JOHN L. GALLERY – Cape Canaveral Surfing photos from Tropical Storm Maria Day 1 on Monday September 13 2011, Tropical Storm Ophelia update, Surf report and surf forecast for Thursday (9/22/11) thru Saturday (7:30 PM) for Cape Canaveral n Cocoa Beach (posted 09/21/11)


JOHN L. – Photo Gallery  

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Image 1 of 3 sequence, John on a nice waist to stomach high right, first day of TS Maria at the Cape, September 13 2011
Image 1 of 3 sequence, John on a nice waist to stomach high right, first day of TS Maria at the Cape, September 13 2011
Image 2 of 3 sequence, John on a nice waist to stomach high right, first day of TS Maria at the Cape, September 13 2011 , photo by Art
Image 2 of 3 sequence, John on a nice waist to stomach high right, first day of TS Maria at the Cape, September 13 2011 , photo by Art

WE HAVE MORE WAVES COMING! … I’ll give the update down below after a couple words about the photos here.

The first actual day of Tropical Storm Maria brought some pretty fun thigh to waist high waves around the Cape and Johnson.  I got out late, did a quick sesh, and then wanted to get some pics of Dr. John and some others.

I hope ya enjoy the pics, it was a good time taking the photos, and I do apologize again, I left the zoom on to high, oops, my bad 😉

Dr. John was having a good day, with both great lefts and rights to even out the morning.

Friday surf is the first day I’ll talk about.  Thursday,  small wind chop, go south if you want waist high or bigger chop.  Save your energy.  Friday,  may get a small additional push of a SE swell, very small push, but…it could very well be waist to some chest high sets depending on where you go.  The wind should be West , 4 to 6 mph at daybreak switching to SW before Noon, and then onshore.  Could be a fun day, maybe not much power, but a fun morning sesh.

Image 3 of 3 sequence, John,  first day of TS Maria at the Cape, September 13 2011
Image 3 of 3 sequence, John, first day of TS Maria at the Cape, September 13 2011

Saturday and Sunday may be similar to Friday.   Offshore in the morning, remants of a lingering wind, non-ground swell. I could be way off base thinking this little wind swell that came down as a NE’ster could be hanging like this, but it seems to be coupling up with a little SE swell being pushed ahead of Tropical Storm Ophelia.  It’s not actually part of Ophelia, but it seems to be keeping a constant low pressure working out there just enough to push in some mild wind swell waves.

A nice left cruiser, Image 1 of 2 sequence, John on a nice waist high left, first day of TS Maria at the Cape, September 13 2011 , photo by Art
A nice left cruiser, Image 1 of 2 sequence, John on a nice waist high left, first day of TS Maria at the Cape, September 13 2011 , photo by Art

Sunday, late,  TS Ophelia, starts really making it’s push from the SE, and should be around 1000 miles East/Southeast of Miami by Monday afternoon.   Sunday may have some weird waves from both swells, with offshore winds so it could be fun for most of the day.

Monday morning, could be chest high plus down South, and maybe waist plus at the Cape with offshore winds in the morning until maybe mid-morning.  BUT…WINDS ARE IFFY THIS FAR OUT TRYING TO CALL, UNTIL WE ARE 48 HOURS BEFORE THE DAY OF SURF, AND THEN THEY ARE ONLY ABOUT 80% ACCURATE!

Image 2 of 2 sequence, John on a nice waist high left, first day of TS Maria at the Cape, September 13 2011
Image 2 of 2 sequence, John on a nice waist high left, first day of TS Maria at the Cape, September 13 2011

Tuesday could be some shoulder to head high waves and possibly Wednesday. This all could change easily, but I just wanted to share what the models are showing right now.

A sweet large set wave for the day and Dr. John driving a nice hard right.  Image 1 of 3 shot sequence.  Tropical Storm Maria Day one at the Cape.  Photo by Art
A sweet large set wave for the day and and Dr. John driving a nice hard right. Image 1 of 3 shot sequence. Tropical Storm Maria Day one at the Cape. Photo by Art
Image 2 of 3 shot sequence. Tropical Storm Maria Day one at the Cape.
Image 2 of 3 shot sequence. Tropical Storm Maria Day one at the Cape.
Image 3 of 3 shot sequence. Tropical Storm Maria Day one at the Cape.
Image 3 of 3 shot sequence. Tropical Storm Maria Day one at the Cape.

