Full size images below if you want to click on them and see full screen.
This was Saturday morning May 14, 2011 in South Cocoa Beach.
Chad with his son Chase, Sunny, Jim and Dave the Ripper caught a great surf sesh from a 3 or 4 day swell, nice and glassy, yeah there were closeouts, but definitely some great waves in the waist to stomach high range, with maybe some bigger sets.
Chase, (Chad’s son) came along to put on a show (see photos below 🙂 along with the surf sesh. Even if the waves were flat, it wouldn’t have been boring.
Also, the incoming wind swell for Memorial Day Weekend looks like it’s kicking in a tad more size and power. And it may even rollover till Thursday now, and………bring in some waves Sunday morning instead of waitin till the afternoon.
By Sunday afternoon, we should see some waist high waves at the Cape here, yeah 10 to 20 mph onshores, but like I said yesterday, we aren’t supposed to have waves by now, so get excited. Monday ought to have some fun chop, with a drop in the swell
by late afternoon/evening.
Then Tuesday, the size may kick in to maybe some chest high waves at the Cape with bigger sets down south, though the period (power) of the swell drops off until Wednesday some time where the size drops but the power kicks in a little
more. Again, I don’t see an offshore winds window yet, but if we do, we’ll pass it on.
Jellyfish are strung out all along the water, and even up into what appears to be dry sand for the first 5 feet or so. Out in the water, YouTube had videos showing Cannonball Jellyfish (never heard of them but glad to catch the name).
The type at the end of Johnson Avenue in Cape Canaveral and I know up to Lori Wilson Park are a purple looking jellyfish, 1 to 2 1/2 inches in diameter, with purple tentacles, 8 of them according to Wiki, but it was hard to see all of them.
One of our local surfers got nailed at the end of our street. And I know of someone else that got it in back of one of the resorts south of Lori Wilson Park in Cocoa Beach.
Keep your Vinegar or Ammonia bottle sprayer handy in the car. Sudsey Ammonia with half water added did the trick for me once, but the resorts keep Vinegar in a bottle to spray you which works well also.
16streets.com had a pretty good write up on the situation with the Jellyfish and what type they are.
Saturday morning waves at Hightowers at daybreak, stomach to chest high and glassy with insane lefts and really fun rights. High tide was damping a lot of spots, I even saw 3 cars leave 2nd light while I was at the light. Hangers was too high tide, but Hightowers was rockin.
Now, for an old friend from high school filmed by another old friend Gary Powell (he’s not old, just a friend from way back 😉 …
Check out the video here…
Tony McMahon, a friend from way back (high school ouch!), playing lead guitar for Sky Dogs The Project Movie. Tony in the black shirt with the trippin red trim shirt.
He ripped “Free Bird” better than Lynrd back then in high school. Ain’t no one that would argue that!
This is a concert on May 15th, 2011 in Gainesville, FL, they’re playing classic Southern Rock, especially Allman Brothers.
It was great this morning ! The Cape was totally blocked out by this part of the swell.In Satellite it was shoulder high on the drop w chest high shoulders and glassy until around 7:30 Am! Then it dropped off to waist high for an hour and then kicked back up to waist to chest. Still glassy when I left about 8:30 Am.
The next punch of the swell will kick in some throughout the day today (Friday) , in fact it just hit 6 feet at the 120 buoy at 9 Am this morning at 11 seconds which travels about 18 to 19 mph which would take 7 hours approx. to actually hit the beach. Last night at 9 Pm it was 4 feet at 10 seconds. So by 4:00 Pm today, the new surge will hit. The final punch of the swell coming in will be between 10 Pm and 1 Am tonight. It should hit between 7 and 8 feet at the 120 buoy.
I believe in Satellite Beach it will have some 1 foot overhead drops at least with shoulder high maybe head high shoulders down the line. The winds will be SW around 8 mph and by 11 or so turn WSW on into the afternoon. The period will have it’s main punch from dinnertime tonight throughout Saturday morning. It will have way more punch than it did this morning.
