses, a giant slide & games, live entertainment along with beer & wine.

Live entertainment will feature “Entasy” on Taylor Avenue & “Lonnie & Delinda” on Poinsetta Avenue.

The fun will take place on Taylor Avenue & Poinsetta Avenue.

I do need to add one more  video link here.  Andy Irons, one year has passed.  I could quote some of what they say, but just check it out here.

Later,

oldwaverider



Music by the Fyoogs http://thefyoogs.com

(That’s the kind of music that should be in a surf video, as opposed to rap 😉

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Image 1 of 5, MIke on a shoulder high right at 4rth street, Tropical Storm Maria, Thursday September 15, 2011, taken by yours truly :)

Image 1 of 5, MIke on a shoulder high right at 4rth street, Tropical Storm Maria, Thursday September 15, 2011, taken by yours truly 🙂

Okay, you know my obsession with huge wave video…This was the contest that Kelly Slater won (as I mentioned in a post a week ago), where Kelly skipped the J-Bay ASP event to catch the Epic 30 foot plus Fiji surf back in July at Cloudbreak, which gave him the warmup that he wanted or needed to explode at Teahupoo Billabong Pro.  Some of the waves in this video have 20 foot plus overhead barrels, and some brutal looking wipeouts. Okay, my digression is over, back to Maria photos and incoming surf…

Image 2 of 5, MIke on a shoulder high right at 4rth street, Tropical Storm Maria, Thursday September 15, 2011

Image 2 of 5, MIke on a shoulder high right at 4rth street, Tropical Storm Maria, Thursday September 15, 2011

We have our incoming windswell Nor’easter rolling in, it just hit at 11 AM,  4.5 ft at 9 seconds at the 120 buoy and the 20 mile is showing 3.5 feet at 10 seconds, so we should be seeing some waist high choppy waves at the Cape and some chest high chop down South.  It appears that this wind swell is gonna hang for the next 3 to 5 days, around the same size, and with onshore winds.  At least we’ll have something rideable, though I’m just gonna let my wounds heal from the last two hurricanes/tropicals 🙂

Image 3 of 5, Tropical Storm Maria, Thursday September 15, 2011

Image 3 of 5, Tropical Storm Maria, Thursday September 15, 2011

Image 4 of 5, Tropical Storm Maria, Thursday September 15, 2011

Image 4 of 5, Tropical Storm Maria, Thursday September 15, 2011

Image 5 of 5, Tropical Storm Maria, Thursday September 15, 2011

Image 5 of 5, Tropical Storm Maria, Thursday September 15, 2011

Image 1 of 3, Mike on a shoulder high left, Thursday September 15th, 2011, Tropical Storm Maria, photo by Art

Image 1 of 3, Mike on a shoulder high left, Thursday September 15th, 2011, Tropical Storm Maria, photo by Art

Image 2 of 3, Mike on a shoulder high left, Thursday September 15th, 2011, Tropical Storm Maria, photo by Art

Image 2 of 3, Mike on a shoulder high left, Thursday September 15th, 2011, Tropical Storm Maria, photo by Art

Image 3 of 3, Mike on a shoulder high left, Thursday September 15th, 2011, Tropical Storm Maria, photo by Art

Image 3 of 3, Mike on a shoulder high left, Thursday September 15th, 2011, Tropical Storm Maria, photo by Art

The photos are from Slater Lane/4rth street North on Thursday (9/15/2011) taken by myself of my old surf buddy from Lakeland Mike.  The first set is a sequence of 5 shots of a nice shoulder high right.  The next is a shoulder high left of 3 shots.  Really fun, epic day!

I’ll be posting more photos from the Cape and the neighborhood, and some more photos from Katia down at O’ Club, in the next week.

Later,

oldwaverider


Quick Update at 8:45 PM Thursday nightMost will assume that I am on, or was on some form of a hallucinagenic, and I’m okay with that 🙂 , however, I just got to watch 45 minutes of surf shortly before dark,  and I saw one individual catch 4 rides, the 1st witch was 6 solid feet over his head, when he made his bottom turn, and he still had 2 or 3 further to the bottom, not of the typical slopey Florida wave.  The 2nd epic wave out of his 4 that we watched, which was also glassy, was he dropped in, on the same but maybe an inch taller wave 😉 and after a rentry, slipped right into a barrel, standup, but only have of the wave covered him to the waist, but he did disappear, pulled out, and preceded to get 3 or 4 rentry that required at least 30 yards coverage for each top to bottom, it was like in slow motion.  We estimated that it was about 200 yards, (2 football fields, based on the fact that it was around 10 seconds ride, but also, since it was about 400 yards out paddle to get out, and he made it most of the way in except for the inside section…which by the way, his wave kept on going when he kicked out. It was really breathtaking for Florida ( I could care less how corney it sounds, but I love guessing numbers, stats, financial data and trends, finding changes in treands, plus distance when I run 3 to 4 times a week, so am I anal , you make the call, and this site to see was awesome , especially for Northern Brevard County.  The original post from today continues below starting with the Teahupoo video which is breathtaking again…a little poetic sounding, but my bad 😉  Last comment, I believe my numbers for 6:30 – 7 AM session made in this afternoons post earlier today at 1  PM, is still accurate, so take it or leave it 🙂

