How the Waves were Tuesday morning (7/19 week ago :), Massive Fiji swell Video is Incredible with clip of Kelly Slater, and Surf Report Thursday afternoon (at 5:30 Pm) and Surf Forecast for Cape Canaveral n Cocoa Beach (posted July 28, 2011)


EPIC CLODBREAK JULY 2011 from IronFistMedia on Vimeo.

Okay, my Bad !

Been swamped with stuff, yeah no excuse 🙂    But if you read my forecast in my very last post before this one,  I threw down my call for Tuesday morning,  7/19.    The wind swell we had,  was providing us with potential NNW winds for Tuesday morning and it did for a few hours actually.

I surfed behind Holiday Inn cause it had to be a North wind break (anything from 4rth St North to the pier for this swell cause the Cape itself was kinda blocked by this swell).  It was stomach to chest high when I paddled out at 7 Am, only 2 guys out, and it was ripping lefts and rights.   The lefts were instant barrels cause me, a normal foot had to do rail grabber takeoffs on every one,  and you pretty much got coverage on some waves if you kept at it.   The rights were fast takeoffs, but gave you more time, and for the long boarders 100 yard plus rides.  By 7:45 some short boarders came out, and we all tore it up together, giving each other waves, and we shared a few tandems with every one coming out happy.

By 8:30 it had some bigger sets, and I caught my only shoulder high wave, a right, shoulder high almost all the way in, and took it to the sand.  Awesome session……………………………………….

Epic Day, all I can say!   My buddy Rob from Newport Beach met me there and he was going nuts surfing great Florida waves.  (he’s the guy in the picture in my very last post, surfing his Newport Beach break 🙂

Okay, as far as surf headed our way.  Really nothing.  Like Ross at cflsurf.com says maybe some knee high action, I looked at Hightowers today mid-morning and it was actually thigh to maybe waist and was ridable but I didn’t have my board.  2 guys out way North on the break but it was onshore not much of a swell so I wasn’t too upset.

The massive 50 year storm that hit the Tasmanian Sea, Australia and which made it to Fiji that motivated our own Kelly Slater to skip the ASP tour event in J-Bay so he could catch the most incredible waves at Cloudbreak and Restaurants, Fiji is shown in this incredible video posted on Vimeo by Magicseaweed.com and right here where you know I love to collect all the huge wave videos that I can find 🙂

Enjoy this epic surf with so many of the great big wave surfers including Jamie Sterling, Mark Healey, Kohl Christansen, Greg Long who won the last Eddie contest from Kelly in the last minute bumping Kelly Slater from being the first person to win the Eddie two times in a row.  (the Eddie contest is the Waimea Bay contest that must be held in 40 foot face waves in order to take place in memory of Eddie Aikau)

Enjoy the video don’t forget to click the 4 little arrows right of the HD letters in the video for full screen view, and we’ll keep the watch for a swell.   It’s almost cane time.

oldwaverider

Surf Report Friday afternoon and Surf Forecast (at 2:00 Pm) for Cape Canaveral n Cocoa Beach (posted July 15, 2011), and Massive Swell update for Tasmania, Fiji, etc., Kelly Slater takes a detour to Fiji


Fijian Fire & Brimstone from MSW on Vimeo.

Massive and perfect swell to hit Fiji, (watch it full screen by clicking on the 4 little white arrows) the one I mentioned the other day that hit 49 feet at 17 seconds on the MagicSeaweed.com surf report. This one minute video shows a few awesome waves both face size and barrel, but first our local Swell coming in for Sunday, July 17th at our own East Coast of Brevard County, Florida.

Yeah, another swell rolling in from the NE ? what ? , in the summer, yup!

Okay, it is a wind swell as opposed to a ground swell, its only 3 to 4 foot wind swell but it could be fun and clean (light onshore winds Sunday morning and up till noonish), and Monday morning could be stomach to chest high and glassy based on data I have now . Don’t expect long lines cause it is a wind swell, and all this could be totally different data by Saturday, but……….it is summer so God is good to us. Monday could be stomach to chest high and glassy, so when Saturday night rolls around I will have more reliable wind direction data, which is always gonna be sketchy, but at least 50 % reliable anyhow 🙂   By the way,  Saturday could have something hitting the beaches for us also, but I’m only excited about Sunday and Monday.

Recap, Sunday morning and day, waist to chest high and semi-clean 5 to 8 mph East to ENE winds. Monday, waist to chest high and light offshore winds until maybe mid-morning. Saturday night I will have more reliable wind data for Monday morning. Plus, Saturday night I will give you wind data for Sunday morning.

