Friday still on track for 18 to 20 plus foot faces according to the models. That means 10 to 12 foot backs of the waves, afternoon. With 50 plus mph onshore winds 🙂
Magicseaweed shows the same swell model size here (not the face size, not the wave back size, but the swell size) check Magicseaweed here.
Bob Freeman’s report shows 10 to 12 foot backs for Friday, down by Satellite here.
PLAN ON HURRICANE WEATHER FRIDAY AND LOTS OF FLOODING! THIS ONE WILL BE WITHIN 200 MILES OF SHORE AND MAY HAVE A LOT OF SURGE.
Saturday is still looking like 12 to 16 foot faces depending on where ya go and it does drop from daybreak till afternoon fairly fast , with semi-glass NNW winds, but unless ya wait till mid-afternoon, you won’t have winds less than 30 mph.
Sunday, looks like 10 to 12 foot plus faces and semi-glass winds with bigger sets of course.
The Video above is 3 people getting towed into Nazarre, Portugal, Kelly Slater caught the wave of the day, looks like a 30 foot face drop, really nice wall.
This was the place that Garrett caught last year a 9 foot 16 second period swell that produced an 80 foot face wave. (they get a phenomena called refraction from other effects coming from other breaks North and South of Nazarre) So normally, the biggest sets would come in at twice the swell size, but Nazarre’s 9 foot swell becomes like a 36 foot swell, and doubles the face heights on the biggest sets.
Start jogging, paddling, eating, sleeping, this could be the biggest waves we have had in years.
Oldwaverider
Johnson Avenue Surfers 