We’ll stop there.  Ophelia as the models show right now, may never become a Cane, but it could give us the same beautiful waves that Maria did.

Keep your fingers and prayers up for a good day Friday, and then especially Monday and Tuesday.

Later,

oldwaverider

Photos from Thursday Tropical Storm Maria (taken Thursday, 9/15/2011) and How the Waves were, Insane 20 foot overhead barrels Teahupoo video from the BILLABONG PRO TAHITI 2011, Surf Report Saturday afternoon (at 1:00 PM) and Surf Forecast for Cape Canaveral n Cocoa Beach (posted September 17, 2011)



Music by the Fyoogs http://thefyoogs.com

(That’s the kind of music that should be in a surf video, as opposed to rap 😉

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Image 1 of 5, MIke on a shoulder high right at 4rth street, Tropical Storm Maria, Thursday September 15, 2011, taken by yours truly :)
Image 1 of 5, MIke on a shoulder high right at 4rth street, Tropical Storm Maria, Thursday September 15, 2011, taken by yours truly 🙂

Okay, you know my obsession with huge wave video…This was the contest that Kelly Slater won (as I mentioned in a post a week ago), where Kelly skipped the J-Bay ASP event to catch the Epic 30 foot plus Fiji surf back in July at Cloudbreak, which gave him the warmup that he wanted or needed to explode at Teahupoo Billabong Pro.  Some of the waves in this video have 20 foot plus overhead barrels, and some brutal looking wipeouts. Okay, my digression is over, back to Maria photos and incoming surf…

Image 2 of 5, MIke on a shoulder high right at 4rth street, Tropical Storm Maria, Thursday September 15, 2011
Image 2 of 5, MIke on a shoulder high right at 4rth street, Tropical Storm Maria, Thursday September 15, 2011

We have our incoming windswell Nor’easter rolling in, it just hit at 11 AM,  4.5 ft at 9 seconds at the 120 buoy and the 20 mile is showing 3.5 feet at 10 seconds, so we should be seeing some waist high choppy waves at the Cape and some chest high chop down South.  It appears that this wind swell is gonna hang for the next 3 to 5 days, around the same size, and with onshore winds.  At least we’ll have something rideable, though I’m just gonna let my wounds heal from the last two hurricanes/tropicals 🙂

Image 3 of 5, Tropical Storm Maria, Thursday September 15, 2011
Image 3 of 5, Tropical Storm Maria, Thursday September 15, 2011
Image 4 of 5, Tropical Storm Maria, Thursday September 15, 2011
Image 4 of 5, Tropical Storm Maria, Thursday September 15, 2011
Image 5 of 5, Tropical Storm Maria, Thursday September 15, 2011
Image 5 of 5, Tropical Storm Maria, Thursday September 15, 2011
Image 1 of 3, Mike on a shoulder high left, Thursday September 15th, 2011, Tropical Storm Maria, photo by Art
Image 1 of 3, Mike on a shoulder high left, Thursday September 15th, 2011, Tropical Storm Maria, photo by Art
Image 2 of 3, Mike on a shoulder high left, Thursday September 15th, 2011, Tropical Storm Maria, photo by Art
Image 2 of 3, Mike on a shoulder high left, Thursday September 15th, 2011, Tropical Storm Maria, photo by Art
Image 3 of 3, Mike on a shoulder high left, Thursday September 15th, 2011, Tropical Storm Maria, photo by Art
Image 3 of 3, Mike on a shoulder high left, Thursday September 15th, 2011, Tropical Storm Maria, photo by Art

The photos are from Slater Lane/4rth street North on Thursday (9/15/2011) taken by myself of my old surf buddy from Lakeland Mike.  The first set is a sequence of 5 shots of a nice shoulder high right.  The next is a shoulder high left of 3 shots.  Really fun, epic day!

