Hurricane Irene, Brevard County, photographer at Gulfster.com
Tropical Storm Katia on the way…….But I had to show a few more of the awesome Friday, Hurricane Irene pictures from Gulfster.com . Many of the pictures on their site are Satellite Beach, The Pier, and another spot I believe.
Tropical Storm Katia appears to be sending us waves on late Sunday or Monday, as it stands now, onshore winds bringing the storm in, in the 3 to 4 foot range. By Sunday, it looks to be about 1500 miles from us, as a Cat 2 or 3 Hurricane.
Tropical Storm Katia, headed straight our way, 60 mph winds, 20 mph. Possible hurricane by Wednesday some time. Sunday could place it about 1500 miles WSW of us. Compliments of Stormpulse.com
With the sole intention of being an alarmist, keep in your mind, preparation for a direct hit between us and Jacksonville. No one is saying this, just my thoughts. Consider looking at your Boy Scout list of Hurricane preparation items. Okay, here endeth the alarmist 😉 …Not! Katrina was 6 years ago in 2005. It’s like they’re related 🙂
Image 2 here of Hurricane Irene, Brevard County, photographer at Gulfster.com
We should have some more news on this puppy (Katia) by Wednesday night, or Thursday.
I’m waiting on some pics for Saturday, in the chest high range from Irene, by Slater Lane.
Oh, in case you didn’t hear it or see it in today’s Florida Today. Kelly Slater won the Tahiti Pro in huge waves meeting in the finals against Owen Wright.
Check out the killer slideshow at Magicseaweed.com . He was ranked 6th, after he skipped the tour in J-Bay (looked like 6 foot waves for that contest), and he caught the once in a lifetime swell in Fiji. 30 to 40 foot , tow in and paddle in. The same storm that they called the 50 year storm hitting Tasmania first, then Australia (thus the 50 year storm name) and on to Fiji and other places. That big wave surf, very similar to Teahupoo except longer rides than Teahupoo.
Don’t forget about the26th Annual NKF Surf Festival – Labor Day Weekend – Cocoa Beach – September 1-5, 2011. Read more about the Surf Festival here.
Later,
oldwaverider
Check out the board length to face size (yeah a little angled 🙂 in Image 3 here of Hurricane Irene, Brevard County, photographer at Gulfster.com Image 4, Hurricane Irene, Brevard County, photographer at Gulfster.comImage 5, Hurricane Irene, Brevard County, photographer at Gulfster.comImage 6, Hurricane Irene, Brevard County, photographer at Gulfster.comImage 7, Hurricane Irene, Brevard County, photographer at Gulfster.com
Today and last night, How the Waves were…And, the 4 picture sequence (not 5) I have here is from the awesome Photographers of Gulfster.com .
An early Satellite Beach overhead wave ;), Image 1 of 5 in a very large sequence set of photos. I have 4 more of this sequence shot by the awesome photographers of Gulfster.com
Saturday morning update. (This original post done Friday nite) The buoys just cleared our really fast, the 20 mile just dropped from 11 feet to 8, so we may only see waist high at the Cape and Chest high down south. I’ll do a visual by 6:30 AM. Maybe it held a little more, we’ll see. Below is Friday nites post…
The Jetty , Harbor break at 7 Pm to 8 Pm Thursday night when I watched it with 2 guys out, 12 to 15 foot faces, NNW winds almost perfect glass, but not quite, with nothing smaller on the set waves. But there was definitely a few larger rogue waves. I watched a number of 15 foot faces based on seeing the rider, out 400 yards, but quite visible.
Image 2 of a many image sequence, but just 5 here for now, from I believe Satellite Beach. By Gulfster.com
Those that were not there, and those not obsessed about watching the size of waves, might say otherwise. However myself another surfer, and one of the two guys that came in confirmed the size 🙂
Image 3 of a sequence. Gulfster.com photographer
Today, I surfed by the Jetty. Solid 8 to 10 foot faces 7 to 8:30 Am with some bigger rogue sets. Perfect glass with NW winds. Yesterdays post covered what we should hope to see. When the size dropped and I was tired, we went to Officers Club and it was solid 10 to 12 foot faces (double overhead on the sets) with maybe an larger set everyone once in a while. The winds were NW to WNW, and were totally blinding. At the Jetty, no issues with spray in the eyes.
