Beautiful waves this morning at O-Club!
About a foot or so bigger than yesterday (surfed O-club Tuesday also), for me (6’3″ tall) on the bigger sets, the drop was shoulder-high and maybe a few head high drops, and then the shoulders were waist to chest high and really glassy.
Definitely some close-outs, but many you could see and let em on by. I got out 2 hours after high tide, heading toward low, so it was really nice and plenty of power. Some nice barrels (I got none, but they were there). Many waves were unmakeable on a long board and even short board, but if you did a rail-grabber, you could make a bunch of em. I saw some awesome short board rides out there!
Looks like Thursday morning may be some decent size still, but as it looks now, some stiff offshore winds.
Then late Thursday, looks like the winds whip around from the NE bringing in that big Nor’easter, with strong onshore waves all day Friday Christmas Eve, and then Saturday morning sometime, it looks to turn offshore from the NW, and throughout the day, the wind looks to be swinging around to the SW, and picking up to the 10 mph plus range.
So, Christmas Eve, if you want to have a soulful evening, take a visit to Christ Lutheran Church for our 7:00 PM Candlelight Service. Then go home, and have an Egg Nog with a splash of quality Brandy, wrap your kids presents (if you have any :), I don’t, and then catch a mid-morning surf session Christmas Day, after you do the present thing and the breakfast thing.