I’ll be posting more photos from the Cape and the neighborhood, and some more photos from Katia down at O’ Club, in the next week.

Later,

oldwaverider

Photos from the 2nd big day of Katia, How Maria’s waves were the second day at the Cape, How Maria will be Thursday and Friday, Sea Lice and Jellyfish Alert, Surf Report Wednesday afternoon (at 3:00 PM) and Surf Forecast for Cape Canaveral n Cocoa Beach (posted September 14, 2011)


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This is what we are seeing on the beach and in the water today, when they feel like they weigh 15 pounds while they are filled with water. The images came from the following website:  http://www.asdn.net/asdn/nanotools/afm_in_liquids.shtml
This is what we are seeing on the beach and in the water today, when they feel like they weigh 15 pounds while they are filled with water. The images came from the following website: http://www.asdn.net/asdn/nanotools/afm_in_liquids.shtml

OUCH!  Man, the Sea Lice were absolutely brutal today.  The Moon Jellyfish were also floating around in their 8 inch to 1 foot diameter glory.   After I felt like someone was testing out a low amperage taser inside my boardshorts,  then I was forced to do 3 or 4 reverse dumbell curls with a 15 to 20 pound jellyfish 😉  Overall, it’s pretty funny to think about.  The water at the Cape was not crowded, gee, I wonder why.  (The reason why the 15 or 20 pound jellyfish, is because I guess this type of Jellyfish really holds water while floating)

Dropping in for a sweet left at O' Club, Thursday Sept. 8 2011, Hurricane Katia, photo by Me :)
Dropping in for a sweet left at O' Club, Thursday Sept. 8 2011, Hurricane Katia, photo by Me 🙂

Note:  As I mentioned a week or two ago, the Sea Lice are larvae from jelly fish, and are the little critters that crawl up your shorts.  However, for those that get nailed by a Moon Jellyfish (this text is from http://www.longbeachislandjournal.com/animals/moon-jellyfish; Fortunately the stingers of this species are relatively mild. Most people that come into contact with moon jellyfish have little reaction. Some may feel a bit of a stinging sensation but even this can be relatively mild compared to what can occur with more troublesome jellyfish species. Many moon jellies you find no longer have any stingers attached to them.  Okay, now that that is out of the way, back to surf conditions, Photos, etc.

2nd shot in sequence, Hurricane Katia, Officers Club
2nd shot in sequence, Hurricane Katia, Officers Club

The photos I took last Thursday, at O’ Club, September 8th 2011, and as I mentioned in a post a couple days ago,  Thursday morning, it was huge like Wednesday, 1 to 4 foot overhead, not peeling as good, more closeouts, and by 11 ish the size dropped to just overhead, and by the time I took these pictures, it was shoulder to head high, with an occasional overhead wave.  It was the first time I used the camera, so yeah, the lighting bites, the sun was glaring on the LCD screen, so it was almost guesswork  🙂  But it was pretty cool, cause the 16 power zoom brought 250 yard plus surfers in fairly close.

3rd shot in sequence, Guess it closed out :) Hurricane Katia, Officers Club
3rd shot in sequence, Guess it closed out 🙂 Hurricane Katia, Officers Club

How the Waves were today, around 8 AM at the Cape, it was waist to chest high and peeling left and right beautifully.  The winds were NNW around 6, and switched North before 11.  There were more closeouts than yesterday, but if you waited 5 or 6 minutes for a wave there were 100 to 150 yard rides to be had.  I saw Scooter get a few on his 7’2″ inch Quiet Flight board.  I don’t know if his trip to Costa Rica had anything to do with his being all over the face of the waves, but he was definitely having an entertaining rip session.  His wife was having a great longboard session and was tough as nails with the Sea Lice and Jellyfish 🙂

Image 1 of 6 shot sequence, Hurricane Katia, Officers Club , Sept. 8 2011
Image 1 of 6 shot sequence, Hurricane Katia, Officers Club , Sept. 8 2011

Thursday, size should be around stomach to chest high at the Cape and close to head high in Satellite Beach.  Winds ought to be WSW at daybreak in the 5 to 8 mph range  (and a few hours before, so there probably won’t be any 7:00 AM morning sickness like there was today).  The winds swing around to NW by 10, NNW by 11 ish, and onshore by noon,  so again, don’t hang out late tonight if that keeps you from a great early morning session.  High tide was around 9:30 AM today so I guess that brings it to 10:20 Thursday.