Saturday, we should see chest high sets in the Cape, and shoulder high down by Satellite. West winds in the 12 to 18 mph range. Should be really fun and probably epic.
Sunday, I don’t see much, but perhaps some waist high waves will linger.
Image 4 of a 4 image sequence. Gulfster.com photographer
We have a TD 10 headed our way from Africa that may already be showing up on the swell models.
Quick Update at 8:45 PM Thursday night; Most will assume that I am on, or was on some form of a hallucinagenic, and I’m okay with that 🙂 , however, I just got to watch 45 minutes of surf shortly before dark, and I saw one individual catch 4 rides, the 1stwitch was 6 solid feet over his head, when he made his bottom turn, and he still had 2 or 3 further to the bottom, not of the typical slopey Florida wave. The 2nd epic wave out of his 4 that we watched, which was also glassy, was he dropped in, on the same but maybe an inch taller wave 😉 and after a rentry, slipped right into a barrel, standup, but only have of the wave covered him to the waist, but he did disappear, pulled out, and preceded to get 3 or 4 rentry that required at least 30 yards coverage for each top to bottom, it was like in slow motion. We estimated that it was about 200 yards, (2 football fields, based on the fact that it was around 10 seconds ride, but also, since it was about 400 yards out paddle to get out, and he made it most of the way in except for the inside section…which by the way, his wave kept on going when he kicked out. It was really breathtaking for Florida ( I could care less how corney it sounds, but I love guessing numbers, stats, financial data and trends, finding changes in treands, plus distance when I run 3 to 4 times a week, so am I anal , you make the call, and this site to see was awesome , especially for Northern Brevard County. The original post from today continues below starting with the Teahupoo video which is breathtaking again…a little poetic sounding, but my bad 😉 Last comment, I believe my numbers for 6:30 – 7 AM session made in this afternoons post earlier today at 1 PM, is still accurate, so take it or leave it 🙂
Friday morning surf report in a minute…I had to drop this video of Teahupoo (cho-pooh), from The Billabong Pro in Tahiti. It is absolutely incredible taken from a helicopter.
Friday morning, On the high side, with the models for Satellite Beach at daybreak, 10.5 feet at 13 seconds, in Satellite Beach we could see 15 foot plus faces. The winds are still looking 25 to 30 mph NW until noon and then WNW. There will be gusts over 35 mph, but that’s still less than TD Hanna in “09”. But by then the size has dropped 4 feet in face size.
Friday morning, Our models show 6 feet at 15 seconds climbing to 8 feet at 11 seconds at 9 AM At the Cape and Cocoa Beach, the Cape should see 10 to 12 foot faces with a rogue set every now and then, glassy, lots of spray with 25 to 30 mph NW winds, and gusts a little higher. The lefts should be incredible. High tide is 5:45, which is the best condition we could ask for, high going low.The size will probably kick up from daybreak to 9 AM a couple feet, and then start dropping fast by noon, but not to fast 🙂 By noon, we’ll probably have 8 to 10 foot faces and then lose a foot every couple hours.
The rain should be pretty significant in the morning so be ready for that, and also, for you old guy surfers, 2 guys, both 49 years old, very competent surfers drowned in the surf during Hurricane Florence in Sept of 2006. In fact the waves that day were 6 to 10 foot overhead, and this barrell taken shows that at Satellite Beach were this photo, this one taken just before one of the guys Rob drowned. He was a 15 or 16 year old surfers father.
Watch the Sea Lice stings “sea lice” which are actually the larvae of Thimble jellyfish. And also watch the big big Moon Jellyfish. I walked the beach at 8 this morning, and I saw one that was about a foot in diameter. I believe they are “Moon Jellyfish” They are clear, round, and inch or more thick, with 4 purple membranes if you will in the center. I will try to update later today with a photo of these large Moon Jellyfish.