Sunday, it should be waist high plus down there, strong strong offshore winds, and then dropping throughout the day Sunday.
The moving swell chart pics here (frozen at 7 Am for this morning and the 2nd one frozen at 1 Am tonight), show how the swell will still be coming in until around 1 or 2 Am.
I believe the size will be as I said, the winds will be blowing offshore at 8 to 10 mph for 4 or 5 hours but I don’t think it will drop the size any yet since the swell period is still coming in.
It’s going to be building too, all day Friday and even throughout Friday night until just before daybreak Saturday. But that’s not why I’m saying it’s powerful.
The period of the swell is pushing between 11 and 14 seconds between the beach and the 120. Then you might say, oh crap, an 11 or 12 second period swell for us is all closeouts. Well you’d be wrong! Just kidding with the intensity. But you would be wrong 🙂 The quality of the low pressure system is what makes or breaks the swell, and it does help if you surf one of our reef breaks that can hold it better when it gets hollow.
This swell has a fairly uniform set of period bands in it. Not anything as good as the Nov. 14th, 2010 swell (see the 2 links below) with perfect waves, but……….when I looked at the rock breaks in Satellite Beach today, even with the onshore winds in the 10 to 15 mph range, there was some sweet shoulders holding up, so imagine a South wind break with a quality swell. After looking at the Satellite Rock break, then I looked at 2nd light and O’club, and then a block south of 16th street, and the beach breaks were not holding up well, were at least a foot or two smaller.
Alright, I’m long-winded 😉 Friday morning rock breaks south of 2nd light should be solid head high waves, with 5 to 7 mph South winds, but I believe we could see a little SSW or with a gift from above possibly SW until 8 Am or so. These waves have lots of power, and are very hollow.
Saturday morning, I see the swell being a foot bigger at the daybreak, very possibly a foot overhead on the huge sets, with SW winds at daybreak, hollow, plenty of makeable waves and some sweet barrells. If you have a camera, bring it. The drift will probably be gone by Saturday too. The tides are perfect. Friday high tide is around 4:15 Am, and as you know high going low is best for us. So get out by 6:30 or 7 at the latest Friday to catch the slight offshore wind window.
Saturday, High is at 5:20 so anytime after 7:30 should rock! Unless the storm suddenly moves, Saturday should be epic. For 3 or 4 days straight, the models have been showing SW winds for Saturday, so I would bet $ 20 that it will be SW till at least 10, and probably pushing till past 12. Strange thing is, I don’t think it will hit 8 feet at the 120 buoy, I believe more like 7 feet Friday night, and yet we could have 7 foot face waves Saturday morning before the swell starts dropping a little in the afternoon Saturday.
Take a look at the swell period chart (the first image) for 7 Am Friday morning, and notice the fairly uniform period bands, instead of little dots of color all over the place, it is one solid blue with the mega period coming in late Friday nite for Saturday morning. The next pic is Saturday morning which is getting to 75 % of perfect storm. (Nov. 14th was thee perfect storm) The last picture was from today with plenty of power but the wrong winds, and the swell was still coming in even though the period was high.
Today, it was thigh high at the end of Johnson with onshore winds but some fun drops, some shoulders and a little power. I saw Scooter get an awesome and long left, and his wife got are really long, to the beach right.
Saturday morning is almost a perfect storm but not quite. Not like Nov. 14th, 2010. Go back and take a look at the pictures from Satellite Beach on that day, and look at the swell period chart I placed there I think the day before. It was a bigger swell, but they are similar in their perfection.
Okay, have a great Friday sesh, and have really mega-sesh on Saturday, God willing he keeps the conditions on target.
Thursday morning still looks to be coming in strong enough to give us some chest high sets down south in Satellite and maybe south Cocoa Beach. Winds still look like 5 – 10 mph NW winds until 9ish or 10ish then NNW to N.
