Surf report, Friday afternoon surf forecast (2:30 Pm) for Cape Canaveral n Cocoa Beach (posted 03/18/11)


My addiction of big wave footage continues…Another XXL contender video, of Shane Dorian, a very familiar participant in the Billabong XXL awards of recent years.  This was a massive perhaps 45 to 50 foot  paddle in wave at Peahi on 3/15/11.  He almost made it out of the barrell 🙂

SURF REPORT TIME: Okay, now to local matters;  It looks like we have a wind swell coming in starting sometime Sunday evening,  with the most size on Monday (overhead chop) , but strong onshore winds.  Tuesday morning looks to be head high and glassy (as the wind forecasts stand right now) for a session down south (2nd light, Perkins, RC’s, etc.) and waist high plus at the Cape.  The winds could go offshore until late morning Tuesday, and as the size drops some overnight a foot or two, Wednesday appears to be a day with offshore winds thru lunchtime.

As Monday approaches, we will track the 48 hour window of the weather channel to give more updates on the potential offshore winds.

It doesn’t look to be a ground swell, but it may very well be some decent size and power.

Later,

oldwaverider

Surf report, Tuesday night surf forecast (8:30 Pm) for Cape Canaveral n Cocoa Beach (posted 03/15/11)


Cliff Hirsch and I surfed Newport Beach in 1979.  This is another Newport Beach, Ca. shot from my buddy Rob who lives there.
Cliff Hirsch and I surfed Newport Beach in 1979. This is another Newport Beach, Ca. shot from my buddy Rob who lives there.

Quick update.  I’m burning the candle at both ends so this won’t be the normal anal-retentive report 😉

5.2 feet at 10 seconds at the 120 buoy at 8:30 Pm (now) , up from 3.9 feet 8:30 last night.  So we should have some thigh to waist high plus waves depending on where you go.

Winds should be SW at 3 to 4 mph by 8 Am, high tide at around 5:20 Am, so anytime after 7:30 ought to be good.

Enjoy it while we have it.  Next few days should be onshore winds.

oldwaverider

Surfing Huge Jaws Maui (Pe’ahi) Christmas day 2009 , posted from Cape Canaveral (1/4/11), but not our surf report :(


You all already know me, I’m always scoping out huge wave videos, especially anything at Jaws/Peahi, Maui.

“One of the massive wipeouts, I understand was Greg long. He had just won the Eddie Aikau at Waimea. I read that he said this was one of the worst wipeouts of his life, but I don’t know how bad he was hurt. Didn’t look like much fun to me.   nevans97 post”

THIS NEXT ONE IS CALLED: JAWS MAUI 2010 PASSING THE TORCH , pretty killer music too!

Laird Hamilton passes the torch to the newer huge wave tow-in surfers, he’s over 45 years old, and still out there one more time!

2010 JAWS PEAHI EPIC GIANT SURF. FILMED 1/10/10. LAIRD HAMILTON, IAN WALSH, BILLY KEMPER. MUSIC BY GUERRILLA JAZZ!

I hope to get the Peahi tow in session on Nov. 10, 2010 hear too, but so far I have only found it at MSW.com, and it’s not for public embedding.

oldwaverider

Billabong XXL 2011 Midseason Highlight Clip (12/23/10) posted


Okay, now we’re caught up on the Billabong XXL Big Wave videos.

Check out the new entrant.  The boys from Ireland have a lot to show for the emerging monsters.  Between some of the breaks around LaHinch Beach around the NNW point of Ireland, they have had some mega 40 to 50 foot face waves in the last 12 to 18 months of La Nina surf season.

Also, check out Shipstern Bluff.   I have asked myself, why do those guys surf there, since the moment they hit that part of the wave were it seems like a big chasm or black hole in the ocean floor appears, and thus they have the most incredible wipeouts cause they’re not expecting a sudden free fall at the peak of the barrel of the wave.

Then it dawned on me;  that’s why they like it,  it’s like having a cinderblock laying at the bottom of a skatepark bowl, forcing them to “think on their feet” if you will.   So watch the different way these crazies choose to respond to the “black hole” part of the wave at Shipstern Bluff, Tasmania.

