JUNE 15 I WILL BE DONE REMODELING MY HOME.ย THEN I WILL GET BACK TO MY REAL JOB, JOHNSON AVENUE SURFERS!ย MY APOLOGIES, BUT I HAVE LIVED LIKE A SLOB FOR TOO LONG, AND THAT IS ALMOST OVER ๐
Sunday morning Surf……..
Sunny? February 22nd, 2012, 5 ft ENE swell at Johnson Avenue, photo by Oldwaverider
TS Beryl or whatever it is, is gonna throw us some waist high waves at the Cape and Chest high bigger sets in Satellite Beach. Winds should be in the 5 to 10 mph WSW range, and turning onshore sometime around Noon to 1 PM.ย Low tide is around 7:03 AM, so if you can get out at daybreak, that may be the best, else, whatever time you choose to wake ๐
The waves today at Satellite Beach was really fun thigh to rib high with some really workable walls.ย Not glassy, but not choppy either, slight onshore winds when I went out at 9 AM.
The photo I think is Sunny, in a nice head dip, almost barrel, if it’s not Sunny, then it sure looks like his styleย ๐
Perfect small glassy lines today at Johnson Avenue!
DON – PHOTO GALLERY
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A perfect knee to thigh high crusier, backside line, Don taking this one all the way in. Image 1 of 7 shot sequence. May 16, 2012 Johnson Ave. Photo by Oldwaverider
TO SEE THE FULL SIZE 17 INCH WIDE PHOTO, DON’T FORGET TO CLICK ON THE SMALL IMAGES, AND WHEN IT POPS OPEN, YOU MADE WANT TO CLICK IT AGAIN IF YOU SEE THE PLUS + SIGN WITH YOUR MOUSE FOR FULL SCREEN VERSION…
This 7 shot sequence of Don, was this morning around 11 AM today at dead low tide.ย Perfect glassy lines, almost looked like a ground swell, but it was a crazy 1.5 foot at 8 second swell, with offshore light winds until just before 12.
Don, perfect left. Image 2 of 7 in sequence, Wednesday morning. Photo by Oldwaverider
Update at 10:20 Pm Wednesday night,ย it just hit 4 feet at 12 seconds at the 120 buoy, so we may be in luck if it keeps pushing in.ย
Upcoming surf for Thursday morning,ย a new piggyback swell, seemed to be forming a ground swell, for like 1 foot at 12 seconds as the charts show.ย It hit 4 feet at 8 seconds at the 120, and was a 2.5 foot swell at 12 or 13 seconds at the 20 mile buoy, also at 8 PM.
Don, cruising backside forever on this perfect left line. Image 3 of 7.
I have seen a 1.5 foot swell at 11 seconds deliver chest high waves at Perkins this time of year.ย But…………..
I give a 60 % call for some knee to thigh high sets up North here, and waist high down South in Satellite Beach.ย The swell angle is 72ยฐ which isn’t to steep from the North and mostly East, so we could have some fun waves.
Don, just like the battery………………….Image 4 of 7, photos by Oldwaverider
Mid-tide of high going low is around 8:50 AM,ย and with west winds light, I don’t think it will blow it flat at all, as long as the swell does actually come all the way in ๐
Don, image 5 of 7, Johnson Avenue, a day that should have been no waves ๐Don, still showing off to the Lady in Black ๐ well, maybe he’s not, but I would have been ๐ Image 6 of 7.He closes the deal, and takes it in on the perfect left of the day; a fine day at Johnson Avenue. Image 7 of 7 shot sequence.Don, calling it a day. And a fun day it was. May 16 2012.
Hope ya enjoy the pics from today, and the waves on Thursday if they deliver!
I will be getting more consistent again on posts and photos.ย I confess that a few new and cool factors in my life have taken me away a bit, but we are slowly getting focus back ๐
Rib high rail grabber, fun left late drop. Friday April 20, 2012 glass was really fun. Photo by Mike Melito
SUNDAY NIGHT LAZY UPDATE FOR THIS POST . The peak of the swell was delayed for Tuesday, Meaning the Size of the Swell and the Swell Period don’t arrive until Tuesday.ย But we should still have rib to shoulder high waves from the Cape to Satellite Beach for Monday,ย but the form may still be a little weak, until the 7 second power of the swell hits.ย Then it may have a little more shoulder form to it.ย Below is Friday nights info that I posted.