Image 2 of 6 shot sequence, Hurricane Katia, Officers Club , Sept. 8 2011
Image 2 of 6 shot sequence, Hurricane Katia, Officers Club , Sept. 8 2011

Friday the size drops but should still be thigh (Cape) to stomach (down South at Patrick or Satellite) , winds light SW by daybreak swinging to NNW by 11 ish, and then onshore.

We have a Northeaster swell that rolls in on top of the leftover Maria waves Saturday, but it should be brisk NE winds to go with it, so don’t get your hopes up for perfection, if you look at it that way, then maybe it’ll be fun.

Image 3 of 6 shot sequence, Hurricane Katia, Officers Club , Sept. 8 2011
Image 3 of 6 shot sequence, Hurricane Katia, Officers Club , Sept. 8 2011
Image 4 of 6 shot sequence, Hurricane Katia, Officers Club , Sept. 8 2011
Image 4 of 6 shot sequence, Hurricane Katia, Officers Club , Sept. 8 2011
Image 5 of 6 shot sequence, Hurricane Katia, Officers Club , Sept. 8 2011
Image 5 of 6 shot sequence, Hurricane Katia, Officers Club , Sept. 8 2011
Image 6 of 6 shot sequence, Hurricane Katia, Officers Club , Sept. 8 2011
Image 6 of 6 shot sequence, Hurricane Katia, Officers Club , Sept. 8 2011

Man we have been blessed with great waves!

Have a great Thursday sesh!

oldwaverider

How Maria’s waves were the first day at the Cape, Photos from Tropical Storm Maria, Maria waves for Wednesday, Sea Lice and Jellyfish Alert, Surf Report Monday night (at 6:00 PM) and Surf Forecast for Cape Canaveral n Cocoa Beach (posted September 13, 2011)


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Dr. John pulling a hard right bottom turn, the first real day of Tropical Storm Maria, at the Cape.
Dr. John pulling a hard right bottom turn, the first real day of Tropical Storm Maria, at the Cape.

The photos here are from the Cape today.  It was thigh to waist high and glassy early at the Cape, but we all got out late…Or at least I did, okay, had some work to do 🙂  Down South I haven’t heard but I assume it hit chest high solid today.  Dr. John for the first two pics, then Ron, followed by Chad.

(My apologies, I left the camera on full zoom from taking 250-300 yards out pictures down South from Hurricane Katia last Thursday,  so the centering got screwed up on a lot of these pics, still learning my friends camera 😉

What is Maria gonna bring us for Wednesday and Thursday ?  Besides Sea Lice and Jellyfish? (actually I didn’t find them to annoying but for some, the reactions to the Lice were more intense)

Wednesday will be close to chest high for the Cape and Head high plus down South.  RC’s will probably have a few one foot overhead drops…yeaaaawwwwwwwww!   The Cape should have 8 mph NNW winds until around 10 AM, then onshore.  Satellite Beach is showing NW winds until 10 AM so actually, Satellite Beach with light NW winds,  that is the place to be.  It will have some overhead drops and shoulder high lines.

Dr. John on a medium size left for the day.  Maria day one at the Cape.
Dr. John on a medium size left for the day. Maria day one at the Cape.

Thursday, about the same, the period of the swell drops a bit and maybe the size 6.4  inch drop, almost chest high Cape, head high down South.  The winds though are better,  4 to 8 mph WNW winds at daybreak so down South will have the size and form.  The winds swing around to NNW by 11 ish so don’t wait around to get out 😉

Friday, who cares?  Just kidding;  Probably waist to stomach at the Cape, and chest to shoulder high down South, and probably a few hours of offshore winds until 10.  Wednesday night I’ll have a fix on the actual wind direction and speed.