Mid tide is 5:30 Am so it’ll be close to low tide when paddling out.
Friday Am still looks like SSE winds maybe South. Thursday night we’ll let ya know if we still have direct West winds, or if they’re changing to SSW for Saturday.
Swell hit the 120 around 6 Am looks like. Thursday Am daybreak should have NW winds at around 7 to 10 mph. (they start from S at midnight around swing around to NW by daybreak). Waves should be chest high down south.
Friday looks like a slight chance of offshores, but right now SSE at daybreak. With bigger size in waves.
Saturday looks like the epic day with full on size, probably head high down south and offshore winds.
Sunday, size drops but still may be waist high waves and offshores.
Tonight I’ll try to hammer out more wind directions for Friday and Thursday Am.
The time table moved up, and it looks like Thursday may be light offshore in the 5 to 8 range out of the west mostly for a few hours in the morning. Right now, I’ll go with 30 % accurate on those winds (for this Monday night) and Tuesday night, when I’ll be closer to okay let’s say 90 % call for Thursday Am wind accuracy 😉 Swell power should be strong enough to be chest high plus down south, waist at the Cape. Later in the day the size ought to kick up a little.
Friday, it gets a little bigger but with onshore winds all day. The swell actually kicks in a second punch and starts pulling in some more size.
Saturday, could easily be head high on the larger sets, with SW winds in the 8 to 12 mph range. It could be totally epic. Pick your favorite break.
Keep in mind that this swell comes from a sharp NE angle, so the further south you go, it ought to be bigger, cleaner and pitching nicer 🙂
My apologies, I’ve been away from this puppy, but….my excuse is, no real swells until this Thursday. I heard today (5/8) had some waist high waves, glassy and lots of fun. I can only track the solid ground swells when I see them. If you watch the Video, be sure to click the 4 arrows just right of the HD to see full screen mode !
Ross at cflsurf.com does a great job for the daily reports and swell tracking, and I just get fanatical when there is a full blown swell (non-wind swell) headed our way, then I’ll do the updates as that approaches. That’s the best I can do for now.
Okay, we have a nice ground swell NE’r coming in that may give us 3 to 6 days of waves. As it stands, the swell starts to roll in some on Wednesday afternoon, with peak swell size Thursday night before dark. It should have some head high waves down southwith onshore winds in the 10 to 15 mph east range Thursday.
Friday morning, looks like we could have offshore winds (as the swell approaches this could move up or slow down) and chest to shoulder high down south, with a drop in size here at the Cape. Saturday, also looks to waist to chest high, offshore winds, and maybe some leftovers on Sunday. Wednesday afternoon, I’ll have a pretty clear picture of what the winds should be Friday morning, so we’ll give ya updates throughout the week 🙂
The video above just came out 2 days ago, and yeah, my fanatical obsession for Big Wave pictures and videos is always looking for the next swell to show. This one is the 2011 Billabong XXL Big Wave Awards, and youza, Shane Dorian set a new record for the largest wave ever paddled into. Shawn Dollar had the biggest last year at Mavericks for an estimated 55 foot face. Well, they didn’t say how big the face was for Shane Dorian this year at Jaw’s, but it’s somewhere over 55 foot face anyhow. He also got the best Monster Tube Ride award also on the same wave. Awesome waves. Danillo got the Best Ride of the Year with the most insane board flipping drop ever. Enjoy the video.
And don’t forget Sion Milosky died this year and his wife and children were there to take the award at the Billabong XXL Award night. We also lost Andy Irons as you all know. The Big Waves Award is a great night and great video to remember these awesome surfers and the many big waves they have surfed and the friendships they made during those epic days we all remember.
My friend from Lakeland High School John Staeger died from hitting a reef with his head while surfing Hawaii back in 1980, so we’ve all known someone that doesn’t get to paddle out again.
Thanks for your patience, since its been 9 days since I dropped an entry here. I’ll try not to wait so long 🙂