Nice size SE windswell coming (as if no one knew). More on that in a sec…
Last Friday,ย we caught some really fun, waist to chest high waves at 4rth street North.ย Brother Chad, my buddy Mike from Lakeland, another buddy Ken and Myself.
Fun glassy left, Oldwaverider, April 20 2012. Photo by Mike Melito
Mike took these shots of me while he was nursing a shoulder injury.ย A couple of lefts, which most of the lefts for the day, were late drops due to the swell, so rail-grabbers were a requirement, if ya wanted to keep the ride.
Very very late left, but a hand on the rail, going backside, will make for a fun ride ๐
It should show something for us Sunday morning,ย the winds actually look light right now,ย less than 7 light onshore winds.ย But wind swells are a little harder , no way harder to predict.
When a leash wraps around your but on a big day. My buddy Mike took this shot last summer, from my leash wrapping around my but and leg. (no skin, this is just leg). I limped for a week.
Anyhow, it appears that we will have some rib to head high plus waves going from the Cape to Satellite Beach,ย Sunday afternoon thru Wednesday, maybe Thursday.
Tuesday Night Surf Update below following this awesome video, By the way, check out the Swell Period chart I added below for Friday morning at 6 AM. Very powerful, very uniform period, and you can see the fetch (width of distance wind travels over water to create swell) of the swell is as wide as the U.S. almost..……………….This is a video covering the two big massive Paddle In Sessions at JAWS/PEAHI, from January 4rth and then January 30th, 2012, Yes, this year.ย ย ย THIS VIDEO IS SO INSANE!ย GREAT DROPINS,ย WIPEOUTS THAT LOOK LIKE DEATH. You will be amazed at Jeff Rowley and his wipeouts, and perfect ride of the year.
Many of the big name Surfers are in this including a not so big name, Dave Wassell who may have the respect of the biggest wave paddled into EVER!.ย Possiblyย 60 foot face paddle in.ย Also Albee Layer, Shane Dorian,ย Greg Long and a host of others, including some names we may not be familiar with.ย Jeff Rowley paddled into a 50 to maybe 55 foot face and is nominated for The Ride of the Year nominee for the 2012 Billabong XXL Awards.
The moving Swell "Period" chart for Friday morning, 4-20-2012 at 6 AM. It appears to be an almost perfectly uniform shape. Very rarely seen like this. Closeouts may not be as bad as other long period swells. Complliments of Magicseaweed.com
Upcoming Surf!ย Thursday late afternoon or evening an Easterly swell rolls in,ย so in Satellite Beach some waist high waves may come in with South to SSW winds, maybe.ย The way the period is lined up,ย it may not be to bad on closeouts.
Friday morning awesome glass!,models have been indicating for a few days in a row of providing us a 3 foot at 11 or 12 second period ground swell.ย With offshore winds up until late morning.ย Easterly swell,ย so we could see some waist to rib high sets at the Cape or at least the Pier,ย and Chest high plus down South in Satellite Beach.
Saturday could have some knee to rib high leftovers going from the Cape to Satellite respectively.ย Winds maybe brisk South, maybe a tint of offshores, but hard to say right now.ย Late Saturday a South weak wind swell rolls in for a couple days, but don’t expect much form or anything but slop chop.
That’s if for now.ย Get excited about Friday folks.ย Sorry for the back log on updates.ย We have been blessed for having to burn the midnight oil to get jobs done.ย Such is life.ย Thursday night we’ll confirm the Friday wind situation.
Billabong XXL Big Wave Awards Nominees 2012 Video plus Lazy Update Wednesday afternoon at 3:30 PMย , Thursday may have some leftovers, but the offshore winds are blowing west out at the 120, so I wouldn’t count on much Thursday morning.ย It shows a 1.5 foot ground swell which I have seen a swell that size produce chest high at Perkins, but in this case, I go with knee to waist high, North going South.ย Saturdaysome time the big wind swell starts pushing in, bring big chop waves for the Easter Surf Fest, yeawwwwwwwwwwwww!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Sunday big overhead chop, Waves should be here thru Monday still overhead with reduced onshore winds for Monday, and maybe some Tuesday rib high glass.