We may have a NE’ r wind swell coming in Friday and Saturday but don’t expect much from it.

The pics are from the neighborhood taken late around 9:30 to 10 AM, it was already blowing N, but still fun waves and the shoulders held up great so we may be in for a really sweet session Wed and Thurs if the swell gives us that kind of

Chad on the wave of the day...with no wax on board ;)
Chad on the wave of the day...with no wax on board 😉
Ron on a perfect medium size 'backside' right.
Ron on a perfect medium size 'backside' right.

foreshadowing 🙂

oldwaverider

Tropical Storm Maria waves for Tuesday, Hurricane Katia photos from Thursday 9/8/11, Surf Report Monday night (at 9:00 PM) and Surf Forecast for Cape Canaveral n Cocoa Beach (posted September 12, 2011)


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This was actually image 1 of a 3 shot sequence.  Officers Club on September 8 2011 from Hurricane Katia, after the swell had dropped a few feet by early afternoon.  Photos by Oldwaverider
This was actually image 1 of a 3 shot sequence. Officers Club on September 8 2011 from Hurricane Katia, after the swell had dropped a few feet by early afternoon. Photos by Oldwaverider
Nice shoulder to head high right.
Nice shoulder to head high right.

I have a couple of photos here I took at Officers Club, last Thursday (9/8/11)  afternoon shots…And Maria’s waves are coming in for at least Tuesday thru Thursday, and probably a day longer.

Maria’s first noticeable waves will be in Tuesday morning.  Waist plus at the Cape, and it should be chest high plus down SouthSW winds from daybreak to 9ish, switching to NNW by 10 ish and onshore by 11 or so.

Wednesday could be some head high waves South and chest or less at the Cape.  Winds looking to WNW at daybreak, switching to NNW by 10 ish and then North.  Wednesday looks to be the swell peak mid-day maybe but it shouldn’t drop much on Thursday.

Thursday , possible chest at the Cape and shoulder to head high down South.   Might be slight offshore, but by Tuesday night I’ll have a more accurate wind guess 🙂

Same wave.
Same wave.

The photos were from last Thursday (9/8/11)In the morning it was about the same size as Wednesday but not as many open shoulders. More closeouts.  Size was still 1 to3 foot overhead plus, and started dropping by noonI took these photos around 1 PM, but they were still some really fun looking waves.  I have a lot to learn on camera settings 🙂

Tropical Storm Maria update, Surf Report Monday Morning (at 7:15 AM) and Surf Forecast for Cape Canaveral n Cocoa Beach (posted September 12, 2011)


There may be some chest high surf down South if you’re willing to gamble the drive.  Maria actually came in a little at the 120 buoy last night and even trickled in there late morning yesterday.

We have offshore winds this morning, so at the right spot down South a little, even though it’s high tide at 8:10 AM, at 10 AM you may have some decent size around chest with SSW winds for an hour or so.  We will update this in a couple of hours, but just for those wanting a Monday morning surf adjustment 🙂

September 11th, 2001 remembered, Tropical Storm Maria update, Surf Report Sunday Morning (at 8:30 AM) and Surf Forecast for Cape Canaveral n Cocoa Beach (posted September 11, 2011)


A beautiful resort now on the site of the once desolate surf break of K-38 Mexico.  Taken by a surf buddy Rob in Newport Beach, Ca
A beautiful resort now on the site of the once desolate surf break of K-38 Mexico. Taken by a surf buddy Rob in Newport Beach, Ca
September 11, 2011…10 years passed.   I was in Lakeland, on Sunday morning after the attack on Tuesday.  I heard the most beautiful and incredible version of “Let There Be Peace on Earth” sang in church as a solo by a woman at First Methodist Church, a woman who was in Manhattan 5 days berfore on the day the Planes hit the Towers. Needless to say, she had a fair amount of emotion when she sang the song to her home congregation in Lakeland.  (this is actually a blog and not a surf report so I have to digress once in a while 🙂

Tropical Storm Maria update…Maria models have dropped a bit in size, not much but some.

