Knee to thigh high at the Cape , Waist to Rib high in Satellite Beach. Winds are still showing offshore, around 5 mph SW for CCB at daybreak. They do turn onshore by noon + or -, and low tide is around 7:10 AM. Also, this swell will be gone by afternoon, so hit it at dawn patrol or early anyhow.
Nothing else in view down the pipe, so get Wednesday (TODAY!) while it’s biggest, we did get blocked out here at the Cape by the angle of the swell , but it still looks like it should roll in some more for us by tonight. Why? Because it is still showing 6 feet at 11 seconds at the 120 buoy as of 1:30 PM, , which means big waves (okay, fairly big for us ) !
What’s down the Pipe on our local incoming Surf?…………….In a sec :), a great Big Wave Video of 6 time Billabong XXL Award winner Shane Dorian.
In 2010, Shane took a severe wipeout at Mavericks, and returns to the place of destruction again, Mavericks. He is 40 years old and doing Big Waves strong as you’ll see in some probably 40 foot face waves. Hope you Enjoy!
Incoming Surf; Tuesday, high winds starts bringing a ENE swell, that should turn into a ground swell by Wednesday morning, and on Thursdaymost likely giving us the glassy Waist high surf at the Cape with some decent power, and rib to Chest high sets in Satellite Beach. This is a 1 1/2 day swell, but it should be big Wednesdaychest to overhead, going from the Cape to Satellite. The winds will be onshore Wednesday, but it looks like they start to lay down to 10 mph onshore Wednesday afternoon. We won’t have accurate winds until Monday and Tuesday for Wed and Thurs surf.
Thursday is looking to be the classic day, so Tuesday and Wednesday we’ll update, to see if it holds true to the models.
And……..get excited, it’s a ENE swell without the cold air! Water temps around 76 ° , I went out the other day, around 10 AM, and there was absolutely know reason for a wetsuit no matter how long ya stayed out.
It is not a clip that shows the long magical rides and drops at Mavericks. It translates the feel of a huge wave wipeout, and what it’s like to come close to drowning after a 2 wave hold down, etc, spoken from the best Big Wave Surfers on the Planet (minus a few like Laird Hamilton).
I’ve had my near drownings in 3 places I can remember, and it was only 6 foot or so overhead waves; Ponce Inlet in the 80’s (getting sucked into the bolders by the most powerful rip I ever felt), Acapulco in the 80’s (getting sucked out to sea in a part of Mexico that I had never surfed before, about an hour or so from Mexico Pipelind/Escondido) and Wrightsville Beach, NC in the 90’s (also surfing alone and getting a hold down and then sucked out to sea from a fast building swell 😉 . So thus I share the extreme of Mavericks near drownings with big wave surf and for the two very special Big Wave Surfers, one Sion Milosky whom we lost a little over a year ago, who left a beautiful wife and daughter behind in Hawaii. The other was Mark Foo, in the early 90’s, also from Hawaii.
Surf Satruday; I give it 70 percent “gut” chance that we will have knee to thigh high semi-glassy surf at the Cape, and thigh to rib high surf in Satellite Beach and glassy, with 8 to 12 mph SSW winds that will probably end before noon.
There were some chest high waves today and very fun for a longboard at Hightowers.
The waves today were solid waist to a few chest high sets, almost glassy, but mushy, longboard only. Really fun, long clean glassy rides, totally carvable, though it was 6 mph SSE winds. The 3 short boarders out, got maybe 50 to 100 foot rides with a lot of pumping required. Here is a couple of shots from today at Hightowers. For short boards it was waist high for where they could catch them, and maybe a drop and one cut. Longboard waves had a few chest high sets, and some fairly long rides. But , when I got out of the water, there were only 3 short boarders out 😉
There were some chest high waves today and very fun for a longboard at Hightowers.
Beyond that, nothing to mention, except the 1 or 2 day possible big ground swell in the middle of next week.
Incoming wind swell Wednesday morning, with size peaking by dark. The full force of the swell should peak Wednesday night to Thursday mid-morning.
Friday the swell starts fading in size, but it should remain with us thru Saturday night, maybe some leftovers Sunday.
What to expect in surf size at the beach; Wednesdayat the Cape, by afternoon, since this is a direct east windswell, maybe chest high with some plus sets, with 12-15 mph ESE winds at daybreak increasing to 20 mph thru the day. Expect overhead surf in Satellite Beach. It is not a real strong swell, not a ground swell, but the fetch is fairly wide so it should have some form to it and some power.