Everything below is from Surf Report that I did on Tuesday April 3rd.
Upcoming Surf for maybe Wednesday waist high somewhere and overhead windswell for Sunday , Monday ………….in a moment ๐
BIG JAWS/PEAHI PADDLE IN SESSION VIDEO WITH JEFF ROWLEY
This is spectacular video footage of Jaws, from one of the two big paddle in sessions, this one on January 4, 2012, this year.ย Wave size was 45 to 60 foot faces, approx.ย The music, the insane rides and drops, totally awesome,ย especially from Jeff Rowley, the newcomer to Peahi, who is from Australia.ย Jeff is nominated for the Billabong XXL Ride of the Year award.
Surf Update;ย Tuesday night a maybe ground swell rolls in, and for Wednesday morning, possibly thigh to rib high waves and brisk offshore winds.ย
Thursday morning leftovers probably, and then flat till Sunday for the most part.
Sunday could be some overhead chop down south and maybe some chest high stuff at the Cape.ย The swell angle is NE,ย so we will get some blockage, how much, can’t say ๐ย We should have more big chop with winds backing off on Monday to under 15 mph possibly, but we’ll know more definite on Saturday night.
What’s down the Pipe on our local incoming Surf?…………….In a sec :),ย ย ย a great Big Wave Video of 6 time Billabong XXL Award winner Shane Dorian.
In 2010, Shane took a severe wipeout at Mavericks, and returns to the place of destruction again, Mavericks.ย He is 40 years old and doing Big Waves strong as you’ll see in some probably 40 foot face waves.ย Hope you Enjoy!
Incoming Surf;ย Tuesday, high winds starts bringing a ENE swell, that should turn into a ground swell by Wednesday morning, and on Thursdaymost likely giving us the glassy Waist high surf at the Cape with some decent power, and rib to Chest high sets in Satellite Beach.ย This is a 1 1/2 day swell, but it should be big Wednesdaychest to overhead, going from the Cape to Satellite.ย The winds will be onshore Wednesday, but it looks like they start to lay down to 10 mph onshore Wednesday afternoon.ย We won’t have accurate winds until Monday and Tuesday for Wed and Thurs surf.
Thursday is looking to be the classic day, so Tuesday and Wednesday we’ll update, to see if it holds true to the models.
And……..get excited, it’s a ENE swell without the cold air!ย Water temps around 76 ยฐ ,ย I went out the other day, around 10 AM, and there was absolutely know reason for a wetsuit no matter how long ya stayed out.
It is not a clip that shows the long magical rides and drops at Mavericks.ย It translates the feel of a huge wave wipeout, and what it’s like to come close to drowning after a 2 wave hold down, etc, spoken from the best Big Wave Surfers on the Planet (minus a few like Laird Hamilton).
I’ve had my near drownings in 3 places I can remember, and it was only 6 foot or so overhead waves;ย Ponce Inlet in the 80’s (getting sucked into the bolders by the most powerful rip I ever felt),ย Acapulco in the 80’sย (getting sucked out to sea in a part of Mexico that I had never surfed before, about an hour or so from Mexico Pipelind/Escondido)ย and Wrightsville Beach, NC in the 90’s (also surfing alone and getting a hold down and then sucked out to sea from a fast building swell ๐ .ย ย So thus I share the extreme of Mavericks near drownings with big wave surf and for the two very special Big Wave Surfers, one Sion Milosky whom we lost a little over a year ago, who left a beautiful wife and daughter behind in Hawaii. The other was Mark Foo, in the early 90’s, also from Hawaii.
Surf Satruday;ย I give it 70 percent “gut” chance that we will have knee to thigh high semi-glassy surf at the Cape, and thigh to rib high surf in Satellite Beach and glassy, with 8 to 12 mph SSW winds that will probably end before noon.