Wednesday looks to be the biggest day still, with slight NNW offshore winds at North wind breaksProbably overhead by a foot or two down south with sideshore winds, and chest to head high in the Cape through North Cocoa Beach in the semi-glass to maybe glassy wind direction.  By Monday night I should have more accurate wind data.

Thursday is now looking to be the glassiest day, in the chest to head high plus range depending on where you surf.  As we always mention, winds can be iffy, at least until 36 to 48 hours prior to the day.  But it looks as though West winds for the better part of the morning and then onshore by noon.

Friday it looks to drop off, but by Wednesday we should have something more definitive.

We did have something hit the 120 in the 3.5 to 4.3 foot range at 11 seconds, so there could be something ridable at the right tides today, but with slight onshore winds.

Count your blessings with all this great surf we’ve had this year 🙂

oldwaverider

Tropical Storm Maria update, How the Waves were Friday morning with Hurricane Katia leftovers, Surf Report Friday night (at 7:30 PM) and Surf Forecast for Cape Canaveral n Cocoa Beach (posted September 09, 2011)


Clay in a sweet barrel in Punta Mango, El Salvador.  Photo provided by my buddy Rob in Newport Beach, Ca.
Clay in a sweet barrel in Punta Mango, El Salvador. Photo provided by my buddy Rob in Newport Beach, Ca.

TS Maria updateHow the Waves were today;   The Cape and Cocoa Beach got blocked out today, big time.   😦

I surfed Lori Wilson Park, and it was fun for awhile, thigh to occasional waist high, glassy.   Definitely less closeouts than the last 3 days.

O’ Club was solid chest high and there was some shoulder high sets according to a couple of friends that surfed there.

TS Maria is now following the familiar cane alley as the last few.  Definitely not a reason to get complacent 🙂  (a natural alarmist thing maybe)

Wednesday appears to be the biggest day.  The image here shows the model at Stormpulse.com with Maria East and slightly North of Jacksonville, 650 miles out as a Category 2.  Based on that position, Wednesday morning could be the big day with offshore winds.   The storm generally needs to be east of us and slightly North to have more Westerly than NW’ly winds.  (Grammar and Spell check is not an option.  These posts take an OCD person 45 minutes 🙂

Hurricane Maria, the Friday 5 PM 9-9-11, projected model position for this Wednesday.  The arrow I drew, shows the hopeful position on Wednesday morning so the winds would be offshore.  Image compliments of Stormpulse.com
Hurricane Maria, the Friday 5 PM 9-9-11, projected model position for this Wednesday. The arrow I drew, shows the hopeful position on Wednesday morning so the winds would be offshore. Image compliments of Stormpulse.com

Thursday could be the second , but smaller glassy day.

The storm is moving WNW at 16 mph, not that that is interesting data, but it is moving faster than Katia, so thus less days of glassy waves, but we’ll see.

Anyhow, I hope y’all got some of the best waves of your Florida surfing life.  I got my best Florida ride at O’ Club Wednesday.

The photo is a guy named Clay, a friend of a friend Rob, who lives in Newport Beach, Ca.  Punta Mango, El Salvador, I believe in 2009.

Rest up, another Cane is on the Way…

oldwaverider

How the Waves were Thursday, Tropical Storm Maria, Hurricane Katia update, Surf Report Wednesday night (at 8:45 PM) and Surf Forecast for Cape Canaveral n Cocoa Beach (posted September 08, 2011)


A nice waist high line in K-38 Mexico.  My buddy Rob surfing in March of this year.  A surf break that myself and a buddy Cliff surfed many years ago, camping on the Cliff's 150 feet above the beach.
A nice waist high line in K-38 Mexico. My buddy Rob surfing in March of this year. A surf break that myself and a buddy Cliff surfed many years ago, camping on the Cliff's 150 feet above the beach.

