Monday, should have waist to chest high waves, maybe a few bigger sets down south, if the 2nd part of this swell comes rolling in late morning. It should jack the size up a foot bigger on the face than we have had the last few days. More details about Monday morning winds below;
The Video; an incredible late drop in on a 50 foot face at Jaws by Aaron Gold, maybe not quite as perfect as Mark Healey’s Ride of the Year entry, but still incredibly impressive, and , a Nasty Wipeout !
A little more of this swell is coming in late morning Monday, probably after high tide. Winds are South early until 10 or 11ish. It could very well blow SSW in the morning, as the light South winds are to be in the 6 to 8 mph range. Why could it blow SSW? The short of it, land absorbs the sun’s heat much more than the ocean, and overnight, the land cools very quickly and can blow offshore breezes when the prevailing winds are light, and can do so, until the sun starts to warm the land up again in the morning. That’s why these type of offshore winds can happen, but don’t last much longer than an hour or two after first light.
Johnson Avenue Surfers 