Kelly Slater taking a detour from the J-Bay event on the ASP tour, to catch the perfect and massive swell to hit Fiji, compliments of Magicseaweed.com, and photographer © Stu Gibson - 2011
Kelly Slater taking a detour from the J-Bay event on the ASP tour, to catch the perfect and massive swell to hit Fiji, compliments of Magicseaweed.com, and photographer © Stu Gibson - 2011

The Video above is from Cloudbreak, Fiji.  Kelly Slater skipped the ASP tour event at J-Bay to make this massive and perfect swell that hit Fiji.  Kelly in the picture below the video from Magicseaweed.com.

We’ll keep ya posted the next few days to see how the wind swell pans out.

Later,

oldwaverider

July 4rth weekend, slightly possible waves ;) Huge Mexico Escondido 30 to 50 ft. face Waves and Surf report Wednesday night and surf forecast (9:00 Pm) for Cape Canaveral n Cocoa Beach (posted 06/29/11)


On Location Puerto Escondido#2 from IronFistMedia on Vimeo.

My lust for huge wave videos continues, (Click the 4 little arrows just right of the HD letters on the video to see this full screen, its awesome) but first, our local update……We still have a small swell approaching what seems to be Thursday night after midnight, on our beaches Friday morning.  Now, will the offshore winds Thursday and Thursday night keep the small swell from hitting the actual beaches,  that is the question.
Thursday morning, there may be some fun knee high waves at the Cape here.  High tide at 7:20 am approx., so anytime after that if you have a long board.
Friday morning, we could have some thigh high waves here, if………..the offshore winds don’t keep it offshore.   The reason why I believe we could get something, is the moving swell period chart comes sweeping in a few hours before daybreak with a 9 second period and a fetch that looks to be 500 miles or so.
Best scenario, thigh high and glassy.  Worst, glassy shorebreak and a nice day to surf fish 🙂
Saturday the period drops one notch, but also a chance of something rideable then.
I’m trying to be optimistic and realistic.   50/50 chance for Friday morning fun waves.
The video, is a huge swell that hit Puerto Escondido Mexico with some 30 to 50 foot faces, and a crowd of the big waves surfers there.
Happy July 4rth weekend!

oldwaverider

How the Waves were today (Saturday afternoon) also The 10th Annual Waterman’s Challenge, June 11-12, 2011 in Cocoa Beach plus Surf report and surf forecast for Sunday morning for Cape Canaveral n Cocoa Beach (posted 06/11/11 at 7:30 PM)


Quiksilver Ceremonial Punta de Lobos 2011 from VIA DE ESCAPE on Vimeo.

Today (Saturday around 12:00 PM) at Lori Wilson Park, they had a contest and the waves were nice even with the fairly strong onshore winds.  Size was solid waist to stomach high with maybe some bigger sets.  Fairly long workable shoulders for longboarders and some nice sections for shortboarders.  Friday nite in Satellite Beach they were waist to stomach high with high onshore winds but really good form around 5:30 Pm for longboard, marginal rides for short board.

Quiksilver Ceremonial Punta de Lobos 2011contest, from magicseaweed.com, the first contest on the big wave tour event.
Quiksilver Ceremonial Punta de Lobos 2011contest, from magicseaweed.com, the first contest on the big wave tour event.

Sunday morning, it should be solid waist high plus in Cocoa Beach and further south.  At 6 Pm Saturday night it was around 4 feet at 8 seconds at the 120 mile buoy, and between 11 and 12 today it climbed up to 7.5 feet at 8 seconds, so at least its still a solid wind swell.   Oh yeah,  the winds should be NW at first light and turning NNW for an hour or so and N to NE sometime between 9 and 10 Am.

Yeah,  predicting the winds can be iffy,  but as I looked at the weather.com hourly winds for Cape Canaveral, Cocoa Beach and Satellite Beach, for the last 36 hours, it’s been consistently showing those wind models, so I’ll give it a 70% chance of holding true.  If I’m wrong, shoot me !   🙂

Oh,  high tide is around 5 Am Sunday morn, and as ya’ll know High going low is always better than low going high.  So get out by 6:30 to 7:30 and ya got perfect tides and good winds.

