Archive for the ‘Big Wave Video & Photo Locations’ Category


Remember Bethany Hamilton, the one arm Gutsy Surf Warrior?  She’s a new Mom this year, and she hit her dream of surfing 40-50 foot (faces) Jaws, Peahi. The video has privacy settings, so you’ll have to click Bethany’s name, just under the video message below, so you can watch it on Vimeo.

 the Surf big and glassy for Thursday morning?  Maybe.  The winds are still NNE,  so I believe we will have some NNW winds before 9 am, turning North pretty strong Thursday morning. Down south may not be so hot, since that’s side shore to almost offshore winds.  But up North here that is offshore.  Should be head high and glassy to semi-glassy at the Pier with some texture on it, due to strong offshore NNW winds.  Down south should be a lot bigger, but not so hot on wind.  It’s high tide early, like 5:40 am in Satellite, or a little earlier at the Pier.  So it maybe be smokin early, or with the heavy sand deposits on the bottom, it could have problems.  Let’s hope the heavy sand bottom has cleared out some !  🙂

Friday looks big and just barely glassy, as it now looks to be SSW, but pretty light, like 6-8 mph light.  If the period of the swell was a little more consistent, I be saying almost double overhead waves.  But with the fetch a little inconsistent, I believe it will be 2-4 foot overhead on the bigger sets down south, and 1-2 overhead at the Pier on the bigger sets.

Saturday will still be some head high size, but the winds are iffy right now.

Bethany Hamilton Tows Jaws from STAB on Vimeo.

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I can’t believe I missed posting this, the Billabong XXL Award Nominees from 2015 🙂  Plus, Shane Dorian, Ride of the Year Video!

 


Maya Gabeira actually went unconscious in the waters of Nazare, back in 2012 or 13.  Carlos Burle rescued her.  She snapped an ankle, and passed out a couple times.  In this video, she faces her fears head on, by getting back in the water in Nazare.  After having two hernias in her back repaired also.  See the video below:

Monday morning should be chest high glass at the Cocoa Beach Pier.  I don’t know how this swell is breaking, as Johnson Avenue is not, even though it has size.  We got a lot of sand dumped here, and even in Hightowers which has been breaking really poorly on a number of swells, including last week.  But hopefully, Monday am at the Pier will be fun 🙂


TS Kate swell update at 9:09 PM Monday nights Tuesday AM swell report.  The winds near shore just did the big drop from 15 mph SSE to 8 mph SSE,  which is huge, at letting us know that 4-6 mph West winds will be at daybreak.  Once the swell another 10 hours, it should be around 100 miles North of us, and the winds coming around to West by sometime after Midnight or 1 AM.

Tropical Storm Kate update for Tuesday morning swell at 3 PM.  Kate has the perfect position for us, showing about 50-100 miles North of us for the Tuesday morning swell, and 300 plus miles due East.  As you know, when a hurricane or tropical storm is passing by parallel to our coast, the winds turn offshore for us when it has passed us by around 100 miles + or – North of us.

Tropical-Storm-Kate-at-1pm-11-09-15-Wunderground-tracking-for-Tuesday-swell-compliments of Wunderground.com

So this is why the winds should be blowing offshore all day, unlike Florida’s normal teaser wind charts 🙂  Here’s the storm as of 1 PM reading at Weatherunderground for the 11/09/2015 reading.  And don’t forget, we have 4 animated weather radar and hurricane tracking charts on Johnson Avenue Surfers.  Once the storm gets within a few hundred miles of us; the page on our site is a drop down menu link under the “Radar-wind-surfbreaks” called “Hurricane Tracking …” and that link to our 4 storm tracking charts on Johnson Avenue Surfers is here: https://j-avenue-surfers.com/radar-wind-surfbreaks/radar-satellite-for-storm-tracking-from-merritt-island-florida-serving-the-entire-east-coast-and-brevard-county/

The wunderground.com link is here:

Do you remember the “Hercules Swell” last year? Did you miss the Belharra, France, 50-70 foot face surf video from last year?  Incredible, perfect and massive 🙂  Video below:

This wind swell has a pretty wide Fetch, and as of last night at 10 PM, the 120 went from 4.3 feet at 9 seconds to 6 feet at 11 seconds by 4 am this morning.  So this baby is part ground swell.

It is looking chest to head high on Tuesday !  Winds look offshore straight west (3-5 mph at daybreak) for the most part from daybreak until at least early afternoon.  The tide ain’t so hot at daybreak, so it looks like it might be safe to stall your paddle out time a bit, to let the tide start it’s high to mid-low time at around around 9:30 (high is 6:37 am for Satellite Beach)

On Wednesday and maybe Thursday, the swell drops in size quite a bit, but should provide some thigh to waist high fun at the right tides and if you choose your wind time wisely 🙂

I’ll share more later to confirm wind for Tuesday morning.


Check out the video below of the incredible 10-20 foot stand up barrells in Puerto Escondido with Natxo Gonzalez, a 19 year old that caught the biggest barrells of his life 🙂

Thursday morning surf should be waist high and glassy in Satellite Beach with SW winds at daybreak turning SSW by 2 or 3 am and SW at daybreak, maybe until 10 or 11 am.  Then by noon it turns back SE.  The Cape may be rideable, but the Pier should be with thigh high to waist high sets.