South of Minuteman, with those winds, should produce slight offshore to sideshore winds.
North of Minuteman, we take a size hit but have the glass.
Saturday, shoulder to head high , 20 mph west winds and epic, anywhere.
Sunday mid-morning photo in Satellite Beach, August 7 2011. Taken by a friend, Mike Melito
The last day of Emily was Sunday (4 great days, nothing huge but a few head high sets on the drop), and it was a great day in Satellite at RC’s and Hightowers ! I surfed the morning which was stomach high and perfect glass, but it kicked up to chest high as the tide brought in more water.
If you surfed Emily in Cocoa Beach or the Cape, you probably missed the best size because of the angle of the swell. Also, when the winds were mostly SSW, the only place to surf that is South of Minuteman Causeway, and for the size south of the Streets from 2nd light or maybe O Club and South. Great surf, 4 days of it!
This is the official Chasing Monsters trailer video. The link to the 2010 Pico Alto contest is below at the Chasing Monsters website. As shown today on Magicseaweed.comthe Pico Alto in Peru is on. Quote “the world’s top big wave crazies will compete at the Billabong Pico Alto 2011– Copa Burn”. If you want to see last year’s video on the Pico Alto 2010, check out the video at the ChasingMonsters.com website, and as of today it is the 4rth video to scroll down to.
Waves coming, maybe ! Upcoming low pressure system swell headed our way! The models show that it hits Wednesday and keeps rolling for 3 plus days. Don’t know when we will half offshore winds, nor am I 100% sure the swell will hit, but the models show a nice SE swell in the 3 to 4 foot range with a high period of 11 or 12 seconds, so it’s definitely ground swell.
Friday morning, August 12 2011, 3 Tropical Disturbances being tracked from Africa, headed our way, 2 of which have a 40% chance of becoming a Hurricane within 48 hours, compliments of Stormpulse.com
FRIDAY MORNING UPDATE OF YESTERDAYS POST ON TROPICAL DISTURBANCES! We have 2 each 40% Trop. Disturbances and one 20% that have a chance of becoming a Cyclone (Hurricane, yeah I know you know 🙂 , all three came from our normal storm birthing ground, that of the Cape Verde Islands off the coast of Africa. The image is compliments of Stormpulse.com my favorite hurricane tracker site.
We’ll keep ya posted.
NOTE: JOHNSON AVENUE SURFERS will be moving to a new server in the next month and the URL will be johnsonavenuesurfers.com instead of j-avenue-surfers.com (we were gonna keep it low key, but we wanna give it more exposure and reach)
Been swamped with stuff, yeah no excuse 🙂 But if you read my forecast in my very last post before this one, I threw down my call for Tuesday morning, 7/19. The wind swell we had, was providing us with potential NNW winds for Tuesday morning and it did for a few hours actually.
I surfed behind Holiday Inn cause it had to be a North wind break (anything from 4rth St North to the pier for this swell cause the Cape itself was kinda blocked by this swell). It was stomach to chest high when I paddled out at 7 Am, only 2 guys out, and it was ripping lefts and rights. The lefts were instant barrels cause me, a normal foot had to do rail grabber takeoffs on every one, and you pretty much got coverage on some waves if you kept at it. The rights were fast takeoffs, but gave you more time, and for the long boarders 100 yard plus rides. By 7:45 some short boarders came out, and we all tore it up together, giving each other waves, and we shared a few tandems with every one coming out happy.
By 8:30 it had some bigger sets, and I caught my only shoulder high wave, a right, shoulder high almost all the way in, and took it to the sand. Awesome session……………………………………….
Epic Day, all I can say! My buddy Rob from Newport Beach met me there and he was going nuts surfing great Florida waves. (he’s the guy in the picture in my very last post, surfing his Newport Beach break 🙂
Okay, as far as surf headed our way. Really nothing. Like Ross at cflsurf.com says maybe some knee high action, I looked at Hightowers today mid-morning and it was actually thigh to maybe waist and was ridable but I didn’t have my board. 2 guys out way North on the break but it was onshore not much of a swell so I wasn’t too upset.