By the way,  the best breaks to surf for NNW winds are anything North of Minuteman Causeway.   That’s because direct North winds are from 2 to 6 degrees offshore for streets North of Minuteman, and when you get South of minuteman like the streets, 8th, 16th, O Club, Perkins Hightowers, those are all South wind breaks because Minuteman at Coconuts forms a bay if you will that curves out to the left or the right as you look at the ocean.  (sorry, it’s an anal-retentive thing I did by plotting Google map with Vectors and all to determine the exact angle each break faces whether it be South or North;)

I forgot, ya’ll know about my obsession with big wave surfing events, the video here is Chile,  Brazil’s Marcos Monteiro took top honours in the season’s first Big Wave World Tour event at the Quiksilver Ceremonial Punta De Lobos Big Wave Invitational in 30ft plus surf.  Many of the big name big wave surfers were there.  The list of the full cast of the 2011 Quiksilver Ceremonial were: Jamie Sterling, Kohl Christensen, Grant Washburn, Carlos Burle, Marcos Monteiro, Peter Mel, Ben Wilkerson, Cristian Merello, Greg Long (won the Eddie against Kelly Slater), Gabriel Villaran, Frank Solomon, Nic Lamb, Joao De Macedo, Eric Rebiere, Sebastian De Romana, Rusty Long, Felipe Cesarano, Andres Flores, Ramon Navarro, Diego Medina, Fernando Zegers, Reinaldo “Chacha” Ibarra, Matias Lopez, and Leon Vicuna.

Anyhow, have a great sesh Sunday, and stop by the The 10th Annual Waterman’s Challenge, June 11-12, 2011 contest at Lori Wilson or actually International Palms Resort to show support which starts at 9:00 Am I believe Sunday morning for day two.

Later,

oldwaverider

Surf report, Friday afternoon surf forecast (2:30 Pm) for Cape Canaveral n Cocoa Beach (posted 03/18/11)


My addiction of big wave footage continues…Another XXL contender video, of Shane Dorian, a very familiar participant in the Billabong XXL awards of recent years.  This was a massive perhaps 45 to 50 foot  paddle in wave at Peahi on 3/15/11.  He almost made it out of the barrell 🙂

SURF REPORT TIME: Okay, now to local matters;  It looks like we have a wind swell coming in starting sometime Sunday evening,  with the most size on Monday (overhead chop) , but strong onshore winds.  Tuesday morning looks to be head high and glassy (as the wind forecasts stand right now) for a session down south (2nd light, Perkins, RC’s, etc.) and waist high plus at the Cape.  The winds could go offshore until late morning Tuesday, and as the size drops some overnight a foot or two, Wednesday appears to be a day with offshore winds thru lunchtime.

As Monday approaches, we will track the 48 hour window of the weather channel to give more updates on the potential offshore winds.

It doesn’t look to be a ground swell, but it may very well be some decent size and power.

Later,

oldwaverider

The biggest wave ever surfed and caught on film this day, January 28, 1998, by surfer Ken Bradshaw.


The biggest wave ever ridden captured on film, by Ken Bradshaw, January 28, 1998.  Estimated 85 foot face wave.

oldwaverider

Billabong XXL 2011 Midseason Highlight Clip (12/23/10) posted


Okay, now we’re caught up on the Billabong XXL Big Wave videos.

Check out the new entrant.  The boys from Ireland have a lot to show for the emerging monsters.  Between some of the breaks around LaHinch Beach around the NNW point of Ireland, they have had some mega 40 to 50 foot face waves in the last 12 to 18 months of La Nina surf season.

Also, check out Shipstern Bluff.   I have asked myself, why do those guys surf there, since the moment they hit that part of the wave were it seems like a big chasm or black hole in the ocean floor appears, and thus they have the most incredible wipeouts cause they’re not expecting a sudden free fall at the peak of the barrel of the wave.

Then it dawned on me;  that’s why they like it,  it’s like having a cinderblock laying at the bottom of a skatepark bowl, forcing them to “think on their feet” if you will.   So watch the different way these crazies choose to respond to the “black hole” part of the wave at Shipstern Bluff, Tasmania.

Also, “Cloudbreak” in Fiji, is a new entrant.  Another 40 foot face entry, and especially the paddle in wipeout in what looks like a 40 foot plus face.   I bet that one wins the wipeout of the year award.  Anyone that has the balls to keep on paddling for that one, then goes one step crazy further by grabbing the rail of the board in order to make the straight/angled drop,  they have my vote for the best and most ballzy calculated attempt and then wipeout !

Last,  Chile had a massive year, that 45 – 50 foot face in their freezing cold water gains the same respect as freezing Mavericks,  Prowlers and Oregon’s last 50 – 60 foot wave video shown on Seaweed not long ago.

Enjoy, and I hope ya don’t mind me posting these things.   I love watching huge waves.

Now that the rumor is out that Kelly Slater may start participating in some of this kind of surfing, I’m even more fired up.   Anyone that can terrorize the competition in the ASP regular surf tour, and then turn around the next week and paddle into a 30 – 40 foot face at the “Eddie”, is certainly one ballsy individual.

oldwaverider