The 120 buoy has had some 6 foot readings in the 11 second period range as of 5:00 PM today and around 8 PM, with some 9 second readings mixed in. So this is part two of the swell we have had,along with a new swell rolling in.
It should be offshore , turning NW in the 4-8 mph range Sunday morning. High tide around 4:08 am, so by 7:30 it should start having some juice to it, provided no morning sickness is upon us. I think it will be waist to rib high and fairly glassy down south. The size up North should be more like the waist high range.
A few photos below of Hurricane Ida and Oldwaverider, shot by my buddy Mike Melito, the big day, but in my old age, some days, I don’t want to battle the 8-12 foot face days paddle out, and in this case, I headed back North to Canaveral, skipping my favorite Satellite Beach Breaks. So i went soft a few days, 🙂
ART HANSEN (OLDWAVERIDER) – PHOTO GALLERY, Hurricane Sandy overhead photos
Being in the right place at the right time, and a prayer. This photo sequence was one of the small to medium size sets from Epic Sunday at Hightowers, with face heights jumping up to 14 every so often. My friends Mike and Cathy, were talking to a woman taking pictures of the perfect swell, and she asked the woman if she would take some shots of me if I paddled out for a few minutes. So we were defintely in the right place at the right time.
I wasn’t going to paddle out, because I am old :), but a young friend (Seth) I met in the water there a couple months ago in a rib high day, said he would paddle out if I did, so with some perspiration and Old age prayer, I decide to go for it, just to get one wave, and try and avoid the clean up sets (14 to 15 foot faces) on the paddle out, that came thru every 15 or 20 minutes.
I got very lucky with my timing, made it out in 7 minutes with my hair dry, paddled for 2 or 3 waves, but to far out, so I came in a bit, and found one that looked like it was lining up, and then just started the crazy laugh 🙂 It was about a 10 or 11 foot face, I took off more parallel, cause straight bottom turns were almost a guaranteed pounding. I tried to get ahead of the lip, and eventually, just carved up thet wall to get a boost of speed , shot out in front after it broke, and belly boarded in, and back up to the boardwalk in 22 minutes. What a fun Ride, thank God for delivering perfect Hurricanes 🙂
Surf for Tuesday,there should be a little left, waist to chest high from the Cape and going South to Satellite Beach. Winds should be West in the 15 to 20 mph range, thanks to this wonderful cold front.