Archive for the ‘South Africa’ Category


Today was really really fun!…………………Friday, better,  Saturday , maybe a touch of glass but only North and only at daybreak till 8 or 9 Am ?  More in a sec………….

Dungeons - n - Sunset, South Africa, on a 15 foot swell (but a wave of the day here, maybe 18), March 1 2012. From Magicseaweed.com  Jeremy Johnson and Matt Bromley on a bomb.

Dungeons - n - Sunset, South Africa, on a 15 foot swell (but a wave of the day here, maybe 18), March 1 2012. From Magicseaweed.com Jeremy Johnson and Matt Bromley on a bomb.

The obsession for big wave watching has me thanking Magicseaweed.com for the great slideshow from a solid 15 foot swell that hit Dungeons & Sunset Beach, South Africa on March 1st 2012.  Yeah, we had 15 foot (faces of rogue sets 😦 let the skeptics who weren’t there for 4 hours argue that , <grin> ) with Hurricane or TS Hannah 3 years ago at the Pier and Satellite Beach.  But as Rich (one of our consistent, haven’t seen in a while 50 year old  surfers also called it ) would attest to that morning, the faces were 10 to 12 at Lincoln and Johnson and 15 foot faces on the “rogue” sets if you will at the pier.  But ,  they probably had 25 to 30 foot faces in Dungeons for their 15 foot Hawaiian defined size waves 🙂

I thought this fact was amazing about swells; Apparently one percent of waves in a swell can be up to twice the average. On a big day these are the rouge sets which keep you on your toes.  From the same big day at Dungeons, South Africa.  This was a rogue wave. See the article link to Magicseaweed.com published March 8, 2012

I thought this fact was amazing about swells; Apparently one percent of waves in a swell can be up to twice the average. On a big day these are the rouge sets which keep you on your toes. From the same big day at Dungeons, South Africa. This was a rogue wave. See the article link to Magicseaweed.com published March 8, 2012

Forgive me, but I had to snag these two pick from the article today at Magicseaweed.com of Jeremy Johnson and Matt Bromley on this 25 foot plus face bomb.

Our Surf;   The surf today at Johnson, Chad and I did an hour, got real lucky on the paddle out, but we had some solid rib to chest high waves, and some head high face drops with a rogue set or two.  For 15 mph onshore winds, you’d never expect it to have been that clean a form.  We were out from like 12 to 1, so we were past mid tide of high going low.  It was sucking out in some shallow water, so lots of wall to work, steep drops, really fun waves.

Friday, expect chest high plus surf for the Cape (plus bigger sets),  and head high surf down south with some 2 to 3 foot overhead sets (on the dropin) for sure in Satellite Beach.  Winds will be 7 to 10 mph SE until 10 or 11 Am I believe,  so it should be really clean, the ground swell part rolls in before daybreak, 10 second period, so power, form, with my guess minimal closeouts will be the game for the day.

Saturday, we are getting burned, kinda.   Unless you get out at daybreak and surf till 8 AM.  We were going to have offshore winds from the Cape to Satellite until 9 or 10, but………….we have a new swell coming from NE (but the charts say East, which I don’t know why they say that cause it is coming from NE on every Atlantic East Coast storm graph I look at, but whatever 😉  ),  so the new storm is pushing the offshores in to never never land, but!!!!!!!!!!!!  We will have N winds at starting around 2 or 3 Am Friday night Saturday morning, until 7 or 8 AM tops!  The wind will be 4 to 6 mph,  so don’t party late Friday night and get it from the Cape to 4rth street North and you’ll have slight offshore winds.   See my new best break for North winds chart here to see how offshore the winds are for North winds, depending on the break.  Johnson Avenue is 14 degrees offshore approx.  ,  Lori Wilson and 4rth street North about 4 degrees offshore.  The Port is even more offshore.  Satellite Beach shows actual NW to NNW at 8 mph until 8 or 9 AM because the swell will take 1 hour or so long to hit there, so if you want 2 to 3 foot overhead drops, and semi-glassy,  then head South.  But by 10 or noon, the winds go to 15 to 20 mph bringing in the new swell for a big choppy blown out Sunday thru a number of days.

That’s it.  Once I see the calm , or light wind day for the new swell, we’ll pass it on.

Have a great, big swell Friday and Saturday morning.

Oldwaverider