There were some chest high waves today and very fun for a longboard at Hightowers.
The waves today were solid waist to a few chest high sets, almost glassy, but mushy, longboard only.ย Really fun, long clean glassy rides, totally carvable, though it was 6 mph SSE winds.ย The 3 short boarders out, got maybe 50 to 100 foot rides with a lot of pumping required.ย Here is a couple of shots from today at Hightowers.ย For short boards it was waist high for where they could catch them, and maybe a drop and one cut.ย Longboard waves had a few chest high sets,ย and some fairly long rides. But , when I got out of the water, there were only 3 short boarders out ๐
There were some chest high waves today and very fun for a longboard at Hightowers.
Beyond that, nothing to mention, except the 1 or 2 day possible big ground swell in the middle of next week.
Incoming wind swell Wednesday morning, with size peaking by dark.ย The full force of the swell should peak Wednesday night to Thursday mid-morning.
Friday the swell starts fading in size, but it should remain with us thru Saturday night, maybe some leftovers Sunday.
What to expect in surf size at the beach;ย Wednesdayat the Cape, by afternoon, since this is a direct east windswell,ย maybe chest high with some plus sets, with 12-15 mph ESE winds at daybreak increasing to 20 mph thru the day.ย Expect overhead surf in Satellite Beach.ย It is not a real strong swell, not a ground swell, but the fetch is fairly wide so it should have some form to it and some power.
Thursday, about the same as Wednesday afternoon, chest high at the Cape and overhead down South.ย Winds may drop to 15 mph by Thursday afternoon.
Friday, the size drops, a foot,ย the wind drops probably to under 15.
Saturday could have some slight offshores, we’ll just have to see by Friday morning to get a better call.
We’ll be dropping some more pics from that great day here at Johnson Avenue.
How the Waves were Tuesday n Wednesday…………plus our Continued swell report below;
SCROLL BELOW THE SLIDESHOW IF YOU WANT TO SEE THE FULL SIZE IMAGES, CLICK ONCE TO OPEN, AND IF YOUR MOUSE SHOWS A + (plus symbol), click again, I have them at 1800 pixels wide (20 inch wide photos on a PC), since they are zoomed out to much.
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Dr. John, taking advantage of a nice line, and no intruders ๐ on a classic Johnson Avenue day. Image 1 of 6 in sequence.
Tuesday, I did a late 3:30 PM session in Satellite Beach, and even with 12 to maybe 15 mph onshore winds, there were some very fun lines/peaks coming in.ย The waves were 3 to 4 foot backs, so an occasionalย head high face did roll thru.ย It was past mid-tide high going low, and only 3 of us out, sunny and a great session.
Pulling it around for that nice trim down the face, Image 2 of 6 sequence. Photos by Oldwaverider
Today, had some nice waist high plus lines at the pier, but I only enjoyed it thru the cams ๐
Thursday we still have some punch left with our 9 to 10 second period 4.5 foot swell all of the day.ย
Image 3 of 6, Dr. John. Johnson Ave on March 10 2012
We should have more waist high to rib waves at the Cape or the Pier, and a little bigger South.ย Winds, back down even more, to the 6 to 8 mph range, East, and start climbing up toward 9 to 12 mph, after 9 or 10 AM.ย (can we try to put a few more numbers into one paragraph? ย ๐
Image 4 of 6 sequence. I took the photos from around 8:30 until 10 or so.
Friday, (or actually late Thursday night, the swell we have starts pulling away slowly), and Friday thru Sunday, a very mild Easterly swell will push toward us, to keep us with something rideable for the next 4 or 5
Image 5 of 6.
days, but do to the weaker swell, the right time of tides will be a lot more important than the strong swell we have thru Thursday (tommorrow).ย It still should be thigh high here at the Cape and waist high down South in Satellite Beach.ย Windsย Friday, 6 to 8 mph ENE climbing toward 10 to 12 mph East by late afternoon.
I still don’t see any offshore days in the picture, so just like this week, I didn’t jump on the Surf Report binge too hard knowing that everyone new we’d have waves, but no “epic” day in sight if you will.
