A VIDEO IN MEMORY OF MARK FOO AND SION MILOSKY

I had to share this video in case y’all didn’t catch it on Magicseaweed.com or on Vimeo.

It is not a clip that shows the long magical rides and drops at Mavericks.  It translates the feel of a huge wave wipeout, and what it’s like to come close to drowning after a 2 wave hold down, etc, spoken from the best Big Wave Surfers on the Planet (minus a few like Laird Hamilton).

I’ve had my near drownings in 3 places I can remember, and it was only 6 foot or so overhead waves;  Ponce Inlet in the 80’s (getting sucked into the bolders by the most powerful rip I ever felt),  Acapulco in the 80’s  (getting sucked out to sea in a part of Mexico that I had never surfed before, about an hour or so from Mexico Pipelind/Escondido)  and Wrightsville Beach, NC in the 90’s (also surfing alone and getting a hold down and then sucked out to sea from a fast building swell 😉 .   So thus I share the extreme of Mavericks near drownings with big wave surf and for the two very special Big Wave Surfers, one Sion Milosky whom we lost a little over a year ago, who left a beautiful wife and daughter behind in Hawaii. The other was Mark Foo, in the early 90’s, also from Hawaii.

Surf Satruday;  I give it 70 percent “gut” chance that we will have knee to thigh high semi-glassy surf at the Cape, and thigh to rib high surf in Satellite Beach and glassy, with 8 to 12 mph SSW winds that will probably end before noon.

There were some chest high waves today and very fun for a longboard at Hightowers.

There were some chest high waves today and very fun for a longboard at Hightowers.

The waves today were solid waist to a few chest high sets, almost glassy, but mushy, longboard only.  Really fun, long clean glassy rides, totally carvable, though it was 6 mph SSE winds.  The 3 short boarders out, got maybe 50 to 100 foot rides with a lot of pumping required.  Here is a couple of shots from today at Hightowers.  For short boards it was waist high for where they could catch them, and maybe a drop and one cut.  Longboard waves had a few chest high sets,  and some fairly long rides. But , when I got out of the water, there were only 3 short boarders out 😉

There were some chest high waves today and very fun for a longboard at Hightowers.

There were some chest high waves today and very fun for a longboard at Hightowers.

Beyond that, nothing to mention, except the 1 or 2 day possible big ground swell in the middle of next week.

Hope ya enjoy the Video!

Have a great weekend,

Oldwaverider

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