Friday morning surf report in a minute…I had to drop this video of Teahupoo  (cho-pooh), from The Billabong Pro in Tahiti.  It is absolutely incredible taken from a helicopter.

Friday morning, On the high side, with the models for Satellite Beach at daybreak,  10.5 feet at 13 seconds, in Satellite Beach we could see 15 foot plus faces.  The winds are still looking 25 to 30 mph NW until noon and then WNW.  There will be gusts over 35 mph, but that’s still less than TD Hanna in “09”.  But by then the size has dropped 4 feet in face size.

Friday morning, Our models show 6 feet at 15 seconds climbing to 8 feet at 11 seconds at 9 AM At the Cape and Cocoa Beach,  the Cape should see 10 to 12 foot faces with a rogue set every now and then, glassy, lots of spray with 25 to 30 mph NW winds, and gusts a little higher.  The lefts should be incredible. High tide is 5:45, which is the best condition we could ask for, high going low.  The size will probably kick up from daybreak to 9 AM a couple feet, and then start dropping fast by noon,  but not to fast 🙂  By noon, we’ll probably have 8 to 10 foot faces and then lose a foot every couple hours.

The rain should be pretty significant in the morning so be ready for that, and also, for you old guy surfers, 2 guys, both 49 years old, very competent surfers drowned in the surf during Hurricane Florence in Sept of 2006.  In fact the waves that day were 6 to 10 foot overhead, and this barrell taken shows that at Satellite Beach were this photo, this one taken just before one of the guys Rob drowned.  He was a 15 or 16 year old surfers father.

Watch the  Sea Lice stings “sea lice” which are actually the larvae of Thimble jellyfish.  And also watch the big big Moon Jellyfish.  I walked the beach at 8 this morning, and I saw one that was about a foot in diameter.  I believe they are “Moon Jellyfish”  They are clear, round, and inch or more thick, with 4 purple membranes if you will in the center.  I will try to update later today with a photo of these large Moon Jellyfish.

South of Minuteman, with those winds, should produce slight offshore to sideshore winds.

North of Minuteman, we take a size hit but have the glass.

Saturday, shoulder to head high , 20 mph west winds and epic, anywhere.

Sunday, probably some leftovers but who cares 🙂


Okay, now we’re caught up on the Billabong XXL Big Wave videos.

Check out the new entrant.  The boys from Ireland have a lot to show for the emerging monsters.  Between some of the breaks around LaHinch Beach around the NNW point of Ireland, they have had some mega 40 to 50 foot face waves in the last 12 to 18 months of La Nina surf season.

Also, check out Shipstern Bluff.   I have asked myself, why do those guys surf there, since the moment they hit that part of the wave were it seems like a big chasm or black hole in the ocean floor appears, and thus they have the most incredible wipeouts cause they’re not expecting a sudden free fall at the peak of the barrel of the wave.

Then it dawned on me;  that’s why they like it,  it’s like having a cinderblock laying at the bottom of a skatepark bowl, forcing them to “think on their feet” if you will.   So watch the different way these crazies choose to respond to the “black hole” part of the wave at Shipstern Bluff, Tasmania.

Also, “Cloudbreak” in Fiji, is a new entrant.  Another 40 foot face entry, and especially the paddle in wipeout in what looks like a 40 foot plus face.   I bet that one wins the wipeout of the year award.  Anyone that has the balls to keep on paddling for that one, then goes one step crazy further by grabbing the rail of the board in order to make the straight/angled drop,  they have my vote for the best and most ballzy calculated attempt and then wipeout !

Last,  Chile had a massive year, that 45 – 50 foot face in their freezing cold water gains the same respect as freezing Mavericks,  Prowlers and Oregon’s last 50 – 60 foot wave video shown on Seaweed not long ago.

Enjoy, and I hope ya don’t mind me posting these things.   I love watching huge waves.

Now that the rumor is out that Kelly Slater may start participating in some of this kind of surfing, I’m even more fired up.   Anyone that can terrorize the competition in the ASP regular surf tour, and then turn around the next week and paddle into a 30 – 40 foot face at the “Eddie”, is certainly one ballsy individual.

oldwaverider