The massive 50 year storm that hit the Tasmanian Sea, Australia and which made it to Fiji that motivated our own Kelly Slater to skip the ASP tour event in J-Bay so he could catch the most incredible waves at Cloudbreak and Restaurants, Fiji is shown in this incredible video posted on Vimeo by Magicseaweed.com and right here where you know I love to collect all the huge wave videos that I can find 🙂
Enjoy this epic surf with so many of the great big wave surfers including Jamie Sterling, Mark Healey, Kohl Christansen, Greg Long who won the last Eddie contest from Kelly in the last minute bumping Kelly Slater from being the first person to win the Eddie two times in a row. (the Eddie contest is the Waimea Bay contest that must be held in 40 foot face waves in order to take place in memory of Eddie Aikau)
Enjoy the video don’t forget to click the 4 little arrows right of the HD letters in the video for full screen view, and we’ll keep the watch for a swell. It’s almost cane time.
My buddy Rob surfing Newport Beach, Ca. pier on a nice left in July of 2009
Awesome waves Sunday morning for those who were in the water at a North wind break by 6:30 or 7 Am.It was waist to chest high, (started out waist) and by 7:30 Am some chest high glassy waves peeling left and right were coming in, and only 3 of us out at Lori Wilson until 8 Am. But by 8, the winds switched from NNW to NE and there was still some fun sets, they started closing out and the 100 yard rides came to an end.
Tuesday morning (7/19), it should be waist to chest high and the only place to surf is a North wind break. Meaning 4rth Street North to CCB Pier and no further North if you want the size. The winds will be NNW from 3 to 6 mph until 10 Am. Yeah, winds can be iffy, but the weather channel hour by hour report shows 4 am the winds turn from N to NNW and stay that way till sometime between 9 and 11 am.
The swell is 3 foot at 7 seconds, and the swell on Sunday had power and nice workable walls so I’m optimistic that Tuesday morning will be a lot of fun. The swell drops quick thru the day cause it is just a wind swell that also had some breeze from the TD disturbance down by Bahamas/Cuba.
Imagine this wave for Sunday morning 😉 My buddy Rob surfing Costa Rica in June of 2008, at Ollies.
Our wind swell hit the 120 buoy around 11 Am this morning and has jumped up to 5.5 feet at 8 seconds from 3.3 feet at 7.
As long as the ESE winds prevail to bring the swell on in, I believe we will have some stomach to maybe chest high waves down south. (maybe Lori Wilson, but best bet would be 2nd light and south) This swell came at a fairly steep angle from the NE, though the winds have switched around to the ESE, I would rather take my chances down south.
The winds are showing showing straight North from daybreak till 9 or 10 and then NE, so its a tough call. 2nd light and south with North winds would be onshore winds, but 4 to 7 degrees offshore at Lori Wilson to 4rth Street North. But there is a chance the winds could go NNW or even NW, and since the winds are only 3 to 5 mph, it may not really matter.
Anyhow, Sunday and Monday morning both look to be stomach to chest high, Sunday with North winds until 10, and then onshore, and Monday is showing ENE to NE winds around 6 to 8 mph at daybreak so Sunday looks like the best day.
Whatever, at least we should have some waves to paddle out to and it is summer so count your blessings 🙂
If the winds do something funky and don’t bring the swell in, then go borrow a SUP 🙂
Massive and perfect swell to hit Fiji, (watch it full screen by clicking on the 4 little white arrows) the one I mentioned the other day that hit 49 feet at 17 seconds on the MagicSeaweed.com surf report. This one minute video shows a few awesome waves both face size and barrel, but first our local Swell coming in for Sunday, July 17th at our own East Coast of Brevard County, Florida.
Yeah, another swell rolling in from the NE ? what ? , in the summer, yup!