Friday mornng should also be glass, maybe a little smaller.


Do we need to blow off work Thursday?  No 🙂 It is just a wind swell, not a groundswell.  But the last 3.5 foot at 8 second windswell I caught by 2nd light 2 1/2 weeks ago was 60-100 yard glassy rides with workable walls (Longboard, yes) in the thigh to rib high size.  So hopefully we’ll get lucky.  Thursday morning should be thigh to waist high glass at the Pier, and maybe some rib high sets in Satellite Beach.  Winds look like they will have a couple hours of SW winds in the 5-8mph range mid-morning.  Then turning South to SE by 11 or noon.  Wednesday night I’ll have a more accurate wind report !

Friday morning should have some smaller leftovers with similar conditions as Thursday.

Check out this awesome video below.  I haven’t ever seen Outer Reef in Hawaii this big.  Waimea, yeah, Jaws, well of course, but Outer Reef?

Keala Kennelly at Outer Reef – 2015 Billabong Ride of the Year Entry – XXL Big Wave Awards

What should Thursday bring?  See the Video of the 2nd big day (smaller than the day before), of the big Nor-easter we had December 11th, in Satellite Beach down below!

The models show 7-7.5 feet at 13 seconds which means, 8 to 12 foot faces, possibly plus, in Satellite Beach.  If the winds are low, as Weather.com says they should be at daybreak, then the swell should fully come in.  If they are hard offshore, then as we saw the delay with Gonzalo and a few other swells, they can take an extra day to come in, or get blown apart a bit.

Wednesday will have some size kicking in with some very strong NNW winds switching North as the size builds thru the day, but I shall wait for Thursday, when it’s 48 in the morning, LOL 🙂

Thursday morning should be 6-8 foot faces at the Pier with bigger sets, and 8-12 foot faces in Satellite Beach with bigger sets.  Winds show offshore, West winds around 4-6 mph, and increasing all day, up to 20 plus mph, so get out early! (4rth day of the models have said this, and when the models hold up for 3 or 4 days, they usually materialize)

Friday looks like strong North winds, still huge, and maybe blowing offshore NNW to NW later in the day.

Saturday looks rib to chest high and offshore and lots of fun.

The video below is from the 2nd biggest day of the 7 day Northeast swell we had the 1st and 2nd week of December.  This video was shot 12/11/2014, around 10 Am to 12 Pm.  The soundtrack is from a band called “Guerrilla Jazz”, from Maui, Hawaii.  The song is called “One Day We’ll Be Gone”. Billy Kemper, a big wave surfer in Hawaii, has a cousin or relative in the band.  Four or so years ago, this video below mine, was done with Laird Hamilton mentoring Billy, along with Ian Walsh.

 
 


Third day straight, Monday’s model looks chest to shoulder high with my guess head high plus drops in the morning, till maybe noon.  Then just a few inches smaller. 

Could be fairly glassy too, mostly down south because of SSW to maybe SW winds, but looking more 8-12 mph SSW winds. 

Saturday just plain overhead big chop with those times at the pier where it has an illusive clean look too it for an hour or so.

Sunday afternoon, at Playalinda could be hard hard offshore wind with 1 to 3 foot overhead faces.  More side chop to slight onshore for the Cape to Minuteman.  A little cleaner down south.

Video below, from 2015 Billabong XXL Ride of the Year Entry clip at Jaws, Maui.   Grant ‘Twiggy” Baker from South Africa on a nice perfect medium huge Jaws face and a mega long ride 🙂

 

Get excited folks, waves coming!

Oldwaverider


More later, but Sunday morning could bring some fun waves.  Waist to chest high, and right now, Weather.com says SW winds turning SSW by noon on Sunday.

I was browsing videos of the Unheard of Perfect and huge swell of Summer of 2012 Cloudbreak, Figi, and the footage of instead back door massive barrels blew my mind. Absolutely amazing footage!


When does Edouard provide the first great Surf Day?  Today marks the 3rd day that Wednesday will be big and offshore winds in the morning.  What does big mean.  The models for Hurricane Edouard show 5 feet at 15 seconds between 6 & 9 AM Wednesday morning.  Note: Hurricane Leslie, was a 4.5 feet at 13 second period swell.  Quite a bit less powerful than Edouard so far.  See the rest of Forecast below Surf photo.  At the bottom of this post is the path of Hurricane Edouard, an image from Channel 13 news Hurricane Tracking.

Below is a photo my friend Mike Melito took of Hurricane Leslie :

Hurricane Leslie at RC's, September 8th, 2012, photo by Mike Melito.  Swell size: 4.5 feet at 13 seconds.

So what does the Forecast for Wednesday thru Saturday look like for Hurricane Edouard?

Wednesday is the peak of the swell, with 5 feet at 15 seconds most of the day.  Size 5-7 foot swell, produces 2 to 5 foot overhead waves.  West winds at 8 to 12 mph, and turns onshore by early afternoon.

Thursday swell size, 4-6 feet early, and 3-5 feet by 10 AM.  Should be overhead to 2 foot overhead plus in Satellite Beach, with offshore winds , but only for a few ours in the morning.

Friday swell size, 2-4 foot, so it should be waist to chest high and even bigger sets.  It may be offshore, but it’s still too far to confirm what direction.

Hurricane-Edouard-Ch13-printscreen-09-13-14-532PM