The were definitely some 60 to an occassional 100 yard rides available. Image 6 of 6, Dr. John enjoying a great session.
The photos here are on a nice wave and ride of Dr. John,ย from our awesome chest high day Saturday, March 10th, when the whole neighborhood was out surfing, at some time or another.
SCROLL BELOW THE SLIDESHOW IF YOU WANT TO SEE THE FULL SIZE IMAGES, CLICK ONCE TO OPEN, AND IF YOUR MOUSE SHOWS A + (plus symbol), click again, I have them at 1800 pixels wide, since they are zoomed out to much.
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An early drop-in by Lacey on one of the waves of the day ๐ Image 1 of 10 shot sequence.
Lacey Gallery 1st ten photos.ย Today was a beautiful day at J-Ave!ย The waves were Chest high, some smaller, some bigger, with unexpected offshore winds past 8 AM, and unexpected sunshine.ย The next swell moving in was supposed to throw 20 mph NE winds by 8 or 9 AM, but our Awesome Creator (God ๐ย gave us an extended window of the whole neighborhood out in the water at some time or another.ย And our typical Boardwalk Commentators put in a little overtime, just to make sure everything went well, and so that all of those participants that shredded at least one wave, were commended at least once ๐
Image 2 of 10 sequence. Lacey, dropping in to a nice big right, Sun was bright!
The first sequence is of Lacey (if misspelled i change it in the title later:) ), which which was done in 2 part, because as she dropped into one of the waves of the day, I was shooting right into the Sun,ย the camera had to time-out for 2 seconds after 6 shots, and then I
Beautiful bottom turn.........Image 3 of 10 shots. Johnson Ave., March 10 around 9:30 AM.
managed to pull 3 or 4 more shots on the same ride, but out of direct sun, and as she was getting closer to shore.ย It ended up being like 10 shots from the same wave, and if you look at the longboard on the sand, and how it re-positioned with the guy next to it,ย the span of her ride had to be close to 100 yards give or take.ย Just an awesome ride by Lacey, her style of takeoff, form and grace on that one!
Image 4 of 10 sequence. Possibly a hundred yard perfect wall. Photos by Oldwaverider
The next sequence is of Chad, on another of the bombs of the day, and trying to maintain a stance of modesty from his growing talent, he kept his re-entries in this chest to head high wave slightly conservative, so as not to frustrate others who are still learning to Surf ๐
Lacey cruising along on one of those rare days of the year. The whole neighborhood was out. Image 5 of 10 sequence.
Sunday Surf; expect big overhead chop with 15 to 25 mph winds from the East.ย Probably head high plus at the Cape and 2 to 3 foot overhead down South in Satellite Beach.
I hope y’all enjoy the photos, and I apologize that I had to have the zoom out so much, but I literally could not see anything thru the viewfinder because the sun was so bright, so the best way to even get 4 or 5 pics in a sequence, is to have the zoom way out so you don’t have to move the camera too much.
Image 6 of 10 in sequence. The Sea Oats and the Sun competing for the Lens ๐This is the same long ride by Lacey. Finally out of the direct sun, as she approaches shore. Image 7 of 10 in the ride.Bringing one of the "Waves of the Day" to a close, well almost to a close. Image 8 of 10 sequence.Image 9 of 10 on a perfect Johnson Avenue day, and ride by Lacey. Photos by OldwaveriderHer board hit a big shark.........just kidding. Image 10 of 10 sequence of LaceyChad catching a late drop in on one of the "Bombs" of the day. Image 1 of 7 sequence. Photo by OldwaveriderChad, Seeing that hollow section up ahead ๐ Image 2 of 7 sequence. Johnson Avenue, March 10 2012K-ruisin, Image 3 of 7 sequence. Chad.Little head dip? Image 4 of 7 sequence. Johnson AvenueRail grabbin time to hold that steep high part of the wave. Image 5 of 7 sequence.and he keeps goin and goin ๐ Image 6 of 7 shots. Photos by Oldwaveriderwhen you get a nice wave like that, who cares if it finally closes out.....Image 7 of 7
Don’t forget about Daylight Savings Time. (spring forward-fall back ๐