Also, “Cloudbreak” in Fiji, is a new entrant.  Another 40 foot face entry, and especially the paddle in wipeout in what looks like a 40 foot plus face.   I bet that one wins the wipeout of the year award.  Anyone that has the balls to keep on paddling for that one, then goes one step crazy further by grabbing the rail of the board in order to make the straight/angled drop,  they have my vote for the best and most ballzy calculated attempt and then wipeout !

Last,  Chile had a massive year, that 45 – 50 foot face in their freezing cold water gains the same respect as freezing Mavericks,  Prowlers and Oregon’s last 50 – 60 foot wave video shown on Seaweed not long ago.

Enjoy, and I hope ya don’t mind me posting these things.   I love watching huge waves.

Now that the rumor is out that Kelly Slater may start participating in some of this kind of surfing, I’m even more fired up.   Anyone that can terrorize the competition in the ASP regular surf tour, and then turn around the next week and paddle into a 30 – 40 foot face at the “Eddie”, is certainly one ballsy individual.

oldwaverider

2010 BILLABONG XXL GLOBAL BIG WAVE AWARDS HIGHLIGHTS


I finally found this video.  The biggest paddle in ever by Shawn Dollar.   The Mavericks paddle was estimated to be a 55 foot face wave.

These guys and girl are sick…

oldwaverider

2009 Billabong XXL Big Wave Awards Highlights


As most of my friends know, I’m fanatical about watching big wave surfing, awards, etc. This video is the 2009 Billabong XXL Awards highlights. I still want to post the 2010, especially since the 2011 hit the mid-year point.

It’s interesting to see how guys like Greg Long from California and Grant “Twiggy” Baker from S. Africa show up in all the finals. And Greg Long was the one who edged out Kelly Slater at the very last minute for the “Eddie” award. Kelly Slater would have won it twice (never done), and two back to back contests for the “Eddie”.

Anyhow, I hope ya’ll enjoy this video.

oldwaverider

Most intense wave ever ridden…still, Laird Hamilton, 2000




This is my favorite video of all time.  Every Teahupoo wave and video , and every Peahi, Chile, Ireland, Mavericks wave I have seen since this, still does not compare to Laird Hamilton’s famous 2000 ride.

It’s a great editorial that goes with it.  Enjoy!

oldwaverider

Hurricane Danielle big clean chop 8/28/10


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Hurricane Danielle putting up 8 to 11 foot faces
Hurricane Danielle putting up 8 to 11 foot faces

Hurricane Danielle provided a few fun days,  though we had to deal with some choppy conditions, that would be a thanks to Hurricane Earl sneaking up from behind keeping the onshore winds constant.   These pics were taken again by, yep you guessed it, Central Florida photographer Mike Melito from Lakeland.  Enjoy the pics and we’ll be uploading more from Hurricane Earl too!

oldwaverider

Older guy going left :)
Older guy going left 🙂
Nice Air Left
Nice Air Left
Chase from a closeout
Chase from a closeout
Clean overhead left wall
Clean overhead left wall
Late drop in
Late drop in
Big foamy left...
Big foamy left...
My spray on tan from the pool job.
My spray on tan from the pool job.

Photos from Hurricane Earl on 9/2/10


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Taken at Cocoa Beach Pier mid morning
Taken at Cocoa Beach Pier mid morning

These photos were taken mid morning Thursday of Hurricane Earl’s awesome swell.    Taken by Mike Melito, an old high school buddy from Lakeland.  And yeah, he also surfs.

Another from Thursday morn.   Yup, same photographer.
Another from Thursday morn. Yup, same photographer.
Probably the reason why he missed taking the one wave that I rode ...
Probably the reason why he missed taking the one wave that I rode ...
Don't know if he got a barrell out of this one or not.
Don't know if he got a barrell out of this one or not.
No comment
No comment
Yeah, a few lefts are coming.
Yeah, a few lefts are coming.

 

 

 

There's room for two, maybe.
There's room for two, maybe.
Clean right ...
Clean right ...
Taken by Gulfster.com, a photo at the pier also
Taken by Gulfster.com, a photo at the pier also

We hope to have some update photos if I can get Mike to send them to me 🙂