The Waves Thursday at O’ Club kept trying to hit double overhead today, just like Wednesday, but only made it to the 3 foot overhead, with an occassional bigger set wave.  I don’t think that it was as good as yesterday.  The closeouts were a little more dominant, but because of the size, at least 100 yard rides were to be had, unlike the 1 and half to 2 football field rides that were for the taking if you waited 30 minutes for “That” wave on Wednesday at O’ Club.

Johnson Avenue was similar for closeouts and had some head high plus waves early, the Pier a little bigger.  The considerable size difference we had both yesterday and today (Thursday) from the Cape on one end of the spectrum to Patrick and Satellite Beach allowed for the waves down South to hold up much longer for some really nice shoulders and some pretty intense power.

Katia is delivering it’s last real day of surf for us Friday.  We should see waist-high at Canaveral , IF, it’s not blocked out by the Cape’s point sticking out into the Ocean.  It ought to be chest to shoulder-high as you work your way toward Satellite Beach.  The winds should be West switching to SW around noon or one, and then to SSW to onshore.

Maria looks to be sending us some swell Sunday thru Thursday, but keep in mind the models are still developing, and it is heading West so until it becomes a Cane, the models can diminish quite a bit.

Fun waves we’ve had huh, between Irene and Katia.

If you make it out Friday morning, have fun and take pictures and feel free to send them to me.

Thanks and have a great weekend!

oldwaverider

How the Waves were Wednesday morning, New Tropical Depression No. 14, Hurricane Katia update, Surf Report Wednesday night (at 5:15 PM) and Surf Forecast for Cape Canaveral n Cocoa Beach (posted September 07, 2011)


Tropical Storm Maria is still 2600 miles Southeast of us, but by Monday it will be quite close. Compliments of stormpulse.com
Tropical Storm Maria is still 2600 miles Southeast of us, but by Monday it will be quite close. Compliments of stormpulse.com

My apologies.  I should have stuck to my original gut instinct, as I shared on last nights post/report, regarding the size.  This swell that only hit 6 feet at 14 seconds at the 120 buoy created 10 foot plus solid faces this morning at O’ Club.

It was 3 to 4 foot overhead (on the major sets, with an ocassional, rogue wave too, maybe 1 foot bigger on the face)  at O’ Club, probably a foot bigger at RC’s.  Word was, it was closing out pretty bad in Satellite Beach, but O’ Club, if you let the closeouts roll by,  epic form with no closeout was to be had.

If you tried to make a full bottom turn, short board or longboard, you got pounded.  I learned fast.  Take the drop and slam hard halfway down, and back up under the lip and there were plenty 150 to 200 yard rides to be had.  YES, THAT’S WHAT I SAID.  THE SET WAVES AROUND 11 AM, IF YOU LET THE CLOSEOUTS PASS BY, AND THERE WERE PERFECT WAVES ALL THE WAY TO THE BEACH.   THE PADDLE OUT WAS PROBABLY 250 TO 300 YARDS, THUS THE 200 YARD RIDES.  Lefts and Rights, incredible, perfect glass, light winds, and no crowds!

The first paddle out took 6 minutes.  The 2nd was brutal, 18 minutes.  The first session was the long rides.  The 2nd was more rides but more dumpage, do to fatigue 🙂

Thursday,  overhead down south again, PROBABLY THE SAME SIZE AS WEDNESDAY MORNING FOR HALF OF THE DAY ! WSW to noonish then SW 4 to 10 mph winds,  glassy and mid-tide, high going low is the best time.

Friday, waist to shoulder high.  (Cape verses Satellite) Glassy WNW  to West to SW, 4 to 6 mph.

Sea Lice again...
Sea Lice again...

Still some Sea Lice out there, so prepare for those big mosquito bites ;( Plus there is still Moon Jelly fish laying on the beach.

Tropical Storm Maria is about 2600 miles SouthEast of us and ought to be 650 miles east and a little south of Miami on Monday.

Nate is in the Gulf, and could cause some issues if it heads Northeast.

Enjoy epic Thursday!

Forgive my backing down on the original size mentioned last night.

oldwaverider