ART HANSEN (OLDWAVERIDER) – PHOTO GALLERY, Hurricane Sandy overhead photos
Being in the right place at the right time, and a prayer. This photo sequence was one of the small to medium size sets from Epic Sunday at Hightowers, with face heights jumping up to 14 every so often. My friends Mike and Cathy, were talking to a woman taking pictures of the perfect swell, and she asked the woman if she would take some shots of me if I paddled out for a few minutes. So we were defintely in the right place at the right time.
I wasn’t going to paddle out, because I am old :), but a young friend (Seth) I met in the water there a couple months ago in a rib high day, said he would paddle out if I did, so with some perspiration and Old age prayer, I decide to go for it, just to get one wave, and try and avoid the clean up sets (14 to 15 foot faces) on the paddle out, that came thru every 15 or 20 minutes.
I got very lucky with my timing, made it out in 7 minutes with my hair dry, paddled for 2 or 3 waves, but to far out, so I came in a bit, and found one that looked like it was lining up, and then just started the crazy laugh 🙂 It was about a 10 or 11 foot face, I took off more parallel, cause straight bottom turns were almost a guaranteed pounding. I tried to get ahead of the lip, and eventually, just carved up thet wall to get a boost of speed , shot out in front after it broke, and belly boarded in, and back up to the boardwalk in 22 minutes. What a fun Ride, thank God for delivering perfect Hurricanes 🙂
Surf for Tuesday, there should be a little left, waist to chest high from the Cape and going South to Satellite Beach. Winds should be West in the 15 to 20 mph range, thanks to this wonderful cold front.
Monday should be overhead glass down South, and the Cape and CCB are very hard to predict. This swell today was 41 degrees, so the Cape was blocked out from half the swell, and Monday, the angle goes 38 degrees with the falling swell, so I will go with, waist to chest high at the Cape, maybe shoulder high at the Pier. The winds should be around 15 to 20 mph WNW at daybreak and kick up to 25 mph by noon, so get out early. Satellite Beach ought to see some 2 foot overhead sets.
Awesome waves everywhere today, Epic surf for J-Ave, this afternoon for me was amazing fun with nothing but sick long rides from chest to head high, and Chilly! (with only a rash guard, though some crazies were skinning it)
Satellite Beach was the most perfect I have seen it in size and form. High tide this morning, was solid 9 to 12 foot with 14 foot sets, I got 2 video clips of rides, one was double overhead, and doubled on the guys head, but I’ll share that another day.
At low tide Satellite was slamming around noon, solid 8 to 12 foot faces, with 14 foot plus sets, showing up every now and then, so I had to go out for just one wave, since it was the biggest and cleanest I have ever seen by RC’s and Hightowers. A-frames, in the morning with 200 yard ride shoulders, and at low tide, just as clean, but with a lot more closeouts. But I got my one wave 🙂
The photos are of a guy on a double overhead wave (thought he’s hanging at the top but you can see his own body height under him and a spare 2 feet up top, so maybe more than 12 foot face), and the other is just an insane wall towering over 3 guys.
We still have a great chance at having 20 foot face size at the Pier (but it may not be until 3 AM Friday going Saturday), w North winds at 30 to 35 mph, which would be about 6 degrees offshore, so it could be semi-clean, and decent shoulders 🙂 The full swell period of 15 seconds hits around 3 PM Friday, so we could have the 18 to 20 then, yeah, I am jumping around a bit, but if it gets bigger than that, it will be in the middle of the night, early Saturday morning.
My final call at daybreak, is 10 to 15 foot faces between the Cape and the Satellite Beach (RC’s), and by 3 PM, from 15 to 18 foot faces. I don’t care if I get egg on my face, the biggest hurricane swell I have seen was 12 foot at 17 seconds, in the 15 foot plus face range, so this swell being 18 at 15 seconds, the only thing that may hold back the size is that it is moving almost direct North without a big enough fetch to generate the expected size. This will be a learning swell for me.
I would say since the winds on weather.com say it turns North at 8 AM from NNE, that by 11 AM, about 5 hours after high tide, it could turn clean. Winds in the 30 plus mph range is rideable, TS Hanna had 35 mph winds with 15 foot face heights at the pier and bigger at RC’s.
The TV cams will be at the pier I am sure, so it could be an awesome spectacle! and the safest place to surf.
Our ocean floor here is so shallow , unlike around the Bahamas, only until you get to Hatteras does the water get deep, but…………since this swell is so powerful and big,
it could provide a 1 to 1 ratio or 1.2 to 1 ratio on the wave that hits the beach. In Hawaii, an 18 foot 15 second period swell that we will have by mid-day Friday, would produce 50 foot plus faces sizes at Jaws, Maui, but for us, if it gives a 1 to 1 ratio, then maybe 18 foot faces. I’ll take it.