Thursday, about the same as Wednesday afternoon, chest high at the Cape and overhead down South. Winds may drop to 15 mph by Thursday afternoon.
Friday, the size drops, a foot, the wind drops probably to under 15.
Saturday could have some slight offshores, we’ll just have to see by Friday morning to get a better call.
We’ll be dropping some more pics from that great day here at Johnson Avenue.
How the Waves were Tuesday n Wednesday…………plus our Continued swell report below;
SCROLL BELOW THE SLIDESHOW IF YOU WANT TO SEE THE FULL SIZE IMAGES, CLICK ONCE TO OPEN, AND IF YOUR MOUSE SHOWS A + (plus symbol), click again, I have them at 1800 pixels wide (20 inch wide photos on a PC), since they are zoomed out to much.
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Dr. John, taking advantage of a nice line, and no intruders 🙂 on a classic Johnson Avenue day. Image 1 of 6 in sequence.
Tuesday, I did a late 3:30 PM session in Satellite Beach, and even with 12 to maybe 15 mph onshore winds, there were some very fun lines/peaks coming in. The waves were 3 to 4 foot backs, so an occasional head high face did roll thru. It was past mid-tide high going low, and only 3 of us out, sunny and a great session.
Pulling it around for that nice trim down the face, Image 2 of 6 sequence. Photos by Oldwaverider
Today, had some nice waist high plus lines at the pier, but I only enjoyed it thru the cams 😉
Thursday we still have some punch left with our 9 to 10 second period 4.5 foot swell all of the day.
Image 3 of 6, Dr. John. Johnson Ave on March 10 2012
We should have more waist high to rib waves at the Cape or the Pier, and a little bigger South.Winds, back down even more, to the 6 to 8 mph range, East, and start climbing up toward 9 to 12 mph, after 9 or 10 AM. (can we try to put a few more numbers into one paragraph? 😉
Image 4 of 6 sequence. I took the photos from around 8:30 until 10 or so.
Friday, (or actually late Thursday night, the swell we have starts pulling away slowly), and Friday thru Sunday, a very mild Easterly swell will push toward us, to keep us with something rideable for the next 4 or 5
Image 5 of 6.
days, but do to the weaker swell, the right time of tides will be a lot more important than the strong swell we have thru Thursday (tommorrow). It still should be thigh high here at the Cape and waist high down South in Satellite Beach.Winds Friday, 6 to 8 mph ENE climbing toward 10 to 12 mph East by late afternoon.
I still don’t see any offshore days in the picture, so just like this week, I didn’t jump on the Surf Report binge too hard knowing that everyone new we’d have waves, but no “epic” day in sight if you will.
The were definitely some 60 to an occassional 100 yard rides available. Image 6 of 6, Dr. John enjoying a great session.
The photos here are on a nice wave and ride of Dr. John, from our awesome chest high day Saturday, March 10th, when the whole neighborhood was out surfing, at some time or another.
SCROLL BELOW THE SLIDESHOW IF YOU WANT TO SEE THE FULL SIZE IMAGES, CLICK ONCE TO OPEN, AND IF YOUR MOUSE SHOWS A + (plus symbol), click again, I have them at 1800 pixels wide, since they are zoomed out to much.
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An early drop-in by Lacey on one of the waves of the day 🙂 Image 1 of 10 shot sequence.
Lacey Gallery 1st ten photos. Today was a beautiful day at J-Ave! The waves were Chest high, some smaller, some bigger, with unexpected offshore winds past 8 AM, and unexpected sunshine. The next swell moving in was supposed to throw 20 mph NE winds by 8 or 9 AM, but our Awesome Creator (God 🙂 gave us an extended window of the whole neighborhood out in the water at some time or another. And our typical Boardwalk Commentators put in a little overtime, just to make sure everything went well, and so that all of those participants that shredded at least one wave, were commended at least once 🙂
Image 2 of 10 sequence. Lacey, dropping in to a nice big right, Sun was bright!
The first sequence is of Lacey (if misspelled i change it in the title later:) ), which which was done in 2 part, because as she dropped into one of the waves of the day, I was shooting right into the Sun, the camera had to time-out for 2 seconds after 6 shots, and then I
Beautiful bottom turn.........Image 3 of 10 shots. Johnson Ave., March 10 around 9:30 AM.
managed to pull 3 or 4 more shots on the same ride, but out of direct sun, and as she was getting closer to shore. It ended up being like 10 shots from the same wave, and if you look at the longboard on the sand, and how it re-positioned with the guy next to it, the span of her ride had to be close to 100 yards give or take. Just an awesome ride by Lacey, her style of takeoff, form and grace on that one!