Okay, it is a wind swell as opposed to a ground swell, its only 3 to 4 foot wind swell but it could be fun and clean (light onshore winds Sunday morning and up till noonish), and Monday morning could be stomach to chest high and glassy based on data I have now . Don’t expect long lines cause it is a wind swell, and all this could be totally different data by Saturday, but……….it is summer so God is good to us. Monday could be stomach to chest high and glassy, so when Saturday night rolls around I will have more reliable wind direction data, which is always gonna be sketchy, but at least 50 % reliable anyhow 🙂 By the way, Saturday could have something hitting the beaches for us also, but I’m only excited about Sunday and Monday.
Recap, Sunday morning and day, waist to chest high and semi-clean 5 to 8 mph East to ENE winds. Monday, waist to chest high and light offshore winds until maybe mid-morning. Saturday night I will have more reliable wind data for Monday morning. Plus, Saturday night I will give you wind data for Sunday morning.
The Video above is from Cloudbreak, Fiji.Kelly Slater skipped the ASP tour event at J-Bay to make this massive and perfect swell that hit Fiji. Kelly in the picture below the video from Magicseaweed.com.
We’ll keep ya posted the next few days to see how the wind swell pans out.
My buddy Rob from Newport Beach surfing his home break. This is a summer September 2009 pic.
Up thru today, there has been some nice glassy knee high plus waves at Lori Wilson Park.
But, it looks like for Wednesday and 6 days out, there may be nill. We’ve had a great summer for waves so far (because we’ve had waves 🙂 so I do believe that there will be more surprise swells, be they local wind, ground swell or whatever, and just like last summer, all before the hurricane season really hits.
So for now, here’s a pic of my buddy Rob that lives in Newport Beach, Ca.
Rob and I met and surfed at Hangers when he was in town visiting family.
This photo is Rob surfing Newport Beach in September of 2009.
When some more videos come in from the massive 49 foot 17 second period swell that hit Tasmania, etc. I’ll post the video.
The storm hammered Australia (creating the 50 year storm at Bells Beach , Australia) and it may be sending Kelly Slater to Fiji to surf the massive waves and take him out of the J-Bay event that is scheduled for the regular ASP world tour.
Anyhow, stay stoked, read a surf mag, go to church or fix the dings on your board and change the wax maybe 🙂
49 foot waves on the swell chart coming to Tasmania, compliments of magicseaweed.com. Check out the chart below for Cocoa Beach for Friday and Saturday, pretty humorous 🙂
Today was beautiful glassy waves for an hour or two near the Port, some shoulder high drops with waist to chest high sets. A few workable walls, lots of power, but unfortunately most were closeouts. I decided to surf the Cape because of the morning NNW winds which are crosswinds for down South. But I heard reports that down South wasn’t blocked out totally by the Bahamas and actually had some overhead drops.
Friday, it should drop some in size even though it hit 7 feet at 9 seconds at the 120 buoy around 8:30 Pm tonight, but the reason I say this is the winds at the 120 are blowing direct out of the South at over 10 knots. Plus, we should have some SSW winds for a few hours tonight at 10 mph which could also knock it down some. But…………………
I still think Friday we should have some chest high waves down South with direct South winds in the 8 to 10 mph range, and by 8 or 9 Am they are supposed to switch to SSW in the 10 to 12 mph range until mid to late morning for both Satellite and Cocoa Beach. Saturday we may have some thigh high leftovers with possible offshore winds.
The Cape being a North wind break would have total sideshore winds so it doesn’t make sense to surf anywhere North of Minuteman Causeway.
Get excited, it should be a fun morning, and hopefully the 30 to 40 % chance of Thundershowers will wait until 11 or 12 like weather.com says it will 😉
Cocoa Beach swell charts, coming in at 7% of the swell approaching Tasmania. I'll take it for the summer. But man, we have some great video coming in a few weeks when this one hits, Tasmania, Fiji and some other spots.
Okay, the crazy first screenshot image above is a massive swell getting ready to hit Tasmania, the chart is showing 49 feet at 17 seconds, insane. As this swell moves on, it is supposed to hit Fiji with greater intensity than the 40 to 50 foot swell that hit Fiji last year, so when the video come out, my addiction for big wave videos will have those ready for you from YouTube, Vimeo and/or Magicseaweed.com
Johnson Avenue Surfers 