Have fun, be safe, and take a look at the epic size that God provides 🙂
Friday still on track for 18 to 20 plus foot faces according to the models. That means 10 to 12 foot backs of the waves, afternoon. With 50 plus mph onshore winds 🙂
Magicseaweed shows the same swell model size here (not the face size, not the wave back size, but the swell size) check Magicseaweed here.
Bob Freeman’s report shows 10 to 12 foot backs for Friday, down by Satellite here.
PLAN ON HURRICANE WEATHER FRIDAY AND LOTS OF FLOODING! THIS ONE WILL BE WITHIN 200 MILES OF SHORE AND MAY HAVE A LOT OF SURGE.
Saturday is still looking like 12 to 16 foot faces depending on where ya go and it does drop from daybreak till afternoon fairly fast , with semi-glass NNW winds, but unless ya wait till mid-afternoon, you won’t have winds less than 30 mph.
Sunday, looks like 10 to 12 foot plus faces and semi-glass winds with bigger sets of course.
The Video above is 3 people getting towed into Nazarre, Portugal, Kelly Slater caught the wave of the day, looks like a 30 foot face drop, really nice wall.
This was the place that Garrett caught last year a 9 foot 16 second period swell that produced an 80 foot face wave. (they get a phenomena called refraction from other effects coming from other breaks North and South of Nazarre) So normally, the biggest sets would come in at twice the swell size, but Nazarre’s 9 foot swell becomes like a 36 foot swell, and doubles the face heights on the biggest sets.
Start jogging, paddling, eating, sleeping, this could be the biggest waves we have had in years.
This is the largest model for a storm that I have seen, and of which for 3 days straight has been at 12 and increasing in model size and intensity.
The Epic day is shaping up to be Sunday October 29, 2012, with the models showing a drop to 12.5 feet at 14 seconds. The wave size for Sunday, would be a minimum of double overhead, most likely in Satellite Beach in the 12 to 16 foot face size with side-shore winds in the 20 mph range, NNW. It could be as much as 12.5 degrees offshore if it is true NNW if you will. Offshore but very strong for the Cape. Keep in mind, that when I surfed TS Hanna, in 2009, we had 12 to 14 foot faces at the pier with 25 to 35 mph NW winds, and I got one epic ride!
Monday is the next epic day also with double overhead waves and strong 12 to 18 mph NNW offshore winds for the Cape and North CCB only, based on the models right now 🙂
Obviously, models change, but his is exciting, and the Cape, and North of 4rth Street North is the only logical place to surf if you want winds that are offshore 🙂
Friday, with the models showing 18 foot at 14 seconds, we would see a few 20 foot faces roll in like on the October “91” halloween swell !
The screenshots above and below are the swell size progression for the week in bar charts and the second chart shows the size and swell direction and wind direction as the models now show.
NOTE: In the photo I took below, the swell was an ENE swell granted, that was 6.5 feet at 12 seconds that produced a 12 foot face at least in one photo I took in this series,
and the swell we have coming shows 18 foot at 14 seconds on Friday at noon…for now with severe onshore winds, but it is not hard to interpolate, although, you can’t just triple the face size because of the swell size, (in the photo to the left was a 9 to 10 foot face before it barreled, and the 12 to 13 foot face photo in the series was double the swell model size) but you can at a bear minimum, multiply it by 1.2, which would give you some 18 to 20 foot plus faces. Anyhow, the swell will most likely drop, but either way, it is totally fun to see the models the biggest that I have seen since 2004.
CHUCK – SURFING VIDEO – ONE NICE 12 SECOND WAVE
Sunday swell fades, doubtful anything will be left for Sunday, but we have an incoming windswell on Monday, that may turn ground swell on Friday with some serious overhead size possibilities.
The video was taken of Chuck down south, and was a nice left, about a 12 second ride peeling nicely, semi-glass, Satellite Beach.
CHUCK – SURF VIDEO OF ONE NICE LEFT
UPDATE AT 4:30 PM, OCTOBER 16TH , TUESDAY AFTERNOON/NIGHT! The waves jumped 50% in size since this morning and doubled in power, from 6 feet at 10 seconds at 8 AM to 9.5 feet at 14 seconds, at the 120 mile buoy.