Image 4 of 10 sequence. Possibly a hundred yard perfect wall. Photos by Oldwaverider
The next sequence is of Chad, on another of the bombs of the day, and trying to maintain a stance of modesty from his growing talent, he kept his re-entries in this chest to head high wave slightly conservative, so as not to frustrate others who are still learning to Surf 🙂
Lacey cruising along on one of those rare days of the year. The whole neighborhood was out. Image 5 of 10 sequence.
Sunday Surf; expect big overhead chop with 15 to 25 mph winds from the East. Probably head high plus at the Cape and 2 to 3 foot overhead down South in Satellite Beach.
I hope y’all enjoy the photos, and I apologize that I had to have the zoom out so much, but I literally could not see anything thru the viewfinder because the sun was so bright, so the best way to even get 4 or 5 pics in a sequence, is to have the zoom way out so you don’t have to move the camera too much.
Image 6 of 10 in sequence. The Sea Oats and the Sun competing for the Lens 🙂This is the same long ride by Lacey. Finally out of the direct sun, as she approaches shore. Image 7 of 10 in the ride.Bringing one of the "Waves of the Day" to a close, well almost to a close. Image 8 of 10 sequence.Image 9 of 10 on a perfect Johnson Avenue day, and ride by Lacey. Photos by OldwaveriderHer board hit a big shark.........just kidding. Image 10 of 10 sequence of LaceyChad catching a late drop in on one of the "Bombs" of the day. Image 1 of 7 sequence. Photo by OldwaveriderChad, Seeing that hollow section up ahead 🙂 Image 2 of 7 sequence. Johnson Avenue, March 10 2012K-ruisin, Image 3 of 7 sequence. Chad.Little head dip? Image 4 of 7 sequence. Johnson AvenueRail grabbin time to hold that steep high part of the wave. Image 5 of 7 sequence.and he keeps goin and goin 🙂 Image 6 of 7 shots. Photos by Oldwaveriderwhen you get a nice wave like that, who cares if it finally closes out.....Image 7 of 7
Don’t forget about Daylight Savings Time. (spring forward-fall back 😉
Saturday Morning Surf until 8 Am, maybe 9 AM, then it goes to pure onshore chop slop…………..Rib to chest high at the Cape. Semi-Glass with 8 to 12 mph North winds until 8 AM. Satellite Beach could have solid head high waves with a chance of one hour more of semi-glass waves until 9 AM, with 9 to 13 mph N and maybe NNW winds. But by 9 Am, everywhere it should start getting blown out big time with 15 to 20 mph NNE winds.
40% chance of showers and total cloudy, so get in the water by 6:30 if you want 1 and 1/2 hour of good surf.
Sunday surf; total blown out big chop, 20 mph onshore winds. Later in the week we’ll let ya know when the clean days are.
Either way, it’s kind of fun to think that this swell could wait another hour to hit us, but not likely 🙂
Today was awesome at Johnson Ave.Solid chest high , with very clean shoulders, and if you waited, there were many 80 to 100 yard rides for long boards anyhow.
Today was really really fun!…………………Friday, better, Saturday , maybe a touch of glass but only North and only at daybreak till 8 or 9 Am ? More in a sec………….
Dungeons - n - Sunset, South Africa, on a 15 foot swell (but a wave of the day here, maybe 18), March 1 2012. From Magicseaweed.com Jeremy Johnson and Matt Bromley on a bomb.
The obsession for big wave watching has me thanking Magicseaweed.com for the great slideshow from a solid 15 foot swell that hit Dungeons & Sunset Beach, South Africa on March 1st 2012. Yeah, we had 15 foot (faces of rogue sets 😦 let the skeptics who weren’t there for 4 hours argue that , <grin> ) with Hurricane or TS Hannah 3 years ago at the Pier and Satellite Beach. But as Rich (one of our consistent, haven’t seen in a while 50 year old surfers also called it ) would attest to that morning, the faces were 10 to 12 at Lincoln and Johnson and 15 foot faces on the “rogue” sets if you will at the pier. But , they probably had 25 to 30 foot faces in Dungeons for their 15 foot Hawaiian defined size waves 🙂
I thought this fact was amazing about swells; Apparently one percent of waves in a swell can be up to twice the average. On a big day these are the rouge sets which keep you on your toes. From the same big day at Dungeons, South Africa. This was a rogue wave. See the article link to Magicseaweed.com published March 8, 2012
Forgive me, but I had to snag these two pick from the article today at Magicseaweed.com of Jeremy Johnson and Matt Bromley on this 25 foot plus face bomb.
