Well, for 4 or 5 days now, this massive swell has been charting a 10 foot plus swell size. This is the biggest swell I have seen or tracked since I moved here in 2004.
It is also the most perfect swell, as far as the largest body of water that the swell expands over, and how perfect the swell period animated map lays out. Perfect even bands of green, yellow, etc.
Sunday morning looks like the day, that is the day for the most size and chance of clean form.
Sunday looks to have at least 6 feet over head, my guess is we will see a lot of 6 foot overhead waves with some much bigger occasional sets. The pier should just squeak by with the swell getting in full size. I say that because this is a ENE or maybe NE swell, and the pier is just at the edge of not getting blocked out for the size that Satellite beach and the Bahamas will be getting. I bet the Bahamas will see 20 foot faces. They are the only land until you get to Cape Hatteras, that has deep water close to shore, so Indicas can hold 20 foot there, plus being a point break is nice.
Saturday afternoon, the swell peaks in size, but the winds will still be strong, maybe out of the North saturday, but the perfection of the size and period of the swell is Sunday morning at daybreak.
I believe Sunday morning, that a chance of NNW winds is very likely, in the 5 to 10 mph range, with 6 foot overhead coming in to the pier. With bigger sets occasionally. And if not NNW, it should still be out of the North at less than 10 mph, but say a prayer and then see what happens.
I’m gonna stick my neck out here, even though this swell has a higher period than normal, meaning higher than 10 usually means lots of close-outs, but because of the perfection of how this swell is shaped, and the angle of the swell, we could have some decent form to it. It does help to have rocks or a jetty to hold the form a little, but we may be in for a nice surprise!
We will be crowded down (or up North here), because of the wind direction.
Make sure and have an extra leash in the car.
Wish I could be out there. I’m still licking my wounds 🙂
Hopefully I’ll be able to get some pictures by confiscating a camera along the way.
oldwaverider
Johnson Avenue Surfers 