The Rafael swell should be building a little today, it was sluggish at high tide this morning, but we tried to catch the winds offshore down south for the early size. It was almost flat at the Cape this morning, and very small at the pier. But south of 2nd light, it was waist to chest high, with a few bigger drops. I took some video of Chuck, and will compile a full video, but for now, this is a nice left that he caught on semi-glass waist high wave 🙂
Wednesday should be bigger, shoulder high at the Cape to 1 to 2 foot over head down south in Satellite Beach, with MAYBE, NNW TO N WINDS UNTIL 9 AM WHICH IS OFFSHORE FOR THE CAPE (as of 7 PM tuesday night weather channel for the Cape), THEN NNE to East winds in the morning, in the 4 to 6 mph range which should be fun and clean for the Cape. It would definitely be worth a trip down south to catch it a foot or two bigger with the light onshore winds.
Thursday morning, it should be a little smaller probably waist high at the Cape, and Shoulder high on the set waves in Satellite Beach, but we may have some glassy SSW 6 to 10 mph winds, so down south of 6th street south is your best bet if you want offshore winds. SSW is sideshore for the Cape.
Enjoy the swell.
CHUCK – PHOTO GALLERY
Hurricane Rafael should be sending us some Chest to Head High waves with some glass Tuesday…more in a minute
These photos I took at J-Ave from around 11:30 to 12:30 Pm. Monday morning October 15, 2012 , they are the remains of our outgoing swell, with the piggyback of Hurricane Rafael coming in. I got pictures of 3 or 4 people but these were a range of thigh to shoulder high drops/waves. Chuck had some really nice long rides come thru on this session 🙂
Tuesday morning at DAWN PATROL, we should have some NW to NNW winds in the 6 to 12 mph range from chest to head high from the Cape going to Satellite Beach. By 10 AM (here at the Cape), the winds turn North, so anywhere South, the winds will be sideshore to onshore. Best best is the Jetty to 4rth Street North. Minuteman causeway, NNW winds are usually onshore winds or sideshore at best.
Anyhow Tuesday, I am calling Rib to Chest high at the Cape, and Head High down South. It is hard to tell if the long period part of Rafael has hit the 120 mile buoy, I don’t think it will really hit till late tonight. Winds start offshore SW at around 4 mph at 11 PM tonight, and by 8 AM tuesday moring, they wrap around to NW and NNW by 9 AM, so DAWN PATROL IS CRITICAL! Plus, the tide will be low going high (high tide around 8:45 AM Cocoa Beach), so a 7 AM paddle out is best, else, high tide with onshore winds is your option by 10 AM 🙂
Wednesday morning should be bigger than Tuesday 5 foot at 13 second period, so that’s a powerful swell, with Shoulder high at the Cape (with bigger sets), and Overhead sets in Satellite Beach. (Satellite Beach could see some 2 to 3 foot overhead rogue sets) The winds are North for Wednesday morning, up until maybe 8:30 to 9 AM in the 8 mph to 10 range which is slight offshore for the Cape down to 4rth Street North, and onshore South of Minuteman Causeway.
Thursday morning could be rib to chest high from the Cape to Satellite, with offshore winds for the Cape to 4rth Street North.
We should have waves thru the weekend, but it’s too early to tell on the winds. Tonight, if I see any wind change for Tuesday AM, I’ll do a quick update.
I hope you enjoy the photos/surf pictures of brother Chuck here at the Cape.
Big incoming windswell approaching but more on that in a minute…THURSDAY NIGHT SURF UPDATE, FINALLY! SEE BELOW THE VIDEO, FOR Thurs. 10/11/12, 11 PM update;
Here is a Surf Video that a buddy of mine from high school’s Son (David ) went on and just got back from El Salvador, four of them surfed spectacular waves.
On October 2, 2012 four friends traveled south from Florida to Punta Roca, El Salvador in search of the best waves they could possibly find. David Bondy influenced Truc Nguyen, Drew Hoffman, and Jeremy Romero to go on a 3 day trip that turned into a experience of a life time. Enjoy some of the out of control footage from this 3 day adventure.
Edited by: Chuck Magid
Brought to you by:
The Bondy Collection & Magid Music Hope you enjoy the video, an nice job of ripping, a great section in the middle of some classic wipeouts, and some all around good size with some big sets to add a thrill. Enjoy the video!
We have a huge wind swell coming in that should have a number of overhead chop days, high tides will be the more user friendly paddle out 🙂 Look for next Wednesday (10/17) as a big, overhead ground swell and glassy day, with a chance of some North wind glass on Tuesday morning, but not as big as Wednesday the 17th. Yes, it’s almost a week out so the glassy day can change, but that’s the call for now.
Enjoy the fact that we have lots of waves coming, chop or whatever.
Have a Great Friday!