Our Surf; The surf today at Johnson, Chad and I did an hour, got real lucky on the paddle out, but we had some solid rib to chest high waves, and some head high face drops with a rogue set or two. For 15 mph onshore winds, you’d never expect it to have been that clean a form. We were out from like 12 to 1, so we were past mid tide of high going low. It was sucking out in some shallow water, so lots of wall to work, steep drops, really fun waves.
Friday, expect chest high plus surf for the Cape (plus bigger sets), and head high surf down south with some 2 to 3 foot overhead sets (on the dropin) for sure in Satellite Beach.Winds will be 7 to 10 mph SE until 10 or 11 Am I believe, so it should be really clean, the ground swell part rolls in before daybreak, 10 second period, so power, form, with my guess minimal closeouts will be the game for the day.
Saturday, we are getting burned, kinda.Unless you get out at daybreak and surf till 8 AM. We were going to have offshore winds from the Cape to Satellite until 9 or 10, but………….we have a new swell coming from NE (but the charts say East, which I don’t know why they say that cause it is coming from NE on every Atlantic East Coast storm graph I look at, but whatever 😉 ), so the new storm is pushing the offshores in to never never land, but!!!!!!!!!!!! We will have N winds at starting around 2 or 3 Am Friday night Saturday morning, until 7 or 8 AM tops! The wind will be 4 to 6 mph, so don’t party late Friday night and get it from the Cape to 4rth street North and you’ll have slight offshore winds. See my new best break for North winds chart here to see how offshore the winds are for North winds, depending on the break. Johnson Avenue is 14 degrees offshore approx. , Lori Wilson and 4rth street North about 4 degrees offshore. The Port is even more offshore. Satellite Beach shows actual NW to NNW at 8 mph until 8 or 9 AM because the swell will take 1 hour or so long to hit there, so if you want 2 to 3 foot overhead drops, and semi-glassy, then head South.But by 10 or noon, the winds go to 15 to 20 mph bringing in the new swell for a big choppy blown out Sunday thru a number of days.
That’s it. Once I see the calm , or light wind day for the new swell, we’ll pass it on.
Have a great, big swell Friday and Saturday morning.
Are their big choppy waves coming? Will there be waves for the next week?
Yep. Though I wouldn’t expect anything with good rideable lines to the Cape until Wednesday morning. Meaning lines with shoulders. The period is so small Tuesday until late in the day, and then Wednesday we should have some head high plus chop at the Cape, and overhead stuff down South.
Wednesday thru Friday the size should be pretty close to the same, however the strength/power of the waves increase quite a bit on late Thursday thru Saturday. Expect head high stuff at the Cape w bigger sets, and 2 to 3 feet overhead sets in Satellite Beach.Winds will be strong East thru Monday my guess at least, mostly in the 15 to 20 plus mph range..
The winds will give us some reprieve, at certain tides. We’ll just have to wait and see.
Last Wednesday (Feb. 22nd) , a week ago on that semi-glassy day we had at the Cape, Chad did his 2nd surf session for the day down at Hangers with myself. We had some awesome clean and glassy lines coming in, with an occasional overhead set coming thru. As I mentioned from that day, if you were patient, there were a number of 100 plus yard rides, mostly lefts, but Chad set the record for the day with a 150 plus yard ride. (it was a 150 yard paddle out, and he rode it to shore)
The photos or some of the photos I took that day after we got out of the water are on a Post I did here. But………
it is amazing, the difference, if I had thought to check my other favorite break, Hightowers/RC’s, then we would have seen these waves on this amazing video of the footage that day, along with some footage of the Inlet , but mostly Satellite Beach. Check it Out! from the folks at http://pureoceantv.com/
We do have a massive swell arriving probably Tuesday, so we’ll keep ya posted when that gets closer. We may have a little bump for Saturday coming in, but I’m not gonna hold my breath, just like the way today wasn’t very likely for a great swell.
Whatever, we’ve had 2 1/2 years of consistent , awesome waves for Florida.
